Building Materials and Construction Technology
walderama: Hi! I currently have about 20mm overhang on the façade flashing. Is that sufficient or should it be longer?
HEA260: [citat] Thank you for sharing.
S_B_O: Now I have finished four holes. I had a bit of luck with the first hole and perhaps got a bit overconfident for the next one. But for the last hole, I made a simple drilling guide that did the trick. Now I only have 20 holes left to refine the technique.
justusandersson: It entirely depends on the staircase design. For the floor, it is not needed. The staircase's load on the hall floor is negligible.
Umma01: He has seen gray-blue aerated concrete. My thought was that those with experience handling houses from that time might be able to offer some tips on where blue concrete might be hidden, if it was often used together with something else or so. I get it, it was a time when they experimented a lot, not just with drugs.
Mattias_Jo1: [citat] Yes, I agree. It's an Ikea table. But it's going to be sold, so it feels like a lot of work... maybe it's easiest to just scrap it.
Blaxtar: I am planning to buy a house from the 1920s where the seller has removed the concrete floor in the basement and poured EPS concrete, installed water-based underfloor heating, and a moisture barrier before tiles were installed. Otherwise, the basement is made of lightweight concrete. No part of the basement is a wet area. Is it really correct to have a moisture barrier on such a construction?
Glada Snickarn: [citat] What a difference in price! Which company did you hire? Did they do a good job? Best regards, Petter
Markus P: Hello, yes, it went well, you can follow my construction thread here: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/nu-ryker-dubbelgaraget-det-ska-byggas-klaettervaegg.263524/ Best regards, Markus
justusandersson: I think that largely depends on whether it is a simple or a lavish house. For simple houses, all material was sourced locally, for lavish ones from very distant places. I believe limestone was quarried at all the Västgöta mountains to a greater or lesser extent. I'm no expert, but I don't think there are that many. There are handbooks. Google it.
tontho78: Just watched a movie on YouTube with that, thanks.
WallEnberg8: [citat] Still haven't decided, or are there any experiences to share? Thanks
Snickarkirre: Oh well, then it might be difficult to study or something. That was probably the best option unfortunately (y)
justusandersson: 42, 56, 66 and 78 mm wide laminated beams are produced by splitting. They are mostly stocked in smaller heights. However, all sizes are usually available as special order items. If you glue a 56x315, the result is comparable to 90x315. 2 pieces of 42x315 are not enough to meet the architect's requirements.
cleverton: Hello, We are in the process of a complete renovation and are currently at the stage of installing new interior walls for the new layout on our concrete slab. We have some questions about how to do this in the best way. The house is a split-level. The concrete slab has minimal insulation underneath, 5mm mineral wool in dry rooms and 10mm in wet rooms under the slab. However, as we can discern
Daaaaaniel: Try to isolate the space with plastic from floor to ceiling. Tape around. Buy a sledgehammer. Think back to your unjust math teacher or similar. A little while later, the problem is solved :) There are undoubtedly more sophisticated methods. But sometimes there's no need to complicate things either. Addition: When I did something similar, I drilled a few holes with a hammer drill to get through
tveksamt: I would have preferred to simply drill a hole straight through the post.
KungAnka: I need to repair some missing pieces of stucco. It's not anything fancy, just a rounding between the ceiling and wall, like a cove molding. Plaster compound, that is, and I saw that Byggmax has it. But when you read the product description, it seems to be made for other purposes. Is plaster compound just plaster compound, or should I buy something completely different? From product description
tobbechrist: How did you do it? Curious as I have similar thoughts.
Snickarkirre: What are you going to cast? Is it a larger casting height? You might be able to cut the rule/rules that have bent where it's worst or perhaps in the middle of the form, then straighten it with a long level or similar, and you just splice it there with a new 45x95 piece. If the rule has bent, it's impossible to get it straight again.
RichardRR: I have a house from 1964 made of "blåbetong" with a plaster facade. The entrance to the house consists of a section of glass blocks and an exterior door. I am now going to replace it with a sturdier exterior door that weighs significantly more than the existing door and the glass blocks can't hold the frame in place, plus I don't like the appearance of the glass blocks either. I was thinking of
Kristian Ask: [citat] I buried a printed rule on the back so it goes up over the bottom edge. We have a lot of sand in the soil, so the wood lasts a long time even underground.
Rickard.: I think silicone is a wise choice. It might be troublesome to move, but also quite easy the day you want to take it out.
Kolonistuga Rosa: Hello! We are building a 25 sqm allotment cottage that will mostly be used during the summer months. We won't have any water plumbing, but a kitchen with a countertop fridge, countertop freezer, stove, and oven. We will have a wood stove, but when we're not there, heating from the fridge/freezer, solar gain, and possibly a heater of some kind will have to suffice. What temperature should we
civjohan: Hello! I am curious about the best way to mount tiles on an outdoor wall. The wall is actually a 1.8-meter high screen built with 95x95 posts cc600mm. What should we mount on the outside of the "studs" that works best in an exposed weather location?
Casaloco: Theoretically, approximately 14 sacks of coarse concrete (25kg) are needed.
Snickarkirre: Okay, then you can cut rectangles instead, they actually work even better. (y) It probably doesn't matter if you use franskskruv or some type of wafers, both hold incredibly well. Personally, I prefer waf screws because the head is larger on them, so you can tighten much harder without the head being pulled too deep, and if you don't have a brutal machine to tighten with, you almost have to