Building Materials and Construction Technology
vicvolta: Thanks for your posts! Have also talked to the chimney sweep again. So now we're on track! :D
MalinW: There are also Granab floors that operate on the same principle but have steel beams instead of wooden beams. We thought that felt better.
SnickarNicke: Here are some pictures of how it looked before I tore it down. Temporary support until snickarNicke has time [bild] A bit thin perhaps [bild] Load-bearing? [bild] This is how good it looked when I removed an overliggare It was so rotten that all the nails remained :O [bild]
Jante: Take a trip to a sheet metal worker and check what a galvanized sheet would cost in the right measurements with folded edges and glue it onto double chipboards. Easy to clean and should last a while. Best regards, Jante
Ola78: Thank you so much, now I don't have to search. I've been quite busy, so I haven't had time to check it out since you first suggested it. It's a lot sometimes:cool:
Gallimatias: If they are large holes, as you write, then patch up with plaster. The type of plaster depends on what was used previously. If the holes aren't larger than a putty knife can cover, I would buy a bag of repair compound that works great for filling. Make sure to vacuum what needs to be repaired.
jeppeknaster: I saw that Byggmax had updated their foam plastic products significantly and now they reportedly also sell BEWI's building systems. http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/Prod/Isolering/Cellplast/Default.aspx
SBH: invest in masonite and be careful when securing it. also check if the mortar works outdoors. check if you might need to reinforce
Haegermeister: [citat] Most likely there weren't many mice there, but in the rest of the house, there were some traces. Maybe as a precaution, one can treat the cellplast with something the mice don't like? Whatever that might be... But now we're constructing with cellplast in this case so that's how it will be.
jeppeknaster: Significantly simpler and cheaper than the "original" http://www.til-tak.no/no/til-tak-light2
pysen78: Thanks everyone for the tips! Then I'll probably cut up the parquet after all, my partner and I have thought about it a bit too, and concluded that the wall should probably stay for good, so the parquet becomes secondary. Molly plug in the ceiling then, and plugs in the adjoining walls. There will also be a door hole, so I want to be on the safe side. Thanks again, this allows me to calmly plan
Mittbygg: [citat] It will be very interesting to follow, please post a CAD image when you start getting it right. I installed CAD yesterday but gave up quite quickly as it was too advanced for me. I'll stick with pencil and paper as usual :). I'm attaching an image of a roof that is closest to what I've been thinking myself. Kind regards
Looo: Then the only question left is what becomes bad. And how does it show? It's good to have a manufacturing date and some idea of how old it can be allowed to get. For example, different glues and sealants in cartridges that "quite soon" become impossible to get out of the cartridge, even unopened. Well-packed cement-based products last much longer. Then again, it's not good for the bags to be left
Matti_75: I haven't used that particular product, but I have used Thonic's other inspection hatches and think they're good.
Carolin: The house insulation turned out well, and we chose Serporoc's white silicate paint, which was supposed to be the only one that truly breathes, as other silicate paints contain binders. However, we have a problem; down by the ground where the snow lay against the wall, the paint has come off, and the plaster has cracked and come loose from the foundation. Why? We have drained the basement, and it
mycke_nu: We are planning to build a larger porch (about 3x3 m2) located in an inner corner where two sections of the house meet. Since it's facing northeast and a window will be under the roof, we want to make it as bright as possible. Therefore, I'm considering a roof made of Lexan (polycarbonate), which I assume can be bought in sheet form and cut to size yourself. The question now is how the sheets
Ola78: A steam brake adapts to the humidity in the air, which is why it is better suited for spaces that are not constantly heated, but also in regular buildings. Go and Google Isover Vario, and you will find more information about it.
Ved?: My chimney stands by the outer wall, it's where the outer wall meets the chimney.
noone70: Yes, I'm wondering that too... Perhaps an air gap is needed? Does anyone know?
d_j: [citat] On my soapstone stove, it's no problem to remove all the stones. It usually works that way on all if you need to replace stones or move the stove.
gaia: [citat] ach yes, it's the double spindles that are wrong? .... :) The handrail was attached to them so it looked like they were needed :) gaia
Polygam: ANSWER: I have talked to several tile setters now; It is not uncommon to use the same grout in the bathroom as on the patio, provided it is a good grout, a good brand should withstand outdoor climate. So, the fine/expensive/good brands should handle this, apparently. All grouts let through some water, the good ones withstand freezing temperatures, bad ones (like mine) or old ones (+5 - 10 years)
Alexandersson_1: Hello! I will also have a slab of 15 x 8 m, where one part will be a carport and the other part a workshop. I mainly think that there will be some heat spill to the carport slab. I don't understand why the slab (carport part) would be lifted up? Will you have insulation under the carport part? I will. To avoid any difference when the foam compresses. Then, hopefully, there will be positive
gaia: [citat] actually easy to get it perfect and nice but if you're chasing production costs, it's cheaper with a straight plank gaia
Bezt: Diffusion-open are almost all matte paints (except plastic paint) if I have understood correctly, and ceiling paint is usually matte so it should be quite open, but it's humidity that those paints are not so good with, and it results in blisters and paint peeling. If you don't have the energy to sandblast, just paint on and deal with the problem later if it arises.
nisslars: I'm going to replace the panel on a house built in 1973. The house is a two-story townhouse. The panel is divided between the floors with a sheet metal, and under the sheet metal is a covered patio. The upper and lower panels are thus separated, and it is the upper one that needs to be replaced. My problem is that the z-panel is 105 mm wide, and when I searched, I could only find 95, 120, and 145
petersson79: If he adjusts them, he will probably adjust them upwards...
petersson79: Do everything yourself or outsource? But I would guess somewhere around 800-990k is likely... There is so much you don't think about that comes into play... And if the house is that old, it's probably time to replace all the electrical as well, maybe an additional 100k roughly... So around a million sounds reasonable maybe...