Building Materials and Construction Technology
Hybro: Or just leave the hood on, if water isn't getting in, and add a new hood to the new object.
Maalox: [citat] Smart. I'll steal this solution. Thanks!
Skittele: [citat] Correct, wooden house. But the craftsmen's joints don't crack, only mine...
sturnus: Jag skulle sätta en arbetsbänk på hela toppen.
neo11: I have built and plastered many fireplaces. I may be able to offer advice later, but definitely do not use gypsum plaster.
Ninhow: [citat] Now I've got a nice quote from Bygma! Ordered the things and will document the project! Thank you again!
Sindbad: [citat] Hi, sorry for the late reply, not sure if you still need help. But you can see the answer to your question in my previous post above. I just used two brackets per post, which I attached to the concrete slab and the post. Mainly for stabilization, the weight of the conservatory itself keeps the post in place. It has stood for five years without any problems.
Jacob Gumpert: We ended up putting regular plaster in the hole along with the plug, let it harden and then secured it tight. Turned out good enough. It will probably last for at least another 10 years.
Nobbe_1: Looking for step caps that have broken on a ladder I bought at BAUHAUS a few years ago. BAUHAUS couldn't provide the spare part. Krause in the United Kingdom is not responding to my emails. I cannot order from Krause in Germany as a resident in Sweden because I get an error message in my cart when I try to order from them? Where do I turn? Link to the spare part/step caps
Testarn: Alright then. As you wrote, just place a temporary support about half a meter out from the post you want to replace. I would lay a plank piece on the decking to spread the load and then measure the distance to the beam. Cut a piece of lumber that is long enough to require a bit of "persuasion with a hammer" to get into place and then attach a couple of pieces of wood on the side of it as a "fork"
mexitegel: There are different variants of beklädnadssten: https://www.flisby.se/typ/stentrappor/trappbekladnad Otherwise, for example, Duracoat is popular: https://www.duracoat.se/
Daniel 109: Yes, of course a thicker slice is more flexurally stiff. But now it was about dimensional stability during moisture variations, right?
BigR: It's really difficult to say anything without a construction description. If you're replacing the sill from the inside, you'll obviously need to replace the bathroom, so that's an easy decision. Replacing it from the outside might work, but there's a risk of puncturing the waterproofing. I would take that chance any time. If the bathroom has been renovated, I wouldn't assume the sill has been
Grillen: [citat] Thanks for the detailed response. Then it will have to wait until next time.
Jaegermeister: [citat] You’re absolutely right. They are well dimensioned for taking the downwards force, but the horizontal? Not so obvious to me.
sturnus: I've never had a problem cutting with my own cordless saw. I've always swept up the sawdust if they don't have a place to cut. Karl Hedin has an electric miter saw for customers.
JoKalle: 120x45 blocks against wall plate (we have elevated wall plate), staple up the wind barrier and then screw the boards... The wall plate builds up a bit, so the boards really only cover the opening towards the eave. Removed, I think it was about 45cm from a board, so what remains (about 200x120), plus a whole board (240x120) is enough to create an air gap for a "compartment". The air gap boards
maah: It depends a bit on what we are seeing in the picture. Is the hole taken in a wall? If that's the case, just frame up around the hole just like when you're making a hole for a window.
Daniel Johnsson: [citat] Thank you for the answer. Have a nice evening!
Caroline_lu: [citat] Thanks! I'll contact a plumber then... there are additional elements in the room. Not visible in the picture as the sofa is in the way...
Andreas9090: [citat] I agree with you and thus choose to forgo the plasterboards for that reason. I will go with fiber cement board instead and place vents between each stud space :)
maah: You need to find a roof truss and insert the trapezoidal screw into it. I would never have dared to insert it into just the panel or battens.
jonaserik: [citat] As mentioned, patch with new mortar. But there will be a difference in shade between the old and new patch, and it can be hard to get right; the seam will always be visible unless you perhaps fully plaster the ceiling. So, you'll need to decide what might be best, patch or new plasterboard ceiling. The simplest might be to leave the reeds in place and remove enough for a sparse panel and