Building Materials and Construction Technology
Glufsglufs: It can be frustrating not to have spoken with the board and then break other apartments' ventilation. The same question may have arisen from someone else but was rejected after investigation because the walls are not strong enough. What if those living above/below get the same idea and don't bother to talk to the board and the wall weakens so much that it cracks/settles. Anyway, if you create a
Yrrol: In my future bathroom, I will have to build an extra wall in one corner because there are sewer pipes and other things going up to the second floor. At first, I thought about making some neat little compartments/shelves in this wall where one could place a plant or shampoo bottles... But... now I'm considering if it wouldn't be cool to build in a fish aquarium instead, in some watertight way...
KarinC: That wasn't so bad. Looked a bit at the underside, it seems to be stuck solid, almost like it's cemented in place. Might not even be possible to remove it in one piece? How much does a new one in marble cost, or even better something else, preferably a slightly darker type of stone. Tips are welcome :)
SBH: two hours at byggmax. nice lumber if you want to build something with round shapes. order package from beijer, they get return on 10-15 rules big difference.
kia2: No replies. Hmmm. Anyway, I thought I'd share what I've done. I stopped by a building supply store and asked some questions there. I was recommended 45 x 45 studs. But he didn't think I should have treated ones since it's on a glazed balcony. I was recommended untreated wood - and then he said you could treat the wood afterwards. For horizontal lumber, I was recommended paneling. Unfortunately,
Helioz: Depends on the lifespan you want from the lumber. Råspånt can handle it but will gray quite quickly and look dull, but I would guess it will last at least 5-10 years, just make sure it doesn't rest against any concrete surface and that all water can drain off. Also, increase to 22x95 so it lasts longer. If you go with råspånt, glue the boards together with outdoor wood glue; otherwise, they
Fröberg: Hello, I am planning to build a deck as soon as the snow and frost leave the ground. I am considering having one or more sail shades. How do I create sturdy anchor points in the ground that can support a sail of 15-20 sqm? I have rented an excavator for next weekend for various groundwork and to dig holes for the posts. It will likely require something substantial in the ground, what should I do?
mindz: Yep, that's exactly what I meant, thanks for that ...going to be a lot of counting :)
JeRo: There, then maybe I should do as you suggest, can't swear that my acquaintance has a Nobel prize in carpentry. //JeRo
Emilestjernlof: Hello! I'm working on an apartment renovation where I'm faced with the decision to insert a kind of insert, where you can then connect a mechanical fan that can blow out the warm air and thereby heat the whole apartment very quickly and very efficiently. HOWEVER, it is catastrophically ugly compared to a normal brick open fireplace. And you are limited to the manufacturer when it comes to size,
Stefan Bengtsson: [citat] I experience the same. However, I use the centering tools that came with the hole cutters to successfully measure to the center in the boxes. Of course, it's just as good to make your own centering gadgets; the idea is to measure to the center of the box.
Immobil: Polyethylene is not easy to glue, but this should work: 3M Scotch-Weld 90 Hi-Strength Adhesive The perfect glue for plastics (including polyethylene and polypropylene) to wood, metal, and many other materials. Very suitable for bonding high-pressure laminates to tables, cabinets, and shelves. High initial and final strength. Fast-drying. Temperature resistant up to 71 °C Coverage:
jonatannn: One option is this as well. Does anyone know where to buy these in Gothenburg? http://7stera.se/prod.htm
krr: Thank you for the response! May I ask what the startup price was? I have seen prices ranging from 1000-3000 kr just for the manufacturing of a new profile steel :(
mycke_nu: No general errors as I said. Attach the OSB with a few screws and then screw on the gypsum with longer screws through the OSB into the studs.
lajsiiwan: Follow what norrbottenstorpet wrote. At work, we always follow BKR's guidelines and always use moisture-resistant gypsum board in bathrooms.
Enk Projektet: In metal it doesn't work well, but in old holes in gypsum, leca, lightweight concrete, siporex and similar materials they are excellent. If you've hit right in the metal stud, it might work with drywall anchors (molly) but it's not certain. If you can move it in any direction, I think it's easier/better.
jeppeknaster: If there hasn't been a beam above when there have been windows, I don't see why you would need one if you're not widening more and just cutting downward. Additionally, you don't have the same load on a gable as on a long side. On a gable, you can normally make openings without reinforcement (at least on wooden houses with wooden facades). Now, I'm not a pro, so please wait until someone more
Ralf56: I have checked as best as I can and it seems completely fine. I plan to screw up the panel with screws short enough that they don't perforate the sheet metal, just the frame. It will probably take a week to remove the sheet metal.
Mr_T: OK, I realize that and am inclined to back out... One factor is that we are going to redo the roof in the spring with new paneling and so on, so there will be an opportunity to "access" from above if that can make any difference?
Jan-Å: Yes, a picture is probably necessary if any answer other than a guess is to be made. But until then, I guess the following, yes they are load-bearing because it seems ridiculously over-dimensioned to place 2 150x150 to be able to build an altar. Probably they found something behind the tiled stove that had to be concealed, hence the altar. Or perhaps religious people lived there before you who
gaia: found Mapei Antique and discovered information in English stating that it is cement-free... so that's good. There is a product from the Antique series used for a thin layer (5mm) and then another product to plaster over the first one. The barrier is supposed to bind chloride salts (in Venice?) and prevent them from penetrating. I guess it's hydraulic lime + additives like reinforcing fibers and
Helioz: A tip could be to place foderklossar above the tile baseboard to create a more natural "start" for the door trim.
Jan-Å: [citat] No, suddenly underfloor heating is not so interesting. Can only wish you good luck and hope that the operation goes well for you and for mother and child with the birth!
magnushasselqvist: Hello and thank you That was fast !!! Best regards Magnus
Ola78: [citat] Yes, I can probably agree with you about the paint. If the chimney gets that hot, I highly doubt that 10 cm to combustible materials would suffice and the paint probably wouldn't hold either in that case. It was my chimney sweep who mentioned this, but I haven't noticed anything on our chimney at least, and it's painted with regular plaster paint. Go ahead and call the chimney sweep, as