Building Materials and Construction Technology
steppen7: Yep, I solved it in the hard but somewhat quicker way. I have a move-in deadline. Now there's a bit of delightful chaos in the garage again... :( After even more consideration, I think that I myself have contributed a lot of moisture. I've been working and breathing heavily in there and probably drank a liter of water each time, while not having any ventilation other than some openings at the
Mats: I can only agree with tyresö. Now, I am an electrical engineer and not in construction, but I see some questions around side forces, etc., so definitely a designer on this. The larger construction companies have and they should be able to get a hit or tips if you try with construction engineers in the yellow pages, for example.
byggare henke: what should the plaster be applied to? it's possible to plaster on mexitegel, but when the builder can't trust the underlying construction, something else must be done. if the builder is serious, they want you to have the best and for it to last. now with all the blogging and forums, they need to do the best for the customer if they want to last in the long run.
MartinTR: The ceiling should cover approximately 2000x2500mm.
dunken: On some steps, the carpet is "half-loose," and the carpet does not cover the entire step, so the surface is not even.
Grillen: I had completely missed that. So you can keep an eye out there. Hmm 39kr/m2 was a really good price, especially since I need between 76 - 80sqm :) I might take a trip there to check it out anyway.
JanneSjo: I was thinking of using regular door panels, 2 pieces, each 72 cm wide and 204 cm high - I already have 2 ceiling rails of this type. The bottom bracket can't be used as a guide on one door since it moves more than a door width. The doors will be parallel and in the open position will slide to the left, which makes the opening a total of 136 cm. When closed, one door almost moves 2 door widths to
Relaxia: [citat] Smart! That sounds like a pretty good solution to me. I know that the long sides can be easily detached and reassembled. The short ends can be knocked out from the side (Had to do that upstairs on one occasion. Not fun dropping the pry bar on a newly laid floor :() If I lay the floor after securing the baseplates, it won't be too complicated. Lay the plank to be cut over the baseplate and
itkonsult: http://www.lyxbo.se/cellplasthus/index16.asp?S=index16.asp Was here on the forum somewhere, same house.
J.B.: Use lightweight concrete plugs that are double expanding, they usually hold.
byggare henke: well, you fix_kalle. preferably lime plaster on lime plaster. it becomes too hard with plaster if you’re lucky it will hold
Tyresö: [citat] In winter or summer, it doesn't move - it's only when the ground frost goes away that it will move - wait until spring, and then you'll see it move even more. But it should be possible to dig around the stairs and put in some steel beams underneath and lift the stairs with jacks or a winch on a steel frame. After that, it should be possible to redo the groundwork and lift the stairs into
Eld: An access hatch should be at least 30*40cm, then it's up to you how comfortable/uncomfortable you want the descent to the basement...
Mats: Then one must not forget that there is quite a significant difference between Umeå and, for example, Skåne when it comes to how much energy is needed.
Hvdv: It was kind of as suspected then, silly to take a chance when you want to keep the upstairs up there. We are not so fixed on the height as we have a total ceiling height of 2.50, the ceiling there now shall be removed and then there will still be spotlights etc., so the ceiling height can be a bit lower. Who should you contact to get such a job done, is a carpenter enough, or should you also
MrWalker82: That part I can handle :-) how do you seal the vent channel afterwards? The collar must seal against the drum, right?
byggare henke: yeah with good blades like that. diamond blades. can be used in reinforcement too (takes a bit longer than metal blades).
Majjijann: For the sake of cultural history, we need passionate people like you. Far too many cultural buildings of this kind are disappearing. Whether it's in the best possible location is another matter. But there's a place for everything. If the roof is intact and the floors inside the windows aren't too bad, it shouldn't be too much of a concern. As someone else mentioned, the wind can blow straight
Amador: Thank you for all the answers. Let's see how I proceed now. :)
pebj_: I have almost decided not to complicate things and therefore to make a white-painted trellis that extends from floor to ceiling with supports and possibly also a top piece in oak. I have experimented a bit with the dimensions of the slats themselves and it will probably be a square 40x40mm that will be rounded with the router somewhat. The gap between the slats seems to have a maximum of 10cm if
Nimajneb: [citat] Why not try it yourself... Installing interior paneling is like building with Lego, and a carpenter can probably do 2-3 meters of wall per hour. Paneling costs from 100kr/m2 and up (quality and waste dependent) Alternatively, you could wallpaper instead of paneling
prototypen: It's clear that there is some tinkering with the kontraprofil, but the body should be tormented, picture from my office. The screws are not yet painted over. The next project will probably be hörnklossar. Protte
ivanm: Hello! Go to a well-stocked hardware store, there are many that have a "bolt bar," a shelf with all sorts of screws, in bulk. A nice surface is usually found on stainless steel screws, which can sometimes look slightly brushed and even matte. Regards
Mats: If it's regular 13 mm gypsum, I would use double gypsum if you have plenty of boards. With metal expanders, you can hang at least 30 kilos per screw, so it takes really heavy heavy items before it becomes a problem. 3-4 screws and you can hang up most things. If it's heavier, then you should try to hit a stud in that case.
Jan-Å: If the house is on rock, pillars should work with posts up to the load-bearing beam, or you can cast the piers all the way up, max 2 m between piers I've been taught. I'm not an expert on foundation, but I would have suggested the following solution to my house carpenter. Dig down to the rock, drill 3 holes per pier to attach rebar, build molds (or use ready-made paper tubes) to cast piers c/c 60
Ola78: [citat] This screw is made for gypsum, wood, and mineral boards outdoors http://www.hilti.se/holse/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=sv&nodeId=-54031