Building Materials and Construction Technology
BaraBenny: Thank you so much for your answers!
anders07: [citat] As an addition, mix the plaster to a toothpaste-like consistency so that it stays on the spatula even if you turn it upside down. Wet the wall thoroughly (but not so it drips) with a spray bottle before applying the plaster. You can apply multiple layers, but preferably unevenly in the lower layer for better adhesion. Do not wet between layers. Scrape the final surface with wood, plastic,
Messier1994: Thank you all! I have received help from Veckebo Såg. Delivery will take a few more weeks, but they have been very helpful and I believe the result will be good. https://veckebosag.se/
JanPh_89: Hello and thank you for the response! No, it is not within a detailed planned area. It seems promising at least for the load-bearing wall, which should be a minor issue. I'll contact the municipality and check, otherwise there's only a constructor and a skilled firm left to consider :) Interesting if that can be the case with the drawings, I actually didn't know that. I hope someone well-versed
Biomek: Renovating the kitchen and some of the plaster came off when I removed the tiles between the upper cabinets and the countertop. I was advised to use waterproof filler, which I did. Now that I was going to buy more waterproof filler to finish the last bit, this sales assistant said that waterproof filler is not suitable for tiling. What to do? I've pretty much plastered about 2.5 linear meters and
BirgitS: Is there someone at the company who is a structural engineer, or do you need to bring someone in to size the beam, etc.? Carpenters and the like usually do not have sufficient knowledge for that. When interfering with load-bearing structures, you must make a building notification to the municipality.
RichardRR: Scraped away the loose parts, vacuumed and then managed to put up a "chicken wire" somewhat. Had to mix Puts&Murbruk C KC50/50 rather loosely to get it to stick to the ceiling. Halfway through, I felt I might have chosen plaster instead, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it works with C-bruk. It'll probably be two or three layers before I'm done. /R
z_bumbi: With 12 blocks on 9 squares, I wouldn't even consider picking up two because they're missing reinforcement. I don't even know if I would consider reinforcement.
Jonatan79: Self-leveling compound is the most common, try to calculate the volume needed.
useless: Looks like asfaboard. That's probably the most common construction in the last 30 years? The problem is that the boards bend over time, so you have to insert some planks between the existing ones to push up the stuff.
Komso: [citat] Thanks for the response. I don't think the one you mentioned is the right one. However, they do have one called Mäster 145. It's quite similar.
b8q: One thread is enough.
Anonymiserad 290759: Hello. Help.... the ground cover is spottily moldy under the entire house - the cover is behind boards that hide all the high pillars under the house. If I tear away the ground cover that clothes the boards under the house, is the cover meant to stop rain and snow from getting in under the house, or can you skip the ground cover that clothes the underside of the house on pillars?
Tååmten: [citat] Thank you for the answers. It will be particleboard in all cases, setting up with cc30 I think will be tricky, but the option with more noggings can be done, it depends a bit on what it actually looks like under the floor. I have no plans for tiles at the moment, but it's better to have thought a bit ahead. Many thanks for all the input from everyone who contributed.
ByggPlankan: [citat] What is the purpose? The cheapest solution is to address this from below. Add insulation. Create a frame. Plasterboard. If it is truly casting you are after, I agree with the previous post, with certain construction additions depending on loads and purpose.
Utdelning: I would probably have used sealant like facade sealant. And depending on the distance between the module pipe and the hole wall, I might have placed a backing rod.
Bosegosen: Thanks for the reply Patzie! I don't know how it looks behind, so I'm not sure if I dare to drill further in. The plugs (the ones that match in thickness) seem to be too long for the hole - can I cut the outer part of the plug, or do I need to buy one that fits better?
FredrikR: [citat] Any 16g nail gun should do the job. You decide how much you want to spend on the gun, whether you want air-driven or battery, etc.
Faris Al-zwain: [citat] So it's not load-bearing as marked with orange color. I can tear down the wall, great. Thank you so much for the answer and help.
Fotografen: If there's a wardrobe above, it won't move around, whatever it is. Asbestos is not dangerous if left undisturbed where it is.
pstarklu: Is it really recommended to apply waterproofing plastic on walls when they are built with Besta blick, which has a polystyrene core about 12cm thick? It feels wrong as you would be trapping moisture between two non-breathable materials. Has anyone here built with Besta blocks?
Mike2021: [citat] Hello Kattenkakan Thank you for your link regarding wall construction for a fireproof wall. Exactly what I was looking for.
Höghus: [citat] Scoring/snapping probably doesn't work very well. The Cembrit is harder than gypsum, and the best is to cut with a circular saw with a carbide blade. Cutting outside is recommended—it smokes like hell. Or cut with the circular saw on an EPS board and a vacuum cleaner. A jigsaw/handsaw also works, but it probably won't look very neat. If cabinets are to be hung on the walls, I would set
GHP: I'm probably also leaning towards oldboy's perspective. Moisture in the middle floor is completely out of the question. The floor is open from below and bone dry. It's also unthinkable that it's the parquet itself that is sagging. It's glued herringbone that's as old as the house, so the likely failure mode would be loose parquet pieces (which there are in some places). Possibly there's some type
Garagebyggare: Now that a few weeks have passed since the article, I still feel I can say that prices are on the decline. I think some things have become at least a little cheaper. It will be exciting to follow. I've already bought a lot for my garage build, but it's appreciated if prices continue to drop regardless.
Keexet: Hmm, just as I suspected then. Thank you for your response!(y)