Building Materials and Construction Technology
justusandersson: My comment on wall 1 is of a more general nature. Masonry walls cannot be of unlimited length and height. How long and how high they can be depends on the type of material, presence of ground pressure, etc. If the new wall is placed so that the storage becomes larger and is made of masonry, I don't see any problems.
justusandersson: If you plan to replicate the construction with cheaper materials, you must start with the modulus of elasticity of the materials in question. The exact specifications are most easily obtained from the manufacturer. The number of layers in relation to the thickness provides some guidance. The plywood in the picture does not seem to be of premium quality. Generally, I believe that it's the quality
Snickarkirre: No worries, just fun to be able to help (y) okay there will be a floor there that needs to be cast, then it’s totally calm, and the stairs will definitely stay. Then it will surely work with a cast staircase too, as the slab will hold it. Yes, it will definitely be easier to build in wood, but it's fully feasible to cast as well. Yes, exactly, it's also an advantage if there should be any
Axel bolander: Hi. I am renovating the slab. I have chiseled and dug down 40 cm in one of the rooms and now see that a partition wall I thought was load-bearing (with foundation below) was just standing on the old slab and will collapse when I start digging on the other side of the partition wall. Construction is 10 cm lightweight concrete. QUESTION: Can I build up a ledge or support wall to hold the partition
justusandersson: I assume it is a freshwater lake. If you imagine the deck width to be about 3 meters, you would need a glulam beam (pressure-treated) of approximately 140x405 mm. As usual with glulam, there are alternative dimensions. Even though it is freshwater, the environment is quite aggressive. With steel, you encounter a maintenance issue, but you could over-design and let it rust. Perhaps you can get a
pbjok: Window 130x140cm Alu 4300:-each Solid door 2.5-4k (guaranteed something cheaper they took since it is not specified) about 90m beam 45x45? 14/m 1260:- OSB boards 12 sheets 4428:- Gypsum 30m2 2400:- Ventilation, 2500-4500~ Electric fixtures etc. about 7500~ Paint 3000? miscellaneous: 3500~ 30000-35000 Materials 55000 for 4 days of work? And then they surely have cheaper materials than what I find
injonil: Does anyone know what type of hinge this is or even know where they can be purchased? Length 95mm, cc screw holes 30mm.
Rickard.: I really prefer MS polymer sealant for visible joints. It's almost as easy to make look nice as construction silicone but is paintable and generally seems to be slightly better at everything.
Sstridsberg: I'm thinking about getting some extra square meters of lawn in the backyard of my townhouse. The idea is to demolish the existing wall and then dig out up to about 50 cm from the garage rows (somewhere around there is my property line), and then build a wall from the little fence on the left in the picture, along the garages, and then back the same distance. It will be a bit more than 1.5 meters
bldr: Here is a nice sawhorse http://woodhowto.blogspot.com/p/wood-how-to-table-type-work-horse.html?m=1 [bild]
bldr: Looking for tips on how to make a simple platform to place between two single ladders. Planning to paint the house this summer. Two 34 mm planks, but need to lock them in some way.
Rickard.: You can place it any way you want if you are not going to paint the underside of the eaves, then you should have the sawed side down for the paint to adhere. Why do you want to use paneling?
Simon Löfqvist: [citat] My explanation is probably just bad. It looks like a fabric, not bumps.
oswim: [citat] Thanks! :) I'm not quite sure which carrying beam you're referring to? Smart idea with the wall beams, I'll consider that again with this in mind :)
David_Berglund: It quickly happened that we found another house that we liked, so after making some progress, we decided it was easier to restore the staircase, so all the risers were reinstalled, and the staircase was repainted and restored as it was. A lot of work for nothing, but we're happy with the new house. :)
blomfluga: Do you apply sealant on the outside? They are summer sections in an aluminum frame... Seal between stud and frame?
jonaserik: No, it has now been a week now and then there is no danger, and it doesn't need to be covered with plastic. Covering is done because when concrete cures, it gets warm and the water evaporates a little too quickly, and larger pieces tend to crack. If you're not going to use it right away, you can place some boards on top and a wooden plate so it gets a bit of airflow underneath, and remove it when
jonaserik: Congratulations on a great job :) looks incredibly professional :)
Mazen: Husfix (y) can both be screwed and drilled into.. https://www.bauhaus.se/husfix-casco-3kg
Hans_H: [citat] No, it's not in the basement. Thanks for the help!
KnockOnWood: Maybe an idea to buy pre-treated paneling? Check out https://www.reftele.com/innepaneler.php?p=innepaneler for example. In 2010, we did as you are planning, bought untreated paneling, white-waxed it ourselves, and put it up. The quality of the surface treatment was so-so, as the autumn weather made it difficult to stand outside and treat it. For the ceiling, we bought Södra Skogsägarna's
KnockOnWood: New, good, double-sided tape: [bild] https://fyndiq.se/produkt/magic-nano-tape-elastisk-tejp-3-meter-12c78a5a1e134731/
Krille-72: [citat] You will be fine with 6x120. It's just about fastening the studs. When you put on the chipboard, everything locks in place. A carpenter would have driven in 2 nails=done.
Mattias_Jo1: [citat] do an outside corner finish on both sides
Ernfrid: [citat] I have byggmax, jula, and biltema nearby, I was planning to try to find a cheap solution today.
Jörgen Ö: Go in and read about this in the instructions from the manufacturer you have used. EPS is and has never been okay as a surface layer, primarily due to strength reasons, self-leveling compound or a slipcoat is what is normally applied on top. EPSCement AB | Applications
Ganlet: [citat] Sounds convenient, but I get the feeling that "filler" might be a bit too weak (?). I want to protect the construction/reinforcement rather than something cosmetic. From what I can read about larger/more important repairs, it seems to be some type of repair concrete. However, I don't know if it's as critical here or if it's possible to make it good since the repair is done from below.