Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jarlingar: And Isola probably wants to sell you fans as well.. I connected my floor with dimensioned flow to my FTX and it has worked Rolex for 8 years 👌
raubtier: I am doing a quick fix in our basement entertainment room until the day we potentially tear out the whole thing. The basement is dry and in good condition, the house has been newly drained and has new ventilation. The inspection noted during the purchase (before drainage and ventilation) that the walls are a risk construction since they are framed against the outer wall, but no alarming moisture
GrönaL: [citat] I have to settle for a fireplace and sausage skewers. It's about picking your battles.. Now I just want to make it as nice as possible. [bild]
Andy1000: So nice to read 😅 That way I don't have to argue with the builder if his words go against the experts here. On a small side note, I'm also thinking of hiring an external inspector. Does anyone have a recommendation in the Gothenburg area?
tommygunxs: [citat] ok, thanks. The old one goes straight up, however, I will likely need to tear up a wall in the living room on the second floor to access the stove. I'll get back with pictures when I have the house.
BirgitS: [citat] Probably the roof is self-supporting because it states it's trussed rafters. However, there was a period when the dimensions were a bit too weak, causing some roofs to collapse when heavy wet snow came. After that, the calculation norm changed, but I don't know when this happened. A structural engineer can check the trusses' dimensions based on the roof weight, snow zone, house width,
Prettuchaos: Have the same powder, from what it looks like in the pictures, under a wooden floor on the upper floor of a house from '72. Leveling compound seems to be the hottest suggestion, right? [bild] [bild]
topmount: I assume you want to replace them with a smooth plaster ceiling. Either there is tongue and groove underneath or sparse paneling. Then it will either be framing up for plaster or putting the plaster directly on the tongue and groove. So there is no usable ceiling underneath, you have to build it up yourself.
Bengt65: [citat] Jumping into the thread a bit. We have a house from 1927, on the lower floor there's a hall with old parquet, smooth but ugly; there's a kitchen with parquet too, smooth but ugly. Then there's a dining room and a living room with the old boards exposed. Between these rooms there was a wall that's been gone since the 60s, we saw that on newspapers lying on the floor. There's a level
JKrister: With a 60cm span, you'll be fine with 12mm, I would say. But I would definitely go "double" on the gables. Screwing plywood only into the end grain becomes too weak.
Samluc: Hello, I have a utility entrance that needs better insulation. The utility entrance is an extension of the house, with exterior walls made of brick/mortar. On the inside, they had placed insulation between thin studs, which were then covered with plastic and then plasterboard. So, the insulation was in direct contact with the plastered exterior wall, and the plastic was open both at the top and
Johan Gunverth: They also seem to be called "gänghylsa."
klaskarlsson: [citat] There are online tools: For example here Not directly for your exact scenario, but for example for an opening in a load-bearing exterior wall, which you should be able to use as an indication https://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/dimensionering/med-meny/
fribygg: [citat] It's an excellent opportunity to insulate externally, at least, if you don't do it in connection with the facade replacement, it probably won't happen.
ecb182: [citat] 3 years. The room is part of a (drained) basement. When I taped plastic on the floor before this, there was no moisture in the plastic. During parts of the year, there is naturally high humidity in the basement, but we have a dehumidifier running in the laundry room which is also in the basement.
nino: I don't think there's any danger in placing an interior wall on EPS and self-leveling compound, I recall that EPS has been used at the base of a runway, like 60-100cm EPS with a covering on top of that. Of course, there's a difference, but it's probably the self-leveling compound that will break first, not the EPS.
cpalm: I think this page gave very good concrete tips: https://www.husgrunder.com/renovera-husgrund/grava-ur-kallaren-och-isolera/ We only excavated one room. We consulted a foundation expert before we started digging under the walls and got the thumbs up - perfect ground conditions and no directly load-bearing walls, so it was trivial, which is probably not very representative. We underpinned according
Abyaby: [citat] That was very good advice. Thank you for that.
fribygg: [citat] TS seems to have a house in 6" timber, do you @heimlaga think Charlotte is on solid ground when she recommends adding insulation from the inside above?
Charlotte Andersson: Yes, you can fill with loose fill insulation. The exception is if there are any cleaning hatches on the ventilation, then these must be accessible.
Charlotte Andersson: Different types of roofing sheets have different load-bearing capacities. Here I must refer to the manufacturers' instructions to achieve a durable result.
Charlotte Andersson: Roof tiles basically have an eternal life as long as they remain intact. Even concrete roof tiles are suitable for reuse. Replacing tiles on the entire house to match an extension is more about what one finds aesthetically pleasing. If the roof has been untouched since the house was built, you should seriously consider replacing the underlay and battens on the old roof when you are planning to
S-I: [citat] Okay, should the sheet be under the plywood, or is it enough to have it behind the panel (seal between the panel and plywood?)?
Charlotte Andersson: Exhaust ducts from kitchen fans should be fire-insulated EI15, meaning they should withstand 15 minutes of fire before spreading further in the structure. To achieve this, it's necessary to fire-insulate against combustible materials, such as at the passage through the intermediate floor with, for example, rock wool insulation. (There are ready-made, mesh-covered options for this purpose.)
Charlotte Andersson: The price range can vary greatly in different parts of the country, but you can contact 2-3 practitioners in your area for a price quote.
Charlotte Andersson: You don't mention if the well is water-filled or not. If you plan to build over the well, it's important that the extension's foundational structure is designed to be self-supporting over the well since it is not made to bear the weight of a building. Even if you fill in the well, the bearing capacity is not completely guaranteed. It's also important to consider moisture issues if there is water
Charlotte Andersson: The most common floor structure in villas is a wooden joist floor. That is, load-bearing beams made of wood that absorb the forces. There are also different types of light beams (which I think you are referring to). Both types are relatively easy to work with. However, I'm not aware of the price difference, but since I rarely see light beams being used, I assume that load-bearing beams are the