Building Materials and Construction Technology
Grussladd: [citat] Okay, thank you very much for the quick response. Then I can breathe a little easier :)
Mr Greenbee: [citat] I chose to build a shelf with a thin metal sheet, then vermiculite boards, and on them firebrick. Then I will cast a concrete countertop that instead fits into the square that the firebrick forms. In other words, I avoided placing firebrick on concrete, as I didn't want to risk cracks. Turned out really well!
plan-g: Bumping the thread. I have the same question. Did you get any clarity?
fribygg: [citat] Sure, if the gate is heavy, you should ideally cast both gate posts together underground to ensure the gate doesn't hang crooked after a couple of years.
Matti_75: Etc is just crap to use on floors. It can't handle any load and resists moisture very poorly.
Testarn: Plywood that is 2700 mm and 3050 mm is a standard product at Moelven, for example, so a building supply store should be able to order it for you even if it's not on the shelf. They will charge extra for it - don't know anyone who has it in stock.
nordvest: [citat] Thank you Mats 👍 There are 4 standing old beams that I need to attach the long/carrying 195s to. Is it enough with standing extra posts on two of them? That is, the ones that will be built in at the far end of the room. I would prefer to avoid the posts in the middle-standing beams, as they will be visible in the room. See pictures
g.kraft: Yes, the plywood board is simply screwed onto the existing surface so you have something sturdy to screw the mount into. The board can be smaller than the TV so it is hidden. As mentioned, primarily to adjust according to the studs or to get more screw points against drywall.
Testarn: On our front door, the metal sheet has been inserted into the groove on the aluminum track and then straight down, but we have the foundation wall flush with the frame/threshold and then we have a wooden staircase outside, so there is a couple of centimeters gap where it goes down. In your case, it should be possible to do something similar, I think.
maah: Images always help to provide a good response. But your plan sounds good. Place studs next to pipes and cables and make a notch in the boards. Seal with latex caulk afterwards. It's enough to glue a metal track to the ceiling and have a good fit on the standing studs. I have a wall built like that in my basement but the opposite way, glued to the floor and screwed to the ceiling.
Kardan79: [citat] Is it because TS has FAR too little insulation outside the installation layer? EDIT - I ASSUMED THE WALLS TODAY ARE NOT UNINSULATED. Every site I've looked at that shows how an external wall should be constructed shows the vapor barrier on the outside (not the room side) of the installation layer. I've thought it was about a compromise - full vapor barrier = good, vapor barrier a bit into
mxlmxlm: It seems that the boards that were previously screwed onto the standing posts are not load-bearing. The intermediate floor is actually inserted into the posts. That is, it does not rest on the boards or anything similar.
Messier1994: Just so I don't mislead anyone — it was MDF under the veneer after all. Carried in a bunch of regular acoustic panels with ribs and these panels at the same time and they felt just as floppy and the MDF is painted black — but it's MDF and it shouldn't be a problem to cut these with a sharp 45-degree edge. 😅
Testarn: If you call a mason, you'll just have a mental breakdown when it's time to pay the invoice. :P Otherwise, if you want to do it yourself, it’s about starting by checking that the stones are in place and then using a lime mortar that is a bit more flexible than cement mortar so it doesn't crack when the chimney heats up/cools down. Water the bricks and joints thoroughly before you start applying
turbo100: [citat] Yep, it's a more modern version but not an open fireplace. Talked to different people and most suggest tile adhesive, but someone mentioned heat-resistant silicone (which has been used before). I'm a bit worried that tile adhesive might fill/build more than silicone, I can't remove the old mortar (the one that has come off), so I'm leaning towards risking it with silicone... partly
Eld: If it is not rotten and you decide to repair (and not demolish), you should knock away the really loose parts and hollows. Then water thoroughly and apply new lime plaster. Be careful not to apply too thick layers. Cement plaster does not work. It is too hard and will come off from the substrate.
prontoberra: [citat] Thanks, Tommi! Went out and bought plasterboard, suitable beam, and filler; tomorrow's project will be to do as you described :) I thought I would do as you wrote, googled around after writing, but wanted to make sure there wasn't another alternative that I felt more comfortable with, but the way you described it didn't seem rocket science advanced. Very kind of you to reply, and nice not
Anonymiserad 737586: [citat] Can anyone offer some wise words? There became a 5cm air gap and insulation with wind protection closest to the underlayer.
Tugge10: [citat] Mm, but I'm not going to remove the whole thing, just sand the arch-shaped parts so that it doesn't go downward but is straight at the top. So it becomes a fully straight frame. If you look at this picture, it's like arches on the sides.
Flygplats_Teknikern: [citat] So, what was the choice, and how was the result?? 😊
evoline: [citat] Thanks. I'll probably buy baseboard screws and this PL200 and hope it goes well. https://www.bauhaus.se/montagelim-illbruck-pl200-powerflex-310ml?queryID=8bc74fb0dde87eac64ba6fa3696acb28&objectID=530475&indexName=nordic_production_sv_products Is there any difference between these 2 latex sealants, a big price difference? https://www.bauhaus.se/latexfog-beckers-vit-300-ml
StoraO: How did your installation end up? Did you put it in the window, does it work? I have the same situation, a shower in the basement without a fan, 0.5-meter stone walls but a window that looks like yours.
Jesper mångsysslare: [citat] Looks really good, no rot damage, just to build again. Great that there was sill paper so nothing was resting on the concrete blocks, dry and poison-free it looks.
Mattis Audar: A suggestion I received is that HEA 160 gives 7.5 mm deflection and HEA 180 gives 5.2 mm over 6 meters with "normal" loading. To use HEA 120, five beams are needed to achieve a similar deflection. Can anyone confirm if this sounds reasonable?
mxjolle: I would first suspect possible moisture, sills, and possible glue that can react and emit a horse/stable-like smell, but in a summer house, it can be a bit difficult as mentioned. What you have is building board and we have the same in our villa. Doesn't smell but of course, it depends on if it has been exposed to smoking or similar.
fribygg: You can probably build that with 45*70mm since it only needs to support its own weight. Personally, I would choose significantly thicker dimensions because thin wood doesn't give a solid impression. Additionally, I would size it so that it's possible to put on a real roof that can withstand snow weight, since our summers are short and cool, and pergolas are better suited to places with long sunny
prontoberra: Hello, Bought new doors and installed the first one today, really happy with the appearance! However, compared to the previous doors, it seems that the mounting point on the door is slightly further in, which causes the door to be more aligned towards the hinge, creating a noticeable gap. I tried searching online for shims or spacers but can't seem to find the right ones. Can someone guide me? :)
jannice_: Hi, I'm curious to see how it went - did it work well to build in with PLATSA? Also curious about how it went painting the furniture (if you did that). Thanks!