Building Materials and Construction Technology
surris: Hello, It is quite common for this to happen sometimes and it should not be a problem to solve it, so you can rest assured :)
stenna: Gypsum plug HW Pro for single drywall, has anyone used it and can give a review?
Staffans2000: Not directly. But in my fair youth, I saw two blacksmiths weld two smoke pipes. They went up to the ceiling like snakes. Almost only bends everywhere. Staffans
Vilseiviken: The cabin has an attic where the insulation for the living area is located on the upper side of the ceiling. Above the glazed outdoor room, there is no insulation at all. The intention is to insulate with 20 cm and then lay a floor to use the space for cold storage. The problem is that the framework right there (70 mm) is too weak to walk on. I am looking to increase the load-bearing capacity of
joasag: Hello, In another thread on the forum, I've discussed moving a load-bearing post in a carport. I'm looking for this type of beam shoe, which rests on top of the beam and is also screwed into it. But I can't find this anywhere when I search around? [bild] Where can one find this? Thanks in advance!
TheImprovisor: I am about to complete an extension. It is finished up to insulation and batten. What remains are the interior ceiling, floor, and walls. How much do you guess it is worth waiting for price drops on materials (plywood, plasterboard, floor chipboard, and studs)? We are talking about 20 sqm, and it would be wonderful to get this done before winter.
useless: Tile adhesive usually contains additives to make it more elastic. In addition to that, it consists of lime, cement, and sand in well-chosen proportions like any lime mortar...
KungAnka: I can easily get hold of Hydraulic lime mortar C, but I assume it should be D? I assume the entire facade was originally done with regular lime mortar (E?). Should you prime with C even on revitered (reed mat, etc.) or use D directly? [bild] [bild]
jonaserik: With a larger door and strap hinges, it will always sag under its own weight, regardless of the naren meant to stabilize it; a nar should run from the lower hinge diagonally up to the upper corner. It usually doesn't turn out well anyway, so a wire with a turnbuckle pulled diagonally with attachment at the top hinge and down is a way to hold back the forces that will occur; it is essential that
olof63: Just wanted to update here, an inspector came to check whether the floor drain and slope were done according to industry standards. I had never questioned this, but the builder apparently thought it was important, and the report confirms that the floor is done according to the rules. However, my objection has been that they should have informed or consulted me about the change with the 22 mm
ArneTW: [citat] A little more information maybe? Where in the country? Log house? Timber frame? Brick? Basement? etc... /ATW
Sebastianz: @jonaserik What do you think about this? You seemed really knowledgeable about asbestos!
roli: [citat] No, a hole leads in moisture and wetness, which then reduces the distance to the reinforcement layer. If you seal it with anchoring compound or grouting when you attach your fixture, the hole is considered sealed.
gustavmia: Thank you for all the answers! We got in touch with a company that recommended covering all the stairs with some kind of paper that you lay on the floor when painting and tape it down so that it pulls up more when we walk on it. Then also wet wipe the floors and walls in the vicinity and then throw away the mop/cloths. We did that and are now waiting for the company to do a permanent cleanup.
mimik: Whatever you do, do not trust Ritz Sandström from Smålandsvillan. Had we done as he said (he personally checked on site), we would have built in the incorrectly installed pipe forever.
Huzzbutt: [citat] The important thing is probably that the floor can breathe; if the room is kept dry otherwise, there shouldn't be any problems during such a short period. Even completely non-breathable materials damage floors by not allowing moisture to escape.
Mapefre: Hi. Reading this old post and I'm a bit curious about how it ended. I have a wall in the basement that looks exactly like in your picture. Tear down the old one or try to repair it?
Stefan N: Spackle with fix. I usually apply a thin layer of primer so the paper doesn't absorb so quickly.
eco972: Hello! I'm planning an extension of a vacation house. Part of it will be an insulated glass room, and another part will be a two-story addition. For this, I want to create openings in the gable according to the red markings on the drawings. The wall elements on the gables have studs measuring 195x45. I couldn't find the roof truss plan, but I'm 99% sure it's a gable end with a truss resting on
tehvicke: Sounds reasonable - geothermal heating was installed in 2004, which is good. It had been used quite a lot for its lifespan (55k hours over 17 years) according to the service technician, but that sounds reasonable due to the insulation.
Kenson99: I am planning to build an extension to a 60s-style house with a gable roof, with a small addition featuring a gable roof on the long side. The extension will be part of an existing room, and I don't want any beam that lowers the ceiling height. XXX XXX XXX XXX XXX XXXHHHH XXXHHHH H = Wall plate X = Glulam beam We will open up an approximately 3.6-meter section on the long side of our house, and
justusandersson: I understand that, but then the space between the wet room wall and the outer wall must be ventilated. The best solution in wooden constructions is not to have any wet room walls at all but to use shower cabins and external wall protection, and to completely refrain from ceramic materials. Wet room walls last for 20 years, tiles for 1000+ years.
Villa vista: The angles feel a bit weak. How should the råspont be ventilated?
Utdelning: [citat] Transparent silicone. For example, illbruck wet room silicone (yes, it works outside).
BirgitS: [citat] Then you should contact the property manager/tenant association if it's a rental apartment, or the board if it's a condominium.
Utdelning: Yes, it looks normal. The Kärnvirke wood takes on a slightly more pink tone over time.
Huzzbutt: There are probably no good prices on lumber anywhere right now, maybe in a few years... Instead, aim to buy from a place that lets you return freely to minimize waste.
justusandersson: The proposal from @bossespecial is the only right one: New floor joists between the existing ones and glued and screwed unspiked chipboard on top. The additional joists ensure that the impact of point loads (e.g., someone walking) is distributed over a larger area. The chipboard also contributes to increased rigidity. The original joists are probably 3x7 inches (75x175 mm) on c/c around 750 mm.
PåTuriLivet: We are renovating the former residential house on the property, and under a part of it, perhaps 1/4 or 1/5 of the house, there is an old boiler room (used until the 1950s?). The rest of the house stands on rock/soil. I would like to furnish it and use it as a food and wine cellar. Is it possible, and does anyone know where I can find instructions on what to consider? Alternatively, share your own