Building Materials and Construction Technology
Snickarkirre: Either as anders07 wrote. Otherwise, if it works, you can saw off the boards right next to the pipe and remove the boards, then force the pipes up above the glesen. However, it's hard to tell from the pictures if they can handle it due to the height that the glesen and plaster build.
Lena Olofsson1: I got it up with salt and water! It worked
Kipa: [citat] That was kind of my reasoning at the beginning too, that it didn't really have a purpose, but I didn't quite dare haha. You usually assume people do things for a reason. I'll fix the truss when I get the chance and be cautious when I demolish the wall. Thanks for the help so far, let's see if I have a reason to get back.
jonko: [citat] No, but the question is whether it's necessary? Otherwise, maybe you can use a narrow pointing trowel to get mortar in where it's really narrow.
OS85: It feels quite obvious when you say it, many advantages that way! Thank you =)
Nygge72: [citat] Yes, I thought I had read somewhere that the bearing capacity was there. Too bad, otherwise that would have been an easy option.
KJD: To make it easier, you can: * Use a large barrel, 100l * Use a tiltable barrel, jointed, and with handles. * Use a spike roller for better leveling * Spike shoes to walk in the spackle without disturbing it. * Spackle with extra flow capacity (often more expensive) * Divide it into several sections, e.g., 2 for 10m2 (I have done 40 m2 myself this way, the drawback is that it involves a lot of
albatorsk: [citat] Ok, this looks a bit like an answer to question 2. I can resolve trimming even if I have to do it by hand. Do you have any thoughts on questions 1 and 3?
snuttjulle: If the person who installed them has done it correctly, they have drilled deep enough that you just need to tap them in. Sometimes they can be pulled out, but otherwise, tap them in and leave them there.
andersmc: [citat] I've encountered foam that was faulty. Whether they've been too old or frozen or something else, I don't know, but no foam came out of them. So maybe it's your cans that are the problem.
fidde888: I am building again this "hole" with a gate. The fence is the neighbor's and the blue-gray shed is ours. I need to have a gate so I can mow the grass outside the yard, otherwise, I would have put a fence there. Does anyone have an idea how to make a gate and how to attach it? Which way should the gate open and how can the "lock" be set? I am considering using hinges like the ones in the picture.
Robert-san01: [citat] A stud finder works great on such a thin wall. Otherwise, I would use a Duckfoot. I would say it's completely impossible to damage anything inside with that.
Rise: Hello, how did you solve it? Do you have any before and after pictures?
richardtenggren: I have nailed the installation layer in more than half the house soon, a few screws have been used just to simplify working alone :)
bellman83: Has the house collapsed yet?
sofftis: Now it's done, it took several weeks phew. I had to remove some plaster [bild] from the chimney side as well. Love the boxes that hold a ton.
oobum: I have good experiences with Milwaukee's MX4 4-cutter drill SDS-Plus MX4 drill – 4-cutter (milwaukeetool.eu)
Tovin: Thanks! Exactly the kind of answers I wanted. And awesome with a picture (y)
hempularen: I should have trusted the report. I've only heard of galvanic corrosion causing problems when it comes to copper against steel. At my childhood home, a galvanized downpipe was installed to receive water from a copper roof. The pipe wasn't in contact with the roof, it was just water with copper ions reaching the pipe. The pipe was completely worn out after 8 years, essentially destroyed. This was
ÉlPon: To question 1, this is what I meant if it's a better method? [bild]
Tompafix: [citat] Do you only have OSB on the walls? It's excellent to take down the OSB on one side and insulate before putting up drywall. If you're insulating for sound, drywall is better than OSB, preferably double layers.
psu: I have bought a house built in 1925. I would like to remove the staircase to the entrance and build a new one that goes straight from the front. Does anyone know how they used to build back in the day, are the stairs cast into the basement or were they made separately so they can be pulled away with an excavator or something similar? Alternatively, break away the mess... The drawing might not say
Pappa1986: Hello there I should have thought about this earlier but.... anyway, I've done an extension, there's about a 10 cm gap between the foundation and the floor joist that I need to insulate in a smart way. Does anyone have any tips? Trying to fit a narrower joist and attaching it further down could work with a bit of fixing and tweaking. Attaching sill paper to the joist which is then placed against
jonaserik: The next important thing is that the stacks are not placed against each other so that they cannot ventilate between them. A 5 cm gap between is good, achieved by regularly inserting a piece of wood against the stack behind it, it is locked in place by stacking more. I have plastic pallets, they don't rot, have a few left 12001200 mm.
Niklaspe: Discovered now upstairs in the storage that water has been dripping/condensing from the ceiling vent where the exhaust duct goes. Saw on the floor that there had been previous leakage, but it seems to happen very rarely. The only thing I can think of is that the warm humid air rises up towards the insulation which doesn't have a condensation barrier. Feel up there in the insulation that it's a