Building Materials and Construction Technology
sinuslinus: Install skirting boards 1.5-2 cm thick that protrude 10 mm over the wall. Then apply new plaster in the hole.
sturnus: As with wooden beams, steel beams also have different properties depending on how they are arranged vertically/horizontally.
ETQ: It definitely depends on the type of concrete you need. Furthermore, it has increased quite a bit. But you can probably get something for 1500, then add shipping, unloading, and VAT on top. I would generally suggest that if you budget 3000kr/m3 including everything, you won't be shocked when the invoice arrives. Depending on circumstances, it might be a bit cheaper, but probably not too much more
BirgitS: It's probably impossible for anyone in the forum to know how much load is on the wall. That's why you need a structural engineer to review drawings and check on-site to be able to make a sizing calculation. A good board would not have approved the opening without seeing a report from a structural engineer. It is the association that will have problems if the floor above starts to sag in a few
Julistormen: [citat] Should the base be hard? Placed on the grass now, chipped on both sides, went better!
Messier1994: [citat] If I become prime minister, it would easily be in the top 5 list of actions I would take immediately.
Vulcanus: I'm working on fixing up the boiler room and have damage in the wall that I want to fix before painting. What's the best way to do this?
Fjonken: [citat] Work with layer upon layer, moisten the brick beforehand so it grips better.
z_bumbi: [citat] If you're going to hoist, you'll definitely anchor better than counterweights that balance? A loosely hanging load that's balanced is the precursor to a catapult. Support underneath and four solid ground anchors/counterweights with two slings/chains over the boom is the minimum I would use. I guess you could look at how a stump puller is constructed and base it on that, but make sure you
mojjen: I have read somewhere that plywood should no longer have a 3mm joint but be glued together. Does anyone know if this is true? Or is the 3mm joint still applicable? Is there a difference between OSB and Plywood?? The thing is, I have used plywood because I want maximum stability for a sliding door. To avoid a gypsum joint just above the sliding door, I will need to place a 120 gypsum over the
Henningelvis: [citat] I understand. Then it seems to be a later extension. I also looked more closely at one of the pictures, and it actually looks like the old wallpaper goes behind the new wall. I would start by removing a small section at the edge there to see what the new wall consists of. Is it plaster and wattle? Some kind of boards directly against the wall? Studs and chipboard?
MarkusTo: Hello, I'm in the process of building a garage that is partially underground. The part that is underground, I will insulate the roof with PIR and then apply waterproofing. Now to the question. I have a 1% slope on the roof and, of course, I want good waterproofing, but at the same time, I don't want to feel robbed. With overhang down on the walls, it would need to be 5x8m. What suggestions do you
GoForIt: Check with the manufacturer's support. In the cases I have been, there has been plastic mat gone.
wallejr: Yes, I also have a thought to attach to the existing deck, but I'm pondering how to best do that in this case. Paving stones could also be an option that works for getting low fastening. The drainage was newly done last fall with new pipes, etc., in connection with the digging before they laid the gravel.
Coolman: Move out the basement window a bit?
Lappa123: Need to repair the lower part of my foundation wall. It is completely deteriorated in some places after water has run along the bottom for many years. The plan is to dig away a small section of the wall at a time, just over a block or cinder block wide. Then pour a small pad and after that, build up with wall blocks or cinder blocks. What happens between the existing wall and the blocks? Can I
sturnus: I think that applying "flytspackel" on the whole will repair both the level of the floor and also improve the heat transfer from the heating system.
Matti_75: Everything depends on how you envision it will look when you're done. Should the glulam beam be visible or clad? Depending on that, there are different methods. If it should be visible, your suggestion is good. Just make sure to tape tightly with the right tape for the purpose. If it's to be clad, you can wrap it downwards, so to speak.
surris: It will always be colder at the wall/ceiling connection. If you mean covering the sawdust with insulation so it blocks the air gap, that's probably not a good idea. And just replacing a small part of the sawdust with insulation doesn't seem like a great idea either. I think it's relatively safe to insulate the entire attic as long as you don't add too much insulation and you use hygroscopic
Testarn: [citat] Thanks! It brightened my morning anyway. 👍
Stefan N: Iron, [citat] like this. [MEDIA=instagram]DHF0VB9oYCd[/MEDIA]
Workingclasshero: Hello, your solution sounds completely unreasonable, but not impossible. You need to talk to a designer. My guess is that you need to anchor your intended glulam beams down into the foundation both in the corners and far into the walls, the corners for compression and the walls for tension. /W
