Plastering basement wall (interior wall?)

[Harald Blåtumme]

If we hadn't noticed any problems, we probably wouldn't have torn it out when we did, it was at least fifteen years ago on reflection. But it started to smell like "basement," we opened up the wall in a corner and the mess of rotten, moldy-smelling studs and sheet material spoke volumes.

Out came the reciprocating saws and crowbars, on went the respirators, and out with everything... then grinding all the bare basement walls with a diamond grinder, plastering with a suitable mortar like the repair mortar we used. It was a bit of work, but if the need is there, it's obviously worth it to have a dry and fresh basement.

There are many different systems and methods you can use according to your preferences, tastes, and needs; the basic principles are well-known - moisture must not be trapped and careful consideration is needed regarding the placement of organic materials.

 

[Olf Oggler]

Yes, if you have such issues, it's clear that action is required. But many who don't have any problems with moisture seem to take action just because others have issues.

I don't understand how it's happened. But in our house, wooden studs have been placed right against the basement wall with a vapor barrier (plastic) facing the room for 50 years. Everywhere I've opened and checked, there hasn't been a trace of moisture. It really makes you wonder if that "vapor barrier" is truly sealed?

 

[Plupp 182623]

Yes, if you have such issues, it's clear that action is required. But many who don't have any problems with moisture seem to take action just because others have problems.

I don't understand how this has come about. But in our house, wooden studs have been placed directly against the basement wall with a vapor barrier (plastic) facing into the room for 50 years. Everywhere I've opened up and checked, there hasn't been a trace of moisture. It really makes you wonder if that "vapor barrier" is truly airtight?

If we hadn't noticed any problems, we probably wouldn't have torn it out when we did, it was probably at least fifteen years ago upon closer reflection. But it started to smell "musty", we opened up the wall in a corner and the mess with rotten mold-infested studs and sheet material spoke for itself.

Bring out the reciprocating saw and crowbars, put on a respirator, and remove everything... then sanding all the bare basement walls with a diamond grinder, plastering with suitable mortar such as repair mortar which we used. It was a bit of work with this, but if there's a need, it's definitely worth it to have a bone-dry and fresh basement.

There are many different systems and methods one can use according to preference and need, the basic principles are well known - moisture must not be trapped and thoughtfulness is needed regarding the placement of organic materials.

How do you open up and check?

 

[Olf Oggler]

Primarily, I have renovated for other reasons. Replaced chipboard with gypsum etc. In some places, I have opened locally for inspection. But I still have walls and floors that are venerably untouched yet. What it looks like under/behind there, I do not know.

 

[Harald Blåtumme]

How do you open and check?

There was wooden paneling on the lower part, i.e., wainscoting, in one of the suspect rooms, so it was easy to start the investigation: we removed some boards and inspected the status behind in a suspect corner. Since we could see clear damage on the underlying board material, I cut away a piece of the board to inspect the insulation, studs, and basement wall.

If it's board material, one should proceed a bit more cautiously during the initial investigation; one might start by drilling holes for moisture measurement in the studs against the floor corners behind the baseboards and proceed with more invasive interventions to inspect as needed.

I am absolutely no expert in investigation methods or assessing the results that emerge; in our case, it quickly became entirely obvious what was going on. We tried to claim this under hidden defects insurance, but it didn't go through because Anticimex/equivalent had written a note about "risk construction" in the inspection report.

We didn't receive a penny in compensation; however, I got a detailed description of what a correct and moisture-proof construction might look like, choice of materials, working methods/tools, etc., from a very knowledgeable construction engineer they sent out to inspect what we felt was a disaster at the time. Knowledge is also a form of compensation, and it was enough for us to get it sorted by ourselves, with professionals hired for the electrical work, plumbing, and tiling.