Building Materials and Construction Technology
Onkel Heini: OK, Dr Fozz, you were right - thank you! However, I think you need to be careful if the drill hole happens to be so close to the metal stud's sidewall that the molly cannot expand.
Matti_75: The easiest way is to attach the profile with these here. Mark at c/c 300mm on the ceiling, hold up the profile, drill through the profile up into the ceiling, nail it in place.
Gabbe1: Perhaps, the façade plug only expands at the front. But it probably wouldn't hurt to use 180 or 200mm long ones. Then you should check if façade plugs are also suitable for leca. I used 160mm long ones for 70mm foam and 22mm battens, worked excellently.
macaroni: Cheesus: I have an H-beam measuring 180x170, which should suffice, considering what you have in your barn. Mycke-nu: Rust is obviously not fun, but I can rust-treat, paint, and then encase the iron beam with the same wood I have for the balcony.
Lindgrenski: We ran 45x70 all the way. The bathroom is only 2.5m, so no major expense, no need to attach to the ceiling or to frame on the short sides either. Installed white ceiling panels, purchased at Coop.
End: I interpret it as a secondary load-bearing structure since the walls in the middle are thinner than the outer walls. If this is indeed a correct drawing, and if the yellow circles correspond to the size of the opening, I don't think there should be any problem adding openings there. Round openings are obviously more challenging than square ones, but with a reciprocating saw and the right blade,
tånni: I got my building permit approved last year. Leca/concrete blocks are "non-combustible" and okay for this classification.
Ekand: I read and read but missed that information. I will, of course, double-check this, but I assume it works as I thought. Thanks, Ola
Anders_Nilsson: Yes, that's what I thought, thanks for the info and examples! /Anders
twtwtw: I am considering building a horizontal fence, i.e., horizontal slats. 3 horizontal slats with dimensions 28*145 with a gap of 10 cm from the ground and 15 cm between each slat. Total height 85 cm. The posts are 90 cm. What is the maximum center-to-center spacing I can have for it to be stable? Regarding child safety, the 10 cm gap requirement means that the horizontal slats will only be 75 cm
hakaner: Anchor compound & threaded rod work if you want to hang heavier items... http://www.google.se/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fischersverige.se%2FResourceImage.aspx%3Fraid%3D26018&rct=j&q=ankarmassa%20fischer&ei=WIulTaiGG8TFswbg2riFBw&usg=AFQjCNEJmLM0uKJy7IBMj-rxZuBqR4eqpg
PeterB: Well, I will verify everything with a constructor, but I was hoping there would be someone knowledgeable here who could give an indication if I'm on the right track... I'm working on window quotes and need to know approximately how much space is available to play with after all the beams and pillars have taken their place.
haavard: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/loesvirke-timmerhus/152164-takstolar-plywood-istaellet-foer-spikningsplat.html#post1130479
Millox: I think I've figured out where the moisture is coming from... [bild] The beam is against the outer wall of the old section, and the mold originates from the joint between the plates. [bild] [bild] I haven't found any other place where the moisture is coming from, including under the lecan, so it's probably coming from here. So I wonder: Is there something I can smear in the joint to seal it? Is
Daniel78: [citat] I lifted off our boiler at about 300kg like this: http://www.akkk.se/huset/flying/index.htm http://www.akkk.se/huset/hole/index.htm Can't remember if it was 45*95 or 45*120, wood is stronger than you think :)
Andropov: Hello! I have replaced the entire roof on the house, a 1.5-story villa (45 degrees). Ventilation up to the ridge and two side vents in the attic area. There is a 5cm air gap between the knee wall/underroof and the attic area. The underroof extends just under a meter from the house body. The question now, as I'm about to nail up the underroof at the eaves, is how large an air gap should I have
nattugglan11: Thank you for the response. Is it more appropriate to use regular square tubing (steel) as a threshold instead of aluminum?
monsterbyggare: Is there any construction guide available online regarding air gap (external wall with wooden panels) for horizontal and vertical panels? Many build completely without air gap both below and above on the outer wall. They seal the entire wall with battens, no insect mesh or air gap. Around windows, there should be an air gap above if you want to do it correctly, right? Thanks
sepani: Hi, I have set up a fence with pressure-treated wood and I'm looking for a "top plate" for it. The fence is about 110 mm wide. Does anyone know if such a thing, for example in black or zinc, is available to buy "ready-made"? I also have an angle. If it isn't available ready-made, do you have tips on what to do? It feels quite expensive to hire a tinsmith for this. But maybe you can order it? The
Jan-Å: [citat] Exactly, You don't have a flat bar in the concrete, do you?? That's never been the case with my garages, so I cast in an angle iron that we bought from the scrap dealer. What SBH links to I usually just call an angle, but of course, it's also an angle iron, though not the kind you embed in the garage floor at the gate ;)
snuttjulle: Isn't it better to attach the railing to studs or ensure there are noggings to attach the railing to? In the house I grew up in, one of the brackets was in the "wrong" place so it pulled out the plaster one too many times. It ended with a large heart-shaped towel hanger being made on the other side of the wall which was a bathroom, and the railing then had a stable base to be attached to.
Enk Projektet: [citat] I agree with GustavW on everything here except regarding Nivell flooring because it's a more expensive solution that won't be as solid and good as concrete. Check with a structural engineer if you're unsure. If you don't have a good contact, you can send me a PM.
MaZtoR: [citat] it's only in zone 1 that it's not allowed in bathrooms anymore. zone 2 it is allowed.
Logitech: I sealed with foam sealant as I am going to level with self-leveling compound, so it doesn't get under the stud. I hope I didn't mess up now...
jerk: Place both beams overlapping as you want them to be mounted. Take a pencil and draw on the top and bottom along both beams. Where the lines cross each other, you should saw both beams, and then you'll have a perfect transition with the correct angle.
linusab: Thanks for the help. The ventilation ducts are probably unfortunately a bit too wide. Do you know if plastex has any wholesaler in the Stockholm area? At Bauhaus, they have a variety of profiles in metal and plastic. However, no square ones in plastic, only square profiles in Alu and steel.
gadu^: As Helioz says, winter glue is everywhere. For example http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/Prod/PID-18004.aspx I got the tip from a carpenter to use winter glue when I was laying chipboard flooring in the attic that we converted into a bedroom.
anaitis: With a very high probability, those walls are not load-bearing.
vafan: Hello, The difference you get when measuring is the moisture gradient in the piece, meaning that the piece hasn't reached its equilibrium moisture content yet. If it's a 45mm thick piece you are measuring, you should measure 30 mm in, which is 2/3 of the thickness. If you measure just below the surface of the piece, it is likely about 3% drier. This is not a problem or defect with the piece; it's