Building Materials and Construction Technology
Albireo: The space (about 8m2 / 16m3) will be divided into two parts. The smaller part will contain "technology" like an air compressor, etc. The other part will become a "cold cellar" (if it succeeds). Currently, the plans are to lay underfloor heating pipes (20mm) in loops under the floor/below the insulation, leading to a small circulation pump connected to a cooler (with a fan?) in the space that
Isakare: [citat] Steam barrier according to advice from a carpenter. Removed all ceiling moldings, sealed all joints in the plasterboard with latex sealant. Painted 3 layers of paint carefully on walls and ceiling, 2 layers of 20 or 30 gloss and then a layer of regular wall paint 7 gloss, wallpaper on the walls we wanted it after the paint. The paint acts as a layer of plastic and drastically reduces the
EJHermansson: Have received contact and quotes from various structural engineers to create new construction drawings for load transfer. Price range from 8000-21,000 SEK, a mix between time allocations of 8 hours and up to 15 hours to complete this. Does anyone know what a reasonable time estimate is for such a calculation and drawing production? The difference was quite large between the provided price
Harald Blåtumme: [citat] There was wooden paneling on the lower part, i.e., wainscoting, in one of the suspect rooms, so it was easy to start the investigation: we removed some boards and inspected the status behind in a suspect corner. Since we could see clear damage on the underlying board material, I cut away a piece of the board to inspect the insulation, studs, and basement wall. If it's board material, one
Snickarkirre: Okay, that's called under-spiking, and it doesn't destroy the ventilation. Instead, you nail/screw the boards to the underside of the rafters with a gap of about 10mm between them. Then you can just staple the insect net to the underside of the rafters before you nail the under-spiking in place. If you want vertical paneling, you must first attach "ströläkt" (a type of batten) like 22x45
MartinS1980: [citat] Thanks again, I'll try the plug and aerated concrete screws in a non-sensitive area and then pull, drag, and load, and we'll see :) Thanks for the help and interest (y)
KJD: We have a 1960s house with a basement and concrete joists, which has an attached storage room, about 2 x 6 m, according to the sketch below, also with concrete joists, but instead on a type of crawl space. However, there is no ventilation. Is it needed in this kind of construction? There’s nothing in the joists that can be damaged (as far as I know), I suppose I should drill and investigate to
NiklasAlden: Found "vippankare" now and it seems perfect. It seems to hold significantly more weight than molly and they are also straight, which means I can attach them to the beams that are U-shaped. Probably will be a beam on the short sides and brackets on the long side. I'll have to post a picture when it's done.
Stefan1972: No, not the deposits but the connection might as well be weakened on the inside.......... Sure, it's just a pore that's leaking but that doesn't mean it's a pore through 5mm of undamaged material. The pore might have formed because it's too thin right there and just a tiny bit thicker in other places so it hasn't gone through yet..........
Staffans2000: [citat] Certainly. But with the passage of time, the insulation board has scattered to the wind. Staffans
Anders243: I can report that it worked excellently. I did not think one could reshape threads so easily between two nearby dimensions, but as I said, it seems to have worked fine. Now 5 banister hooks sit nicely with new m10 pins.
Mazen: [citat] Circular with a sharp blade, a guide of a board or long pass for straight cuts. (Saw from the back side to get the least splinter on the fine surface) Remember to seal the cut surface/edge before painting, e.g., with white glue, otherwise, it absorbs a lot of paint and often becomes patchy.
FilipHe: [citat] That's great. Appreciate the info. Now I can sleep a little better tonight!
D_ReSk: [citat] thanks for your input!
Lasse Morin: The planning wasn't the best, that's for sure. I talked about removing a few trees to get more light on the solar panels and an enthusiastic helper got me started. Without thinking about anything but firewood. Now, these weren't thick trees, but I do have a few real big ones that need to be removed this fall because they stand in a row, like a curtain against the afternoon sun on the porch. Then
Britt-Marie Sundman: Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. We were thinking of switching to a shorter spark protection glass, but it's wiser to do as you do.
Robert-san01: We have KL and Isotimber framework. However, all walls are plastered. Don't people typically use birch plywood on the walls if they want a nice and durable wooden interior? KL feels a bit like tongue and groove paneling to me, and I wouldn't use that as a surface layer inside the house.
Dowser4711: Do you know where the studs are? If you use all your strength without it expanding, it's not an uncommon sign that it's attached to a stud.
walderama: Hi! I currently have about 20mm overhang on the façade flashing. Is that sufficient or should it be longer?
HEA260: [citat] Thank you for sharing.
S_B_O: Now I have finished four holes. I had a bit of luck with the first hole and perhaps got a bit overconfident for the next one. But for the last hole, I made a simple drilling guide that did the trick. Now I only have 20 holes left to refine the technique.
justusandersson: It entirely depends on the staircase design. For the floor, it is not needed. The staircase's load on the hall floor is negligible.