Building Materials and Construction Technology
PåTuriLivet: We are renovating the former residential house on the property, and under a part of it, perhaps 1/4 or 1/5 of the house, there is an old boiler room (used until the 1950s?). The rest of the house stands on rock/soil. I would like to furnish it and use it as a food and wine cellar. Is it possible, and does anyone know where I can find instructions on what to consider? Alternatively, share your own
1977bjorn: You wrote the answer yourself under point 1. Regardless of alignment, you will probably want to seal against the wall with silicone so that water doesn't run down there. If you mask it evenly so that the joint is exactly the same width throughout the entire length, no one will ever see this... With reservation that I misunderstood the entire question :) Edit: ahaa and I did, yes... I think in
Nygge72: [citat] Yes, I thought I would try that first. But I want to be a few steps ahead in the process in case it's not enough, so I can plan the work on how to proceed.
Joakim90: [citat] Thanks! That will probably be the one.
DCHPL: Hello, Pondering construction... I'm planning to build a carport with a frame of 9 pieces of 115x225 x 10 meters, which will stand on 11 pieces of 115x115 posts. Then there will be a ribbed roof of 45x95 on top. The green part is a concrete wall and between each horizontal 115x225, I plan to add some kind of roof to keep the rain away... The design follows another pergola, so I can't change it
jknut: [citat] Do you know what kind of studs/insulation he used? Regular 45x70 with insulation?
Rickard.: 1cm/m is veeeery much. I usually set 2.5-3mm/m, but of course, you're free to set more.
Yrrol: I will reinforce a rule on the rafters, the horizontal one (hanbjälke?). It is 10x10, and I will attach 45x220 on the sides. At the ends, I plan to drill and use M16 or M20 threaded rods to lock all parts together. But I also want to compress along with regular screws. I saw that Essve has a special screw: ET-T construction screw. Would you say these are better, or do you think regular screws
Fogdeholm: [citat] My house seems to have the most problems, but I haven't been in my neighbors' basements, so I can't know for sure. What I'm wondering is whether it COULD be the drainage, but also if it could be a cracked/leaking pipe from the stormwater.
Daniel Barnaniel: Wood glue, distance screw type 20. There are probably instructions from the manufacturer online if you are unsure.
Mihdrin: You are right. Both in that I should have replied in the old thread and that it is as you say. Got hold of the builder, he verified that it is a wooden facade with an air gap. Signed the contract about 30 minutes after my post. Thanks for the help everyone.
Daniel Barnaniel: Handles more than gypsum of course, but wasn’t that the question? You want something to attach the kitchen to—nogging rows so you can drywall directly or ply, preferably 15 I would say. Unclear about the wall by the electrical cabinet, you might need to talk to the craftsman again?
KnockOnWood: [citat] No, that was probably wrong! There were likely only two doors per wardrobe.
Majoda: [citat] okay thanks for the reply! :) I'm wondering a bit about the impregnation, if it means it has to be that agent that was later banned? Or did they switch to something else shortly after it was banned? Or was it then that they completely stopped using pressure-treated beams?
Myrstacken: [citat] It doesn't work at all actually, it's just a myth because the shape looks like a sound absorber. Yet there are many rehearsal rooms with young people who still do it this way. Maybe it helps in a shelter with concrete walls to reduce the echo as you say. But it's a fun classic.
Smarteus: [citat] I started testing it. But it was difficult to measure how much was needed. Because "some" was not enough, unfortunately. :) And it was more uneven at the bottom than at the top. It required 10 quite thick spacers in the end in the middle. So I don't think it would have worked well, unfortunately. I wish it had. [bild]
Skånepöjk: [citat] I pull in 3 screws straight down the concrete, let it suck in! Smart!
Oldboy: That is probably an example of long-term deformation due to weight. I don't even think it's possible to push it back to a straight position, possibly with a permanent column underneath. Don't think it's a danger, just an aesthetic issue. Guess the only way to solve it permanently is to tear up and replace the beam with a stronger one. If replacing the beam due to risk of collapse is not
Random1234: What use did you find for this?
herge: We need another room and are planning to transform the old boiler room into living space. There's a bit of a catch as the incoming water and electricity enter here, and I want to hide them in an attractive way. [bild] Thinking about how to do the walls smoothly and stylishly. We have access to mechanical exhaust, so one way could be to frame out the walls with ventilation behind and ensure water
Stefan1972: if you can access the underside, isn't it easiest to approach it from there? Usually, you can see which step is moving too much and then you can secure it better in any way you prefer.
Huggabuggaa: [citat] there are no problems, but you have to consider that the smoke pipe has a minimum distance to combustible materials of 500mm, the same applies to the Kamin, which also has a certain distance to combustible materials https://www.eldkraft.se/kategori/Rkrr
Allmänobildad: If all walls were also laser-cut and in modular dimensions, it would probably be faster to install laser-cut tiles.
Anna Bo: Thank you for all the answers! Now I know what possible options are available :-)
Mazen: Compromise... use 5x40 all the way (rail + washer adds about 5mm), good if the screw goes through the plywood.. Edit: runner-up on that.
M_H: I have an old LED strip mounted on the underside of our retaining wall that needs to be replaced. The current LED strip is seated in a routed channel on the underside of the top stone, but to prevent it from falling out, it's also secured with something that looks like small dried blobs of cement on the back of the strip. I probably need to attach the new strip in a similar way. What could have
Leif i Skåne: I used. Construction screw Essve Et-T 8.2X220mm When I assembled my laminated beams against each other, I did not use any fittings or beam shoes. It is important to screw at an oblique angle so the screw passes through as many growth rings as possible.
justusandersson: I don't think the foundation looks like it should for a relatively modern house. It seems amateurish (judging by the pictures). I wonder if it is reinforced. Dig a bit more to fully expose the foundation. If the ground is relatively stable (moraine, gravel, sand, firm clay), it should be possible to reinforce it. Then you should enlist the help of someone experienced in foundations. If the ground