Building Materials and Construction Technology
Sofie_A: It seems like testing with silicone might be the way to go; it's about steps, so putting pieces under a threshold unfortunately won't work, otherwise, it could have been a good idea. It's dark green as well, so if you fill the holes with something, it won't be very noticeable, as long as you find something that really stays in the hole. There was a stair lift installed in the stairs, which is why
Dalbotant: I haven't done it myself, but I have tiles on the chimney in my house. The house is from '32, but I'm not sure exactly when the tiles were installed. I guess they came later. Anyway, it IS cracked in the middle right behind the stove, but on the other hand, it's cracked in the grout two meters up from the floor too... It's cracked a little here and there, I can't see any direct pattern concerning
rebmic: Hello again. Thanks for the responses! I have talked to the builder and he says that it's just moisture in one or two sections where the windows will be placed and that it will be removed later. The moisture hasn't spread anywhere else according to him. He said that before he put the plastic on the walls, he removed all the insulation to ensure there was no moisture. There was a little frost in
mandus: Saw off the bottom piece and nail a skurkloss with any profile. Alt. Plastic Padding +profilmall.
bo137: a one-and-a-half-story house with decks both upstairs and downstairs, under the lower deck there is a cellar that is always frost-free but maintains about 10 degrees in winter above the cellar there is the vault + 12 cm ground mat on top of that 5-6 cm cast floor, on which something will be laid. my plan is 20 mm foam insulation with floating particleboard floor, step dampener, and on top a
Jocke69: Yes, the height of the ceiling will be lowered, but I have accounted for that in the calculations. The house is so old that there is no standard height in this house anyway :)
Jan-Å: Worth it? Depends on how you calculate it. Yes, it is definitely worth breaking up the basement floor and installing underfloor heating as far as I see it. I’ve installed waterborne heating in about half of the basement where we live and shower. But speaking in terms of comfort, economically it’s more doubtful, likely costs more than just paying for the heating as it is today. In a basement
cederbusch: Ola: The crux is that I need to follow MVK's industry regulations, and it seems that wood-based materials are not okay. Although it's a bit vaguely expressed. Noseone/pbengtsson: Tiling won't be relevant in the future either for various reasons. One reason is that it's questionable if painted waterproofing is approved as waterproofing under tiles. I have a completely separate thread for the
Matti_75: There should be plastic between wood-concrete. They could have put the plastic there before they poured, how hard can it be?
rickardg: I have sketched a bit on a house that has many recurring parts that I want to build (only one house). Considering several comments in this thread about the mass production advantages not being so great for villas, I'm wondering if I was wrong on that point. Do the gains from mass production become so small that the disadvantages of small elements with lots of angles, etc., take over? I have drawn
BGW: We are going to close up an old doorway in the kitchen, but wise from my previous mistakes, I thought I'd seek advice before doing so. The wall is plastered with gypsum or similar, then painted, and it is completely smooth. Now I plan to put studs in the doorway and screw on gypsum boards. How should I proceed to prevent the joints from cracking between the gypsum board and the wall? Should I
Ola78: You are nailing cleats to the rafters on the house's rafters where the smaller rafters for the porch should be. Not a great picture but it can explain a little at least.
bmx: As I said, I usually space the entire floor with about 19 mm between each piece first. This way, you don't have to think too much when spacing. Then you can plan the loops and saw, etc. When I've done it this way, the loops end up in every 3rd space or something. And the plates (I've used Roth) end up edge to edge with a few millimeters in between. Don't forget the noggings at the ends. They need
Matti_75: No, it is a rule that is built-in. A completely independent 45x120 can only handle 530kg, calculated on the same conditions as above. That is, a buckling length of 2.3m.
Kurtivan: Absolutely, that would work if you find them in suitable dimensions. Will check at the hardware store :)
noone70: Found a link to someone who has done exactly what I was planning to do http://www.byggahus.se/forum/grund-markarbeten/91746-graeva-ur-kaellare.html
husola: Hello, everyone. We are in the process of renovating our apartment and one detail that would be fun is to install a so-called decorative fireplace that burns liquid fuel in a wall that divides two rooms. The wall extends about 2 meters at an angle with another wall, meaning the wall forms a T with another wall. The proposal we have received is to cut out a horizontal U-shape on the wall (viewed
andina: I've been considering Silka boards for my (log) house project (wet areas, etc.). Does anyone have practical experience: is it okay to leave it untreated (that is, how does it look after a few years)? is it very difficult to work with (do you have to saw it all the way through or is a score and then a snap enough)? how is the dust when sawing, drilling, or processing in general? what is the
byggare henke: you can make it like an "H" except with double horizontal lines (2tum2=45'45).
menhir: I'm considering insulating and furnishing the upstairs in the barn so that a heated office can be set up there. The immediate question is if, and if so, where in the intermediate floor should the vapor barrier be placed? The barn will be cooler than the heated upstairs, but on the other hand, animals do emit some moisture... Or should I opt for some so-called environmentally friendly insulation
KalleByggare: [citat] Hello again all builders, we have now been promised compensation for all the extra costs we incurred. Everything seems to be working out and we're satisfied with this, now we can recommend Foam System, the house is turning out really well.d^_^b
KalleByggare: [citat] Hi again all builders, we have now been promised compensation for the extra costs we had. Everything seems to be resolving and we are satisfied with this, now we can recommend Foam System, the house turns out really well. d^_^b
kalubah: It will probably be PL400 + I'll be ready with a few screws. When I've screwed 6mm before, it gets quite ugly and the plaster bulges around the screw hole. Should one use drywall screws for hard plaster, or what is recommended?
tomaxxxx: I am building a home theater in a house with a crawl space. I plan to build a podium directly on the concrete slab and insulate it. The concrete slab is currently uninsulated, is an air gap needed, or can the mineral wool be placed directly against the concrete? /Tomas
limpan78: Hello! I have knocked down a partition wall in the basement to create a larger storage room. To remove traces of the operation, I need to do some plastering on the walls that will remain. How do I find out what kind of plaster I need? The house is from '67 and the basement's interior walls are made of blåbetong. The existing plaster is light beige and it adhered quite well.
MathiasS: Foam does not withstand sunlight (well, some variants do), but otherwise it seems completely stable. I started using foam about ten years ago and I can still inspect some of these spots. They look exactly like when I applied the foam, albeit somewhat darker on the surface. In sunlight, however, it becomes brittle and falls apart into small pieces.
Ola78: Take a look at this link and you might get some tips, search the page with the word snedtak to find it quickly http://hvilaro.blogspot.com/2008/07/gering-taklist.html
Helioz: Can you attach them with joist hangers to the walls around the ceiling instead? I don't think you can solve this with glue at all actually, it's hard to see how it could hold up in the long run. Also dangerous even if you get it to stick since you never know when the glue might fail, so you can never trust it. Rent, for example, a Hilti PS20 from Cramo and you should be able to locate the pipes
Roundup: I have done something similar with gypsum plaster, which fills well and is easy to work with. I used some kind of primer with sand grains or something in it, and plaster mesh. Gypsum becomes chalk-white, so I haven't painted it yet, but when I do, it will be with a paint specifically for plaster that breathes. I avoid plastic components because it gets really hot above the stove, and I have
BG.s: It is very possible the reason... even if only air comes in, it is humid.... it's not enough for it to be warm... it also needs to be ventilated out.... a couple of holes... high and low... PS. I don't like automatic air vents DS.