Building Materials and Construction Technology
byggare henke: you can try cutting them on the sheet. but they will probably become flimsy then. do not forget water in the tub
santos: Use platon's system with mat and 20 or 40mm celloplast, and ventilated baseboards. I have it myself in a room and have no problems with any potential moisture migration in the walls.
nilspelle: A bit far to travel just from Jämtland to Rundvik for _one_ sheet of masonite :)
Jan-Å: I have always kept an old door when renovating the bathrooms in our house projects, then I have screwed/glued a new oak threshold on top of the old one. Yes, it creates quite a substantial edge to step over :)
Mikael_L: When it comes to soundproofing, TS should of course install (at least) double plasterboard. And a high-quality plasterboard molly can support almost 100kg in load, right?
kia2: Had some construction workers fixing our bathroom. They left behind Byggelement TEBO 12 mm and Montagebricka TEBO. Now I'm planning to use these in the kitchen where I'm retiling. Here are images/descriptions of both byggelement and montagebrickor. [bild]
fredtiger: I have bought a newly built house with approximately 5 linear meters of interior walls constructed in the simplest manner with single gypsum + 70mm stud + single gypsum. My idea is to reinforce these walls with a sheet (OSB/plywood) and then gypsum. The walls are only plastered and painted so not particularly arduous, but only part of the wall is an interior wall, and the rest is an exterior
Stew: [citat] Yes, you might be right. I'll skip the plastic entirely. Now I have a ventilated floor, with dual channel fans blowing air in. I hope this can help keep the moisture at bay.
styrman1: I and probably 50% of all homebuyers reject flat roofs, which should negatively affect the value in a future sale.
Ola78: Measure the thickness of your wall, subtract 26mm for the drywall. The measurement you get is what you need for the studs you will use to build the wall. Place one of these studs in each corner of the opening and drill holes through them into the wall. Insert plugs and then screw them in place. Below these, attach a new stud horizontally by nailing it into the end grain of the studs. Then add
Farzan: Hempularen, you mean floor masonite, right? It's about 6 mm thick and "tongue-and-groove" or should I call it rebated at the edges so that the boards can be glued overlapping. You can lay floor masonite completely floating (only glued to itself) with the plastic mat glued on. It stays stable enough from the weight of the masonite + mat. However, it isn't extremely strong. In a room in our house
anaitis: Where you live, I would only consider stainless steel.
Mikael_L: [citat] That doesn't sound like a particularly large pillar load. It should be possible to transfer it through the center wall and then to the slab without too much trouble. That's what I think ...
Mats: Then some material like feed, trim floor, etc. will be needed to fill in the "hole" with.
bax: Time to ask a glazier. I once sat in a sauna, built on a balcony. It had glass panes in the floor so you could see straight down, 4m, it was quite cool.
eestere: Built the floor as follows: Floor joists (c/c
Sofie_A: It seems like testing with silicone might be the way to go; it's about steps, so putting pieces under a threshold unfortunately won't work, otherwise, it could have been a good idea. It's dark green as well, so if you fill the holes with something, it won't be very noticeable, as long as you find something that really stays in the hole. There was a stair lift installed in the stairs, which is why
Dalbotant: I haven't done it myself, but I have tiles on the chimney in my house. The house is from '32, but I'm not sure exactly when the tiles were installed. I guess they came later. Anyway, it IS cracked in the middle right behind the stove, but on the other hand, it's cracked in the grout two meters up from the floor too... It's cracked a little here and there, I can't see any direct pattern concerning
rebmic: Hello again. Thanks for the responses! I have talked to the builder and he says that it's just moisture in one or two sections where the windows will be placed and that it will be removed later. The moisture hasn't spread anywhere else according to him. He said that before he put the plastic on the walls, he removed all the insulation to ensure there was no moisture. There was a little frost in
mandus: Saw off the bottom piece and nail a skurkloss with any profile. Alt. Plastic Padding +profilmall.
bo137: a one-and-a-half-story house with decks both upstairs and downstairs, under the lower deck there is a cellar that is always frost-free but maintains about 10 degrees in winter above the cellar there is the vault + 12 cm ground mat on top of that 5-6 cm cast floor, on which something will be laid. my plan is 20 mm foam insulation with floating particleboard floor, step dampener, and on top a
Jocke69: Yes, the height of the ceiling will be lowered, but I have accounted for that in the calculations. The house is so old that there is no standard height in this house anyway :)
Jan-Å: Worth it? Depends on how you calculate it. Yes, it is definitely worth breaking up the basement floor and installing underfloor heating as far as I see it. I’ve installed waterborne heating in about half of the basement where we live and shower. But speaking in terms of comfort, economically it’s more doubtful, likely costs more than just paying for the heating as it is today. In a basement
cederbusch: Ola: The crux is that I need to follow MVK's industry regulations, and it seems that wood-based materials are not okay. Although it's a bit vaguely expressed. Noseone/pbengtsson: Tiling won't be relevant in the future either for various reasons. One reason is that it's questionable if painted waterproofing is approved as waterproofing under tiles. I have a completely separate thread for the
Matti_75: There should be plastic between wood-concrete. They could have put the plastic there before they poured, how hard can it be?
rickardg: I have sketched a bit on a house that has many recurring parts that I want to build (only one house). Considering several comments in this thread about the mass production advantages not being so great for villas, I'm wondering if I was wrong on that point. Do the gains from mass production become so small that the disadvantages of small elements with lots of angles, etc., take over? I have drawn
BGW: We are going to close up an old doorway in the kitchen, but wise from my previous mistakes, I thought I'd seek advice before doing so. The wall is plastered with gypsum or similar, then painted, and it is completely smooth. Now I plan to put studs in the doorway and screw on gypsum boards. How should I proceed to prevent the joints from cracking between the gypsum board and the wall? Should I
Ola78: You are nailing cleats to the rafters on the house's rafters where the smaller rafters for the porch should be. Not a great picture but it can explain a little at least.
bmx: As I said, I usually space the entire floor with about 19 mm between each piece first. This way, you don't have to think too much when spacing. Then you can plan the loops and saw, etc. When I've done it this way, the loops end up in every 3rd space or something. And the plates (I've used Roth) end up edge to edge with a few millimeters in between. Don't forget the noggings at the ends. They need
Matti_75: No, it is a rule that is built-in. A completely independent 45x120 can only handle 530kg, calculated on the same conditions as above. That is, a buckling length of 2.3m.