Building Materials and Construction Technology
snowjim: Now everything is in place, here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/EkgejdJ
MStahl: Hi! What should I do?! Our kitchen cabinets will have a sockerbitslist at the top (the idea is that the cabinets should reach the ceiling) but what do we do where the sockerbitslist meets the ceiling molding/crown molding? There needs to be a little margin but I don't want an empty space between the cabinet/list and the ceiling molding. How have you done it?
fribygg: Personally, I prefer stdgips 1/2" and preferably 1200 wide panels to minimize seams. Renoveringsgips might possibly be good if you don't want to remove moldings, for example, NORGIPS 900 panels, which are light and convenient to transport, carry in, and install.
Christopher Persson: The room needs to be insulated. But it might work to insulate the 95 wall. Maybe I'll go up a notch to 120. It will be a small workshop, so it doesn't need to be as well insulated as a typical house. As long as the stability is good, I'm satisfied. I'm mostly thinking about the future. It should be stable enough to furnish an upper floor if one wishes to do so someday.
justusandersson: I don't think it was common to cast such junctions. At least not in small houses. When I did construction practice, cast iron sewer pipes were still used, and I can't recall anything like that. I believe that they tried to avoid casting in joints for as long as possible.
Vermilion: Jo actually just ordered that kit before I got a reply :) The problem arises when they run out of a certain length. Tried to find the long variants on Amazon but didn't find anything suitable.
roberob: [citat] Used a 5mm packing shim and foam sealant
Paxman: Bumping this thread to see if there is anyone else who has additional input on the matter. Once again, the need for a lift point in the garage ceiling has arisen, and it bothers me that I don't know 100% how these bjälklagselementen are constructed. :cool:
TypRätt: Then I would have removed it completely, but keep in mind that if you have a wall that is not made of blocks but entirely cast in lightweight concrete, it is probably not blåbetong even if it has a light lead blue tint. However, if no radon measurement has been done, it might be worth being preventive since it is clearly a disadvantage in a potential future sale to have high radon levels. If you
Marcus Hennix: [citat] Ok! And there's no risk that it condenses on the inside of the windbreaker, etc.?
jonaserik: If the råspont has twisted, it will twist even more with strong heat on. Set up a fan that only blows, and it will dry up; air and more air is needed to dry wood.
Rabbithole: [citat] [citat] Kingspan I believe sells directly to private individuals, unsure about Lindab but there are several suppliers so it's just a matter of calling around. Otherwise, you have to go through a construction company, local independent building stores usually can get hold of just about anything. Pir panels or with mineral wool
Snickarkirre: Hello! I DON'T think you need a kortling on the first row you lay. But then on the second, you must have one. Even if they are not fire-rated, you should have it because otherwise, there is a risk that the joint compound in the seam might crack. But buy "kortlingsplåt" at a hardware store. They come on a roll. Then cut the piece to about 850 or 1150 depending on which gypsum you are using. Then
Chefred: Sure, I’d gladly head to the forests of Småland and rent a cabin.
Pumabjörnen: [citat] I would have chosen these solutions too (y)
justusandersson: In this case, the heart wall and its extension with a beam are likely load-bearing. However, one cannot be really sure without having seen the complete drawings. It's not a good idea to start demolition before ensuring how the construction holds together. A house that has been a bank premises can offer some surprises.
justusandersson: As pointed out in the above post, that arch construction does not provide much support.
Anonymiserad 290759: [citat]
Bor i trähus från 1920: Aha, we have 40 cm visible, thought you had about the same if you're going to have a 60 cm albabalk. Then I continue to have the same problem. I have also considered Tjälldens hybridgrund instead of albabalk, they recommended mesh with plaster on the outside... but I continue to dream of natural stone. (Yes, I have a floor structure - no slab on grade but a foundation wall filled with foam
Mikael_L: [citat] What is often done is to let the floors stand on concrete columns and then build walls between the columns (and wherever you want a wall) with steel studs/drywall (possibly plus OSB or plywood). This works well for commercial spaces, such as shops, offices, etc.
Cuzzoss: [citat] How did it go?? Also pondering a bit in the same way.
trasker: [citat] You're probably right, I think I'll put an extra stud in the corner minus the thickness of the board/plaster. Thanks for the input!
raveper: Place your laminate on the underside and it's done.
neo11: Concrete mix Weber 318. Mix almost slightly dry. I believe it is non-shrink after about a week at most.
Wallawhoa: [citat] Ah, I think it was a post from about 10 years ago. Can't find the thread. Memory fails :)
1982_Generation: Thank you for the response, Justus. Went to another viewing today with a carpenter, he ruled out the slab, saying that the settling in the house likely occurred shortly after it was built (1985) and has been in the same degree since. The seller also claims that these settlements have existed since the house was new (wouldn’t one have complained?). Anyway, I have more information to move
Galenskaparen: Thanks for the advice and tips! (y) I'll return with the result ...
