OK, going to reseal the balcony and had previously thought of using Ardex 8+9, but now it seems like a builder would rather recommend a cast seal (like Sopro) while another builder said it would be best with a membrane-based seal...
The neighbor, who is an old master builder, says that anything other than asphalt and roofing felt is doomed to fail...
It's a concrete slab and I have chipped away the top concrete layer and removed the old asphalt mass and the felt that was there...
My idea is to first lay 30 mm SPU insulation that I attach with fix, then I'll use self-leveling compound with a slope on top of that and then the seal on top of the self-leveling compound...
What do you say, what is preferable?
The neighbor, who is an old master builder, says that anything other than asphalt and roofing felt is doomed to fail...
It's a concrete slab and I have chipped away the top concrete layer and removed the old asphalt mass and the felt that was there...
My idea is to first lay 30 mm SPU insulation that I attach with fix, then I'll use self-leveling compound with a slope on top of that and then the seal on top of the self-leveling compound...
What do you say, what is preferable?
I would like more info about the products you have been recommended. I myself have a similar project approaching and have so far only looked at http://www.mapei.com/public/COM/products/2013_mapelasticsmart_gb.pdf
I would say that your neighbor is right, there is a reason that Skanska, JM, NCC, Peab, Veidekke, etc. etc. etc. have it on all their terraces. Icopal Membrane or Mataki Trema are great products used as built-in protection on terraces.
My problem is unfortunately the height as I only have 70 mm up to the balcony door (which opens outward).jocke_mejsel said:
My thought is to lay 30 mm insulation and then self-leveling compound with a slope (from 25 mm to 10 mm) and then waterproofing on that.
I will then lay tiles so then asphalt won't work, right?
With asphalt, don't you need to cast 50 mm on top to be able to lay tiles?
Exactly, it should be a 50mm overlay. Is it not possible to raise the door?
No, unfortunately not, since there's an external staircase as well and new sliding doors have been ordered...
I'm considering another option but it might be completely off...
What if I first cast a slope with self-leveling compound, then lay roofing felt and on top of the roofing felt "glue" SPU insulation with cold asphalt and then lay tiles on the SPU insulation (the one with aluminum)?
I'm considering another option but it might be completely off...
What if I first cast a slope with self-leveling compound, then lay roofing felt and on top of the roofing felt "glue" SPU insulation with cold asphalt and then lay tiles on the SPU insulation (the one with aluminum)?
It's been a while, but I've received some questions about this trough via PM, so I thought I'd follow up:
It ended up being Ardex A+X in the end, but unfortunately, it cracked along the facade after maybe 4 years, allowing water to seep in, causing stains/paint peeling on the ceiling in the room below. Movements in the house caused the "floor filler" (Floorfiller for outdoor use) to crack along the wall and thus also crack the waterproofing.
It's been "repaired" with a butyl strip on top for about a year now, and no new leaks or stains have appeared, so everything else is tight, but I'll be chipping away the row of tiles closest to the wall this spring and filling the crack. Then, I plan to "glue" a butyl strip (https://www.bauhaus.se/butylremsa-pp-10cmx20m#go-to-description) intended for Ardex against the wall and out over the old waterproofing, applying new on top of it, and then laying new tiles again...
If I were to do it all over, I would have tried to raise the patio door to get enough height for roofing felt/asphalt because it also handles movement much better...
I still believe that with the butyl strip, it will work, and there is very little water that gets on the facade (the roof extends a bit above)...
It ended up being Ardex A+X in the end, but unfortunately, it cracked along the facade after maybe 4 years, allowing water to seep in, causing stains/paint peeling on the ceiling in the room below. Movements in the house caused the "floor filler" (Floorfiller for outdoor use) to crack along the wall and thus also crack the waterproofing.
It's been "repaired" with a butyl strip on top for about a year now, and no new leaks or stains have appeared, so everything else is tight, but I'll be chipping away the row of tiles closest to the wall this spring and filling the crack. Then, I plan to "glue" a butyl strip (https://www.bauhaus.se/butylremsa-pp-10cmx20m#go-to-description) intended for Ardex against the wall and out over the old waterproofing, applying new on top of it, and then laying new tiles again...
If I were to do it all over, I would have tried to raise the patio door to get enough height for roofing felt/asphalt because it also handles movement much better...
I still believe that with the butyl strip, it will work, and there is very little water that gets on the facade (the roof extends a bit above)...
Ardex A+X, is it Kiilto A+X that is being referred to?
Read a bit about built-in waterproofing from, for example, Icopal and Mataki, but they all seem to require full welding, and that doesn't sound like a job to do yourself. Also, those products aren't listed with building supplies at all, just regular roofing felt, etc.
My balcony is a 2-layer where the balcony and the residence share the same structural slab. That is, no steel frame balcony.
The frame is lightweight concrete, so it's important for me to protect the lightweight concrete from absorbing moisture.
Read a bit about built-in waterproofing from, for example, Icopal and Mataki, but they all seem to require full welding, and that doesn't sound like a job to do yourself. Also, those products aren't listed with building supplies at all, just regular roofing felt, etc.
My balcony is a 2-layer where the balcony and the residence share the same structural slab. That is, no steel frame balcony.
The frame is lightweight concrete, so it's important for me to protect the lightweight concrete from absorbing moisture.