Hello,
Brand new to the forum, so have mercy
We are considering (possibly) buying a house built in 1929 and completely renovated in the 50s, since which nothing has been done, at least not documented. The need for renovation is, of course, enormous.
We are both novices with limited experience in renovation (framed a few walls and plastered concrete walls) and construction techniques (especially in older houses).
The knowledge we currently have about the house is that it's made with plank walls with masonite on and tension fabric in the ceiling, according to the realtor, and parquet or cork flooring. Our assessment is that the house is very straight. The electrical wiring was redone in the 50s.
We plan to keep the parquet, everything else we want to change/paint.
We have thousands of questions, but I thought I'd start with a few simple ones, mainly concerning the living room;
- What exactly do plank walls mean (our idea is horizontal planks nailed to horizontal studs) is plank=råspont?
- Is plasterboard preferred on both walls and ceiling?
- Should we frame out from the wall and ceiling?
- Should the masonite be removed from the walls, or can plasterboards be placed directly on the masonite?
- What thickness should be used for the plasterboards?
- Does it make a difference if it's an internal or external wall (in the method)?
- In what order should one renovate? Start with the ceiling, then move to walls, and finally floors?
- Should one take the opportunity to redo the electrical wiring when you're going to change/renovate the surfaces anyway?
We hope someone takes the time to answer these noob questions, would be very grateful!
Best regards, HER
Also noticed that the post ended up in the wrong section, maybe some kind mod can fix it?
Brand new to the forum, so have mercy
We are considering (possibly) buying a house built in 1929 and completely renovated in the 50s, since which nothing has been done, at least not documented. The need for renovation is, of course, enormous.
We are both novices with limited experience in renovation (framed a few walls and plastered concrete walls) and construction techniques (especially in older houses).
The knowledge we currently have about the house is that it's made with plank walls with masonite on and tension fabric in the ceiling, according to the realtor, and parquet or cork flooring. Our assessment is that the house is very straight. The electrical wiring was redone in the 50s.
We plan to keep the parquet, everything else we want to change/paint.
We have thousands of questions, but I thought I'd start with a few simple ones, mainly concerning the living room;
- What exactly do plank walls mean (our idea is horizontal planks nailed to horizontal studs) is plank=råspont?
- Is plasterboard preferred on both walls and ceiling?
- Should we frame out from the wall and ceiling?
- Should the masonite be removed from the walls, or can plasterboards be placed directly on the masonite?
- What thickness should be used for the plasterboards?
- Does it make a difference if it's an internal or external wall (in the method)?
- In what order should one renovate? Start with the ceiling, then move to walls, and finally floors?
- Should one take the opportunity to redo the electrical wiring when you're going to change/renovate the surfaces anyway?
We hope someone takes the time to answer these noob questions, would be very grateful!
Best regards, HER
Also noticed that the post ended up in the wrong section, maybe some kind mod can fix it?
Last edited:
Plank walls can consist of standing tongue-and-groove two or three-inch timber with one or more layers of rough sheathing lying horizontally. In Nynäshamn, it usually is, from inside to out:
Beaded tongue-and-groove standing
Rough sheathing lying
Plank standing
Rough sheathing lying
Reed and moss with chicken wire and plaster.
Possibly a bit of moss and standing cover strip panel on the outermost layer.
No insulation. No vapor barrier. Possibly a wind barrier behind the outer panel.
Very stable.. surprisingly good insulating ability. It's usually not profitable to add extra insulation to the walls of such a house. There are risks when moisture migration through the wall is slowed down.
The roof is a completely different matter. Most of the heat leaks upwards.
Image search for Surteraset. The houses in that landslide were built with plank walls. Compare with Tuveraset where there were modern frame houses. Compared to the Surte houses, the Tuve remnants look like... just remnants. The Surte houses are largely intact.
As long as the roof is tight and the foundation is drained, such a frame can withstand almost anything. Even standing unheated in winter. Risk of local damage at windows and doors.
Do I need to say that the first thing you should do is check the roof and foundation. Everything else can be done whenever you want.
Best regards/Findus
Beaded tongue-and-groove standing
Rough sheathing lying
Plank standing
Rough sheathing lying
Reed and moss with chicken wire and plaster.
Possibly a bit of moss and standing cover strip panel on the outermost layer.
No insulation. No vapor barrier. Possibly a wind barrier behind the outer panel.
Very stable.. surprisingly good insulating ability. It's usually not profitable to add extra insulation to the walls of such a house. There are risks when moisture migration through the wall is slowed down.
The roof is a completely different matter. Most of the heat leaks upwards.
Image search for Surteraset. The houses in that landslide were built with plank walls. Compare with Tuveraset where there were modern frame houses. Compared to the Surte houses, the Tuve remnants look like... just remnants. The Surte houses are largely intact.
As long as the roof is tight and the foundation is drained, such a frame can withstand almost anything. Even standing unheated in winter. Risk of local damage at windows and doors.
Do I need to say that the first thing you should do is check the roof and foundation. Everything else can be done whenever you want.
Best regards/Findus
Interior walls in older houses can very well also be plank walls, that's how it is in our house and many neighbors in the area. Standing two-inch planks and horizontal rough boards on both sides. Quite stable. As the carpenters said at our place when we removed a bit of wall (note - A BIT, think carefully before you proceed with an open-plan concept just like everyone else...).
No problem at all attaching drywall to the inside, it's not diffusion-tight.
Read more at:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/65910-slaepper-gips-genom-fukt.html
and
http://www.google.se/url?sa=t&sourc...6Z2mAw&usg=AFQjCNFAIYz1n6iTp0xMqEzQ0yDbd3T9fg
/A
No problem at all attaching drywall to the inside, it's not diffusion-tight.
Read more at:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/65910-slaepper-gips-genom-fukt.html
and
http://www.google.se/url?sa=t&sourc...6Z2mAw&usg=AFQjCNFAIYz1n6iTp0xMqEzQ0yDbd3T9fg
/A
A document that more people should read!Alko said:
For once, the content seems correct.
I think again of the many romanticized advertising statements made by some manufacturers.