Building Materials and Construction Technology
Claes Sörmland: Yes, it works, but it is not very popular today. With an NTR-A-rated post, it should last for about 50 years or so. The rot will appear right where the wood emerges from the concrete.
Kjell-Anders: [citat] I think the opposite, it's nice when the wood is dark, so I use cold-pressed linseed oil. Lasts a long time and avoids solvents, but it's not for those who want to keep the light shade🙂
Kalle91: [citat] I thought the purpose was mostly to raise the sill 10-20 cm above ground level as extra protection. But maybe it's not needed in this case. Realized that the Leca must be plastered as well? Maybe I'll go with the simple version with sill paper on the concrete, the sill on top, and then use Platon mat under the outer panel and down into the ground as extra protection. Should be more than
okaenrique: [citat] I used Silikat Grundfärg Alcro and it worked well 👍.
Testarn: Yes, you can do that. Don't forget to install insect screens so that small animals don't get in.
Viktor.J: -Marking - Rough sawing - Sand with chosen method - Plane, belt sander, orbital sander, grinding disc on angle grinder etc.
Henrik Vamos: [citat] The builders had left a bunch of pre-cut noggins that they said were to go in the ceiling. Never understood where and why, but now I get that they go between the gypsum👍
Dowser4711: 1cm difference is nothing in this context. The only occasion it *might* be noticeable to the eye is if you choose to have a floor that is striped with stripes that are less than a cm...
berteriksson: The only one I found is this, but it's very simple without any moisture barrier or anything, built directly on the ground. [MEDIA=youtube]gxnOeNdyLYQ[/MEDIA] Here is some inspiration on how to build with drip caps, although I don’t think I will saw into the facade to insert drip caps underneath. I will probably place the drip cap directly on a board. [bild] [bild] Here is some inspiration on
Testarn: A bit unclear exactly what you mean by "syll" and where it is embedded, but in our house, where there are concrete floors in the basement and first floor, they had placed wooden beams throughout the concrete where partition walls and door holes were later built. Likely to have something to attach door frames and partition walls to. In places where the wood was painted with lime or silicate paint,
Nyhusägare2: [citat] Thanks. I see that Jula has repair asphalt, might try it first along with asphalt adhesive. Thanks for the help!
cpalm: [citat] Red lead can be purchased but cannot be sold to private individuals. And for professional use, there are a lot of occupational safety restrictions. So if you find someone who "buys" the paint and then paints it yourself, you've solved both problems 🙂
Jofr1987: Hello, We are planning to build a new house with a basement, but we are a bit unsure about the basement construction. The options we are considering are as follows: Option 1: - Build with non-insulated lecablock with isodrän on the outside below ground and insulated lecablock above ground. (Read Finja bas below ground and Finja exakt above ground. Or equivalent) - Plaster inside and outside
Talisman: Thank you so much for all the great tips!
Testarn: To avoid moisture between the panel layers, I had installed battens as spacers. Then ensured there is a slight opening at the top and bottom to facilitate natural ventilation behind the new panel.
Testarn: We have similar problems, though our risers are in laminated oak. I have read a bit about what can be done, and in the past, they seemed to plane the riser into a slight arch to prevent creaking. I'm considering removing one or two risers to see if I can plane a gentle curvature and see if it helps. The challenge is that there are already screw holes, so either I fill them and drill new ones when
Dowser4711: The problem is not that the wasps are getting in through the inner ceiling. The problem is that they are getting in through the outer shell. Find out where they are coming in and seal there. For example, if there are missing nets in the vents in the attic or similar.
Phalle: [citat] Follow-up: In the two holes that became too big, I put Fisher GB. In other holes, I used nylon plugs. I didn't find any good spacers to buy, so I cut off plugs and used the hard end as a spacer. Worked very well. Thanks for all the tips!
hempularen: Instead of most screws, you can use skruvtvingar.
Kalle1978: The final result was quite alright. Some lecakulor floated up that I removed.
Myckling: It looked about the same in our attic, but during the latest fire safety inspection, the chimney sweep removed the insulation closest to the flue. Apparently, there were updated regulations where insulation and combustible materials had increased distances. That being said, I would check with your chimney sweep how close you can place the sawdust.
aabbcc: [citat] Thanks! Unfortunately, the walls are painted now, but I guess I'll have to drill a test hole and see if I get a hold with a long screw. I'll have to get some molly bolts for the parts of the wall that are drywalled.
Axiotrade: Thank you very much. That was a lot of useful information. I think I will try another product to fix this hole.
kalleovh: Hello! I am cutting in water and sewer pipes into an existing concrete slab on the ground. Originally, there are 20 cm of EPS foam as insulation under the slab, but at the beginning of the trench, the EPS has disappeared when I dug up for the pipes (see image). And along the rest of the stretch, the insulation also becomes thinner. My question is: What should I fill around the pipes with to both
Patrik Jonsson4: Removed the thresholds and they smelled moldy. Measured 33% moisture with a moisture meter in the wood. Planning to replace with plastic thresholds instead.
Rush64: Now I have a consideration, the span is 180mm too long for the floor joists according to all calculation models. One alternative is a central beam, but I am thinking about concrete slabs as support under the floor joists. The frame around will be on ground screws. What do you think about this?
RoTe: Either you integrate everything into the existing wall, or you build a new wall outside.
Derbyboy: But…. I'm thinking like z-panel or something similar. Such a panel overlaps each other and then I think it doesn't let in so much debris. Then I should be able to skip the wind barrier And then I can skip the battens.
padrecam: [citat] Build a conservatory, maintaining a good dimensioning level under 90% should be fine. Otherwise, take your idea to a local building supply store and let them calculate it for you. 😁