Building Materials and Construction Technology
Snickarkirre: Okay, then you can cut rectangles instead, they actually work even better. (y) It probably doesn't matter if you use franskskruv or some type of wafers, both hold incredibly well. Personally, I prefer waf screws because the head is larger on them, so you can tighten much harder without the head being pulled too deep, and if you don't have a brutal machine to tighten with, you almost have to
Mikael Wallin: [citat] Thanks! I skimmed through it and realized that my math isn't quite there either... But I will read through it more carefully at some point and see if we can use it as a basis for a better algorithm!
Lindabell: Thank you so much!!! I apologize, I didn't get a notification that I received a response, but I saw it now when I was about to make another post. I'm impressed by all the knowledge here, and this gave me a good basis for continued renovation. I may return with new questions ☺️ [citat] [citat]
mugatu: If you have an impact wrench, you can use concrete screws. They can be knocked loose if you want to remove everything and fill evenly.
Marcus1984: [citat] Well, it's 21 cm plus 12 mm for the thickness of the outer MDF board. Yes, it won't be very deep, but it's sufficient; I've measured against another existing bookshelf. [citat] That was a good tip. :) There will also be two rows of beams against the floor, so quite a large surface area for the tape to adhere to.
Zaps: 1960s house, so relatively high risk that there is blåbetong. However, it's not stated in the description. Check if there is a radon measurement done. The roof doesn't have to be replaced just because it's asbestos cement. It depends on how comfortable you feel having asbestos on the roof, if you have children you're possibly worried about, etc.
Ironside: The boards might warp in the garage during the summer when it's the hottest and most humid. I played it safe and sawed up the board to build the mold frame from it. But even then, it was anything but straight, and I had to pull and tug a lot to achieve a reasonable fit. Now the frame is under pressure beneath a couple of bags of pellets, with the hope of being able to use it for casting next
Odda: [citat] The reinforcement is visible in some places on the underside. I've tapped them with a drift pin and they seem to have only surface rust. I plan to rust-proof and mortar in. However, there are white salt deposits on the underside.
Keith Sivenbring: Hello, The floor between rooms on the entrance level and the basement living room is poorly insulated; both conversation and footsteps are clearly audible between the floors. There are five fully visible joists 150x45 in the ceiling with 120 cm gaps. The floor consists only of 38mm tongue-and-groove floorboards and a thin ceiling panel in the basement living room. The ceiling height is 230 cm at
Kaj Hjälte: I have a house from the late 1800s that I am going to renovate. When I tear down and remove the old tretex insulation boards, the plaster falls off. What plaster should I use? It needs about 2 cm of plastering, is that okay on old walls?
Claes1969: [citat] I'll have to look into that.
Snickarkirre: Hi! Sounds like a good plan. The easiest and most stable way is to first lay the studs horizontally and then the second round vertically. Absolutely correct to place the vapor barrier between the two new layers of studs (y) a tip is to use obs boards and then the plasterboard. You won't regret it the day you need to attach shelves or something else, and you'll avoid having to find studs or fuss
Elin Blomberg: Thank you for the update. It turned out great. Thanks for the inspiration ☺️
Snickarkirre: Hey! How close are the studs in those wall elements? If the distance is too wide so you can't just attach the plywood directly to the wall, you might consider adding studs with 28x70 or 28mm hat profiles. But then you'll probably need to lay the battens/hat profile horizontally on the walls. Then add plywood+gypsum.
Snickarkirre: Hello! The wall becomes incredibly stable if you just screw the plywood. I have never experienced gluing plywood to walls, and I have been involved in making large gable walls that function as bracing for very large modular roofs. In those cases, however, there would be 15mm plywood on both the inside and outside of the wall. Is there any specific reason you want it to be so stable? But if you
huggan: The windows still need classification, at least EI 30.
BORNER: Thank you very much @roli and @Snickarkirre for the good advice!
Trelleborgbyggaren: [citat] It's an enclosure of a plot Hence 1.5 m between posts
engs: There are reciprocating saw blades specifically designed for that.
HEA260: [citat] The stamp pressure becomes too high (support beam against stud 90x90). Must increase to columns 115x115 to withstand the stamp pressure. How do I check that the foundation holds now that the beam lands a bit away from the edge element? Note that the remaining columns in the wall are of dimension 90x120. So the column will be in the right place, but the pressure will increase. Therefore, I
georgep: Hello, As my title says, I want to fill gaps such as those that are 4-5 cm long and 1-2 cm wide, which are awkwardly located behind a drainpipe or in other places. It would be nice if there was some kind of "syringe/pump" using the same principle as a caulking gun. I have quite a few such holes to fill and would prefer not to bother with mixing mortar in buckets. I'd rather work a bit more
randomkaka: [citat] Ok then I understand :)
Lerstenstegel: Silicone resin paint is suitable for facades. Acrylic is absolutely not recommended for facades that need to breathe and be diffusion open. You can also limewash the house or paint with silicate paint. But the silicone resin is superior to these, although it is also the most expensive. However, it also has other properties such as being water-repellent and self-cleaning. As for the base, you
franzfritz: We are planning to build a short side wall for a sunroom. For the foundation wall (depth 150mm), we intended to use Leca blocks or aerated concrete. I understand that Leca is more durable and that aerated concrete has better insulation value. Which would you recommend? For the veneer wall (both inside and outside) we will use half-stones (60mm deep) of classic red brick. Two questions: 1. How
justusandersson: I think you can assume that what you have highlighted in red is correct. To change the assessment, you would need to find construction drawings of the roof trusses, but that is probably difficult.
larsbj: Looks clearly suspicious in a couple of the pictures. Submit a sample if you want to be sure. Most plumbers probably require cleaning first. It's allowed to do it yourself, but be careful.
Raffe11: Hello. I have a cast staircase with stone slabs on it that needs to be repaired. What is the procedure? Keep in mind that I have never done casting before. I understand that I need to remove the old "railing." I am sending a couple of pictures of what needs to be repaired.
Oestergaard: Hello, I am in the process of building a conservatory from Willabgarden (Lean-to roof with glass roof 6030mm x 3825mm) on insulated floor beams where I have 145 mm insulation in the beams. But I would like to have it done correctly. I plan to enclose all sides and install ventilation so that the air can keep the humidity down. What I have read about building insulated beams is (from the ground