Anyone recognize this panel?

[Bybe]

It is about 15x90mm
It has been in our attic since '83 and I am missing about 6 sq m.

Grateful for help

 

[En apelsin]

Which local sawmill can completely make more of your panel and it usually isn't particularly expensive. Bring the piece to the sawmill, and they can surely help you!

 

[jawen]

That is probably regular Bastupanel 15x90

https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/bast...17J_bot1GiGiqNdsp4u6NX5LXXmwg-vcaAnJyEALw_wcB

Best regards, Jawen

 

[Bybe]

That is probably regular Bastupanel 15x90

[link]

Best regards, Jawen

Yes, these seem to be the right dimensions, but all the modern bastupaneler I find have partially rounded edges, which mine do not have.

 

[Stefan1972]

There are almost as many panel types as there are types of saws..........Also, think about how in the past there was a saw in every village type.........If it's unusual and you need more, then you should probably know exactly where it was bought to begin with.

 

[jawen]

There are almost as many panel types as there are saw types......... Also, think about the past when there was a saw in every village kind of......... If it's unique and more is needed, one should probably know exactly where it was bought to begin with.

You are absolutely right if we are talking about the 1800s & a few years into the 1900s, but since especially the 1930s, we have some form of "standard".

Bybe:

In the past, it was much more common with both rough-sawn & straight-cut panel boards and studs.
But the industry, due to both handling & function, had to switch to more planed & slightly rounded edges.

Paint doesn't adhere to the "edge" of a 90-degree cut surface, creating too thin a layer.
Rounding also prevents splinters in the hands when working with the wood.

Virtually the only time you want a raw, unplaned surface is on exterior paneling so that the paint adheres maximally.

What are you going to build?

Best regards, Jawen

 

[Stefan1972]

You are completely right if we are talking about the 1800s and a few years into the 1900s, but since especially the 30s, we have some form of "standard."

Bybe:

In the past, it was much more common to have both unplaned and square-sawn panel boards and beams. But the industry, both due to handling and function, had to shift to more planed and slightly rounded edges.

Paint does not adhere to the "edge" of a 90-degree cutting surface; it becomes too thin a layer. The rounding also prevents getting splinters in your hands when you work with the wood.

Basically, the only time you want a raw unplaned surface is on exterior panels so the paint adheres maximally.

What are you going to build?

Best regards, Jawen

well, you might think so, but I myself bought paneling at a sawmill in the early 2000s. Both beadboard and ceiling paneling, and the latter was definitely something unique. I have never seen anything like it since, but it was cheap and suited me well at the time.

 

[jawen]

Well, you might think so, but I bought paneling from a sawmill myself in the early 2000s. Both beadboard and ceiling paneling, and the latter was definitely something unique. I've never seen anything like it since, but it was cheap and suited me at the time.

If you go to someone who has their own small sawmill (and often their own forest as well), you can of course get different things.
There was one a couple of miles from me who had their own "templates," but unfortunately very few of them remain.

Best regards, Jawen

 

[Bybe]

You are absolutely right if we're talking about the 1800s & some years into the 1900s, but since especially the 1930s, we've had some form of "standard."

Bybe:

In the past, it was much more common to have both unplaned & straight-sawn panel boards and studs.
But the industry has had to shift, both because of handling & function, to more planed & slightly rounded edges.

Paint does not adhere to the "edge" of a 90-degree cut surface, as the layer becomes too thin.
The rounding also prevents getting splinters in your hands when working with the wood.

In essence, the only time you want a raw unplaned surface is on exterior paneling so that paint adheres maximally.

What are you planning to build?

Regards, Jawen

It is for an indoor ceiling, the same as we have on the lower floor.

This ceiling was left on the unfinished upper floor until now when we bought the house; the house was built in 1983.

 

[Bybe]

Everything was on a pallet. We thought it was just as well to put it up since it was already in place.
But yes, now it's a bit frustrating when I'm missing about 6 sqm.
Mostly because I messed up when setting it up and had to take down some parts again.

If you go to someone who has their own small sawmill (and also usually their own forest), you can of course get other things.
There was one a few miles away from me who had their own "patterns," but very few of them remain unfortunately.

Regards Jawen

Unfortunately, I don’t know where to find a sawmill in or near Gothenburg.
I would gladly appreciate any tips.

 

[MasMats]

Arvidssons sawmill in Benareby is a good place to start. Lindome direction.

 

[jawen]

Everything was on a pallet. We thought it was just as well to set this up since it was already in place. But yes, now it's a bit frustrating when I'm missing about 6 square meters. Mostly because I messed up when I set it up and needed to take down certain parts again.

Unfortunately, I don't know where to find a sawmill in or near Gothenburg. Please feel free to give tips.

Paneling and all the wood present changes color/tone! This is because it is exposed to oxygen/UV and its own oxidation & turns yellow and gains its own "character." If you're going to stain/paint, it's not the same problem, but if you want a natural color, mixing new and "old" wood won't work. You'll be bothered by it 50 times more than by the possible slight rounding that the current sauna paneling has.

If so, try to put all newly purchased sauna panels on the same wall/small wall section, and then let them over time become like the other older wood you already have.

Sunlight/slanted light and different angles hide different wood tones very well, providing a natural variation in how you perceive the wood color, and a shaded, unlit surface is always perceived as darker/duller.

I would go ahead and do what I can to achieve a good, uniform ceiling, and if I'm still not satisfied, I would probably white stain the ceiling 1 or 2 times since it's still beautiful that you can see the wood structure through the staining.

Best regards, Jawen

 

[mexitegel]

Check with Hols Hyvleri/MLG byggimport in Alingsås. Got good help there a few years ago.

You can also check with Calexio Wood near Olskroken (kind of), but they mostly have hardwood.

 

[Bybe]

The panel and all the wood laying around change color//tone!
It is because they are exposed to oxygen/UV as well as their own oxidation & turn yellow & get their own "character"..
If you are going to stain/paint, it's not the same problem, but if you want a natural color, it doesn't work to mix new and "old" wood.
You'll be bothered by that 50 times more than any small rounding the current Sauna panel has..

If possible, try to put all the newly bought sauna panel on the same wall/piece of wall, and then let them, over time, become like the other older timber you already have.

Sunlight/slant light and different angles hide different wood tones very well, and give a natural shift in how one perceives the wood color & shaded unlit surface is always perceived as darker/more subdued.

I would go ahead and do what I can to achieve a good uniform ceiling, and if I were absolutely not satisfied, I would probably white-stain the ceiling 1 or 2 coats since it is beautiful that you can see the wood structure through the stain.

Best regards, Jawen

Thanks for the comprehensive answer!
Everything will be painted opaque, so it doesn't matter to me.
Feels a bit like it has to be sauna panel... and try to live with it.

Check with Hols Hyvleri/MLG byggimport in Alingsås. Got good help there a few years ago.

You can also check with Calexio Wood near Olskroken (kind of), but they mostly have hardwood.

Great, thanks for the tips, will check these out.