Level interior wall - challenges

[AndBygg]

Hello,

I am planning to build an interior wall between the living room (currently L-shaped) and a future office/guest room. The floor is parquet flooring and the ceiling is a wooden beam. One of the walls I will attach the frame to is load-bearing and stable, but the other is a gypsum board (I assume) with poor "support."

In the living room area, we will create a TV corner against the new wall, and on the office/guest room side of the wall, we plan to build in wardrobes. We want to avoid having too much sound transmitted into the office/guest room.

1. How should I best attach the frame to the gypsum board? Ideally, I wouldn't want to tear down that wall to attach a frame "behind." What do the experts think about using expansion nails and possibly angle brackets against the ceiling beam?

2. How should I best attach the frame to the parquet? I would prefer not to cause too much damage to the parquet in case I want to remove the wall later. However, I also don't want the wall to start moving.

3. Do you think 93 mm wall would be sufficient to make it "quiet"? Renovation gypsum (6mm) + Stud (70 mm) + OSB (11mm) + Gypsum (6 mm). We will also have wardrobes in between.

Grateful for comments!

//A

 

[FredrikStr]

If you are hesitant about possibly wanting to remove the wall later, there is the option with "demolishable" and "reconstructable" walls with steel studs...
http://www.norgips.se/file?dnl=SE%2Fprojektering%2Fvaggar_stalstomme%2FGenerella_anvisningar.pdf

 

[Tallbarr]

1. Molly screw very good for problems like yours

2. No sensible answer, I would probably ignore the parquet myself, might as well redo it if I want to take down the wall, I assume you're not planning to take it down like next week just because you can

3. Put 45mm or 70mm insulation in the wall as well, it's sufficient as soundproofing

 

[AndBygg]

1. Molly screws are really great for problems like yours

2. No sensible answer, I myself would probably not worry about the flooring, I'll just have to redo it if I want to take down the wall, I assume you're not planning to take it down like next week just because you can

3. Add 45mm or 70mm insulation in the wall as well, it's enough for soundproofing

Thanks for the answers! How long are molly plugs? It has to go through the stud and then through the drywall.

//A

 

[Enk Projektet]

On the floor, double-sided tape is enough, don't overdo it with molly; regular plugs work fine if it's just a standard interior wall.

 

[Stefan Bengtsson]

Thanks for the responses! How long are molly plugs? It needs to go through the stud and then through the drywall.

//A

If the screw in the molly plug isn't long enough, you can replace it with a threaded rod. They usually are a meter long, that should be enough

 

[AndBygg]

On the floor, double-sided tape is sufficient; don't overdo it with molly, a regular plug works well if it's just a regular inner wall.

Thanks for the answer! This feels a bit flimsy to me... Double-sided tape, isn't that most suitable for metal studs? I'm planning to build with wooden studs.

 

[Jan-Å]

What lateral forces are you planning to apply to the wall? A wall stands where it stands, I would say you don't need anything at all against the parquet, but personally, I would have used double-sided tape, which I also did on the wall I built in the basement.
Wooden stud on laminate flooring, doesn't move the slightest bit.

There are other threads about soundproofing where several who give an expert impression write that insulation is not particularly effective and that it's better with double plasterboard in that case.
In our wall, which is supposed to keep the teenagers' noise inside their room, we have insulation to avoid a resonance box + double plasterboard and a proper door, i.e., an exterior storage door and sealing strips, which is surprisingly effective.

 

[AndBygg]

What lateral forces do you plan to apply to the wall? A wall stands where it stands, I would say you don't need anything at all against the parquet, but I would personally use double-sided tape, which is what I did on the wall I built in the basement.
Wood frame on laminate floor, doesn't move at all.

There are other threads about soundproofing where several who give an expert impression write that insulation is not particularly effective, and that double plasterboard is better in that case.
In our wall that is supposed to keep the teenagers' noise inside their room, we have insulation to avoid a resonance box + double plasterboard, and a proper door, i.e., a storage door for outdoor use and sealing strips, which is surprisingly effective.

Hi! I'm not so worried about the lateral forces but more about the parquet not being able to float if I place a 'heavy' wall and cabinets on it. I'm now considering cutting the parquet so that the new wall doesn't stand on the parquet. But then you start to wonder what it looks like under the parquet...

 

[Jan-Å]

Under the parquet, there should either be a concrete slab/framing if it's that kind of house, or a chipboard floor or wood planks if it’s a wooden house. So if you don't have underfloor heating, it’s of course a solution to screw the wall there after sawing off the parquet. Floating floors are tricky; we have a cheap laminate floor that reacted quite a lot last summer, resulting in ridges popping up in some places when there wasn't enough room between the walls.