Raceman
Raceman: Foam sealant is usually good to use for this. Cut away the excess once it has dried, then you can finish with a latex filler before you finally paint or whatever you want to do.
1 reply · 1,0k views
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orparn: http://www.byggstommar.se/
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cederbusch
cederbusch: Ok, that sounds doable. Thanks for the reply.
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Niclas Jonsson: If you want to tear down nicely, you unscrew the plasterboards. You can easily find the screw heads with a strong magnet.
2 replies · 1,2k views
Caspár
Caspár: [citat] Spacer rings can be purchased at the nearest hardware store.
6 replies · 2,3k views
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Jobo123: [citat] Drainage has not been performed on the house as it is recommended not to be done on this house. It is built in such a way that you risk damaging the natural drainage system if you go in and dig (according to the inspector). I recall that the moisture measurement was at 12 in the floor. The floor is about 0.5 meters below ground. Talked to Beckers today and he said that we don't need to
37 replies · 6,3k views
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Titan123: I was thinking of adding wainscoting to a wall in the children's room but don't want to spend a fortune on buying pre-made panels like those sold at places like Byggmax (I have a tight budget). Has anyone done it by using masonite boards and molding on the wall that is then painted white? How did it turn out?
0 replies · 3,0k views
nimhed
nimhed: A third option is limträ. I'm indecisive again.
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sammi: Tried drilling into polycarbonate a bit quite difficult. Will use it as router templates for handheld router with copying ring. Wood wispher on the web probably uses ready-made templates in different variants. Could there be someone in Sweden who sells such things?
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rebmic: Hello! I am wondering if anyone can help me with what the tolerances according to AMA are for a masonry inner wall? I have a general contract but the painting contract is separate, so we will have an inspection at the handover between my painter and the general contractor responsible for the masonry. In the contract, it states that the walls must meet the requirements according to AMA/BBR and be
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Jan-Å: The joists you place on the lecablocks are the load-bearing beams, and you should have a maximum of 2 m between each leca in all directions where other leca are placed. On top of the rows with load-bearing beams, you lay joists which, in my case, were 60 cm between centers, and then decking on top of that. Just like wanegardh, I used 28x120 decking; there are thinner options, but I do not
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byggare henke: now you learned something new. heard skumglas when I was in Norway on a road construction
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mr_bygg: The most incomprehensible thing is probably that there is such a big difference in the step height between the stairs if it was the same step height before the renovation. That's likely what contributes greatly to the stairs feeling odd to walk in, and not the step height itself. Have more staircases been renovated, and if so, is there the same difference in step height in these? That a step
7 replies · 3,2k views
Ola78
Ola78: Split-level houses are usually considered to have a basement, and I can imagine that you have a wooden joist floor. I'm guessing the dimension is 220 mm thick. It could also be an EW joist floor, but I don't know what the thickness of that would be. Calling Myresjöhus and asking them if they have any information about what joists they used when your house was built could also be an idea. I think
1 reply · 3,5k views
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kvistarn2: There is a "concrete" veranda on the house with a balcony standing on it, it is in poor condition and where one of the balcony posts stands, the slab on top has cracked and sunk a few millimeters maybe, obviously I have to fix this somehow but I'm not quite sure how, one idea was to screw two sturdy beams to the side of the posts, then lift them with a jack, and then cast a new concrete slab on
0 replies · 1,6k views
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_bystrom_
_bystrom_: Of course it can be done, it's probably mainly your own craftsmanship that sets the limits. You could make the doors from scratch, but that might be a bit overkill for sensible people - unlike me... :S Another option is to buy only the door panels and construct the sliding tracks yourself. It's mainly the height of the doors that might be a challenge with that method - 2500mm is hefty for doors.
1 reply · 1,8k views
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Perrka: Yep, I will not do the work myself. I just want to keep track of what I order and what I get. I want to have the construction somewhat clear to me before I apply for a building permit and request bids.
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Peter_K: Wondering a bit if we should skip the extension since we actually don't need the space. The roof needs to be renovated anyway, and we don't want a flat roof again, but perhaps something like this, possibly with beveled sides (hipped roof). Opinions?
20 replies · 16,9k views
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pajsen: a quick paint sketch.
9 replies · 1,8k views
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9 replies · 1,8k views
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Perrka: Cellulose-based insulation is said to have significantly better soundproofing properties than mineral wool. Check with the suppliers if it could be an option. (Warmcel, Ekofiber etc)
5 replies · 1,2k views
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lillle22: [citat] What wasn't clear was that it is a two-family house where you can hear quite clearly when people walk and what they say. Looking at how it's done in new apartment buildings, they seem to use a lot more material as far as I can tell. But you don't have unlimited space, so all tips are welcome.
2 replies · 1,9k views
Alfredo
Alfredo: [citat] Then there's also the rumor that it might hurt if an upper floor falls on your head...:wow:
9 replies · 2,3k views
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Milkshaken
Milkshaken: Actually, it's a bit strange that they aren't available in longer lengths in more places.... Many moldings I've seen that have been finger-jointed.... Can basically be made as long as you want then.....
13 replies · 19,9k views
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egge: Well, it doesn't seem like it hurts to glue, so I'll keep doing it. It's not like huge amounts are used ;)
12 replies · 11,3k views
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Eld: The chimney is slip-cast in two of the flue pipes and has stainless steel pipe in the third one. However, the chimney sweep still required rendering on the outside.
10 replies · 11,7k views
Ola78
Ola78: If it is a 1-story house, you should be able to see a possible steel beam if you go up to the attic, but if it is a 1.5-story house you are living in, the beam is located in the house's intermediate floor, and then it becomes immediately more difficult to see if it is the solution I wrote about.
4 replies · 3,9k views
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Hubbe2: you might have hit a stud, I would have loosened an electrical box and checked, or inserted the needle in another place as well. No paintings or anything to hang on the wall? Then you can clearly see if there's something behind.
4 replies · 1,5k views
saturnus
saturnus: I think Paul commutes.....between Pattaya and Phuket, to get the best out of life. Phuket (Patong Beach) is kind of like walking straight into heaven.
13 replies · 3,2k views
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Majjijann: Also found the latest drawing available for the house. Help?!
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cederbusch
cederbusch: No, of course. It remains to be seen what impression he gives with the proposal then. I have some old drawings of the house. Or actually more like sketches from a time when they were working on the pipes in the house, and it is clear that the upper floor consisted of a large hallway, a side attic on the entire north side (the side without a balcony), and a room. The bathroom then seemed to have
13 replies · 2,8k views
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