Or rather, how do I know that my new wall will be correct?
I was thinking of doing something like in the picture, with the spirit level I know that each 'stud' is straight up, but how do I know that they are aligned with each other?
Of course, I can take something that is reasonably long and straight and place it between the posts, but is there a better way?
I'm reviving an old thread but think it's better here (collectively) than in a new thread. I have seen how you tighten the line, I have access to a laser and I understand that I can then measure to the line, that it is then different depths and if necessary also choose a depth that will be suitable to use for the wall. But how on earth do I know that I am aligning the laser or line straight?? When I set the laser, the line can be twisted and extend sideways - even if it is leveling. I really can't figure out how to determine that the line or laser is straight. Super grateful for some clarifications from someone in here...
I'm reviving an old thread but think it's better here (collected) than in a new thread. I've seen how you tighten the string, I have access to a laser and I understand that I can then measure to the string that it's different depths and if needed also choose a depth that's suitable for the wall. But how on earth do I know that I'm aiming the laser or string straight?? When I place the laser the line can be twisted and increase diagonally to the side - even if it is self-leveling. Really don't get how to determine if the string or laser is straight. Super thankful for some clarifications from someone here...
Mount the first studs inward from both corners with a professional spirit level like Libero 2000, then tighten the mason's string really tight between these 2 mounted 3 cm up from the floor, in the middle of the wall, and a few cm from the ceiling. (use thumbtacks or similar to attach the string)
Then it's just a matter of mounting stud after stud (between the first 2) and shimming out/in to follow the mason's string's life. The wall may bend somewhat as old walls often do, but it's nothing you need to consider if you've been careful with the installation of the first 2 studs.
A laser in this case complicates things in my eyes and doesn't really belong in older buildings.
Install the first studs inward from both corners with a professional level like Libero 2000, then tightly stretch masonry string between these 2 mounted 3 cm up from the floor, in the middle of the wall, and a few cm from the ceiling. (use tacks or similar to attach the string)
Then just install stud after stud (between the first 2) and shim out/in to follow the line of the masonry string.
The wall might warp slightly as old walls often do, but it's nothing you need to worry about if you've been careful with the installation of the first 2 studs.
A laser complicates things in my opinion, and doesn't really belong in older buildings.
Best regards, Jawen
Thanks for the detailed suggestion Jawen! I can imagine that I can use the level to install the first and last stud so they become vertical individually. But how do I know if, for example, one side of the room is angled inwards or outwards so that the corner doesn't become (at least close to) 90 degrees?
I'm thinking that if I build at 45 at the start on both sides of the wall maybe one of them is a few cm further into the room? And in that case, the wall would be vertical but it wouldn't be a straight corner? It feels like there's something I'm not understanding.
If it's important for the corner to be exactly 90 degrees, you should measure the angle first (mark it on the floor or something) and then adjust the wall studs to fit. It usually takes a bit of fiddling, but once you've got the corners in place, it goes pretty quickly to set up all the studs in between.
Instead of using string, I would have placed a horizontal stud at the top and bottom between the corner studs. When I framed the kitchen a while back, I made a frame from the corner studs and an upper and lower stud, which I attached to the wall with angle brackets and adjusted gradually until the corner where the cabinets should be was correct, and the frame was vertical overall.
If it is important that the corner is exactly 90 degrees, you should first measure the angle (mark it on the floor or something) and then adjust the wall studs so that it fits. It usually involves some tinkering, but once the corners are in place, it goes quite quickly to set up all the studs in between.
Instead of a string, I would have placed a horizontal stud at the top and bottom between the corner studs. When I framed the kitchen a while back, I made a frame of the corner studs and an upper and lower stud that I attached with angle brackets to the wall and adjusted gradually until the corner that should have cabinets was correct and the frame was vertical overall.
Thank you! Now that you mention it, I remember my husband measured in some strange way what the distance would be in a triangle. But I also think that it's not really important at all for the wall to be at an angle. It might be enough to just straighten it.
Many thanks to both of you.
If it's important for the corner to be exactly 90 degrees, you should measure the angle first (mark on the floor or something) and then adjust the wall studs to fit. It usually takes a bit of work, but once you have the corners in place, it goes pretty quickly to put up all the studs in between.
Instead of using string, I would have put a horizontal stud at the top and bottom between the corner studs. When I studded the kitchen a while ago, I made a frame of the corner studs and an upper and lower stud, which I attached with angle brackets to the wall and gradually adjusted until the corner that should have cabinets was correct and the frame was vertical otherwise.
Or mount the first studs about 15cm into the wall and use angle brackets. These studs can be removed when all the wall studs are mounted, and attached in the corner after any adjustments so you have something to screw into.
If the room/wall is short or half-short, as useless writes, you can also use regular horizontal studs to follow, but often the wall's length is too long for a horizontal stud, so string becomes significantly easier.
I'm reviving an old thread but I think it's better here (collected) than in a new thread. I have seen how one tightens the string, I have access to a laser, and I understand that I can then measure to the string to see that it is different depths and if necessary, also choose a depth that is suitable for the wall. But how on earth do I know that I'm pointing the laser or string straight?? When I set the laser, the line can be tilted and increase diagonally to the side - even if it is leveling. I really can't figure out how to determine if the string or laser is straight.
Super grateful for some clarifications from someone in here...
If both stakes are straight up, then you tighten the string between them. Then you use a laser to check that you have the string at the same height on both sides. But it might be that you don't want it straight but instead want to follow the floor.
Or mount the first studs about 15cm into the wall and use angle brackets.
So insanely smart with the angle bracket!!! I love simple ideas!!! However, I have no idea if the other wall is straight, but the corner will be 90 degrees if that's what I wanted.
I've just managed to figure out that if I measure 60 cm in on both walls, the distance between those points in a triangle should be 84.85... So I can use that as a control measure.
So many great ideas for me since I have so many walls left! =).
So insanely smart with the angle iron!!! Love simple ideas!!! However, I have no idea if the other wall is straight, but the corner will be 90 degrees if that's what I wanted.
I've just managed to figure out that if I measure 60 cm in on both walls, the distance between those points in a triangle should be 84.85... So I can use that as a control measure.
So many good ideas for me who have many walls left! =).
Or the carpenter's classic based on the tape measure - 120 cm on one wall, 160 cm on the other - It should then be 200 cm between (the hypotenuse).
It's also easy to halve the numbers if the area is smaller, e.g., 60 & 80 = 100
Or remember and easily use the "345" method, e.g.,
X - 3 x 20 cm = 60
Y - 4 x 20 cm = 80
Hypotenuse - 5 x 20 cm = 100
Any measure can be used, in my example 20cm.
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MmeMim said:
useless said:
So I can use that as a control measure. 