Here there's mojord and a rullstensås nearby, so the ground is quite acidic. And the tarp had its eyelets blown out anyway, so it was put to good use in another way 
eskerÅsa Lund said:
Here is mojord and an esker nearby, so it's quite acidic in the ground. And the tarp had its eyelets blown out anyway, so it came in handy in another way
something you use for lumpfish roe?
(joke)
a couple of cross bars and it will holdNorrtull said:
Doubtful if my roof can handle the snow
But I've now filled it with wood up to the roof, so it will be what it will be in February with all the snow on it.
Something like this, had my daughter with me yesterday and today so I just filled up with split wood. Planning to build something proper in the spring. But now it's time to start cutting again, though I still have a few troublesome giant logs from a spruce, 90cm in diameter, not fun to deal with. But one log does provide a lot of wood though.
take the saw, it's fastest..
Turn the log on its side.
Cut wedges that are large or small enough so that you don't have to split them again.
Do this all around the log and then just take the next one. It will soon be done.
And just carry and stack it up.
The least hassle..
Cut wedges that are large or small enough so that you don't have to split them again.
Do this all around the log and then just take the next one. It will soon be done.
And just carry and stack it up.
The least hassle..
When I've read about wood storage, I've read that it's good to have ventilation from underneath somehow and that some moisture can come from the ground. Of course, that doesn't automatically mean the wood will be bad if you don't have it. I guess it mainly applies if you don't have completely dry wood from the start.Maskintok said:Nice
will it be a big problem with ground moisture?
never had this even though my wood is directly on the ground in the sheds...
Or do you know better?
This is how I did it. Pallets to get air from underneath in case it gets damp, the shed is still quite open. The pallets are on garden slabs with sill membrane to protect the wood.
I have been selling and manufacturing firewood since childhood... I have used pallets before but there was no difference if the shed was well built and the wood at the bottom was reasonably dry.
The most important thing is that the stack can be blown through from all directions...
from underneath is important if the wood is to be stored for more than 1 season.
The most important thing is that the stack can be blown through from all directions...
from underneath is important if the wood is to be stored for more than 1 season.
Then it sounds like you have a pretty good handle on thingsMaskintok said:
We hope that our stockpile of firewood will last for several years.
Then maybe it's good to have tarpaulin under the concrete slabs and pallets under the firewood. It blows briskly through the pallets anyway, I've noticed
Then maybe it's good to have tarpaulin under the concrete slabs and pallets under the firewood. It blows briskly through the pallets anyway, I've noticed
AbsolutelyWe hope that our stock of wood lasts for several years.
Then maybe it’s good with a tarpaulin under the concrete slabs and then pallets under the wood. It blows briskly through the pallets anyway, I’ve noticed
it’s all about planning and how long you’re going to keep the wood lying around..
I, who burn out and sell the wood that’s in the shed.. have nothing underneath.. while my wood for the coming year is indoors.. And drying on.. With sparse walls... And blows underneath...
We have rather muddy soil that is often wet. When I've placed the wood directly on the ground, the wood in direct contact with the soil is wetter, with a significantly greater tendency for mold, etc. But it's not many logs per cubic meter that it affects.
A pallet eliminates that problem, even if it is small. And to some extent dries out the stack, since the wind can reach better. I haven't measured, documented, or checked, but to me, it feels right to do so.
Then it is more of a theoretical problem than a practical one, the important thing for getting really dry wood is to split it and let it dry for a long time (split before Easter, ideally 2 years of drying time). And that it is covered with a roof. I think a ventilated floor affects it minimally. Likewise, with or without walls. If there's slightly less energy in the wood, maybe it doesn't matter so much? I have pallets lying around, so they come in handy. I wouldn't buy new timber to build a ventilated floor in the woodshed.
I could imagine that a layer of gravel would also work well, to break the contact between wet soil and wood.
Nice pictures!
A pallet eliminates that problem, even if it is small. And to some extent dries out the stack, since the wind can reach better. I haven't measured, documented, or checked, but to me, it feels right to do so.
Then it is more of a theoretical problem than a practical one, the important thing for getting really dry wood is to split it and let it dry for a long time (split before Easter, ideally 2 years of drying time). And that it is covered with a roof. I think a ventilated floor affects it minimally. Likewise, with or without walls. If there's slightly less energy in the wood, maybe it doesn't matter so much? I have pallets lying around, so they come in handy. I wouldn't buy new timber to build a ventilated floor in the woodshed.
I could imagine that a layer of gravel would also work well, to break the contact between wet soil and wood.
Nice pictures!
The next important thing is that the stacks are not placed against each other so that they cannot ventilate between them. A 5 cm gap between is good, achieved by regularly inserting a piece of wood against the stack behind it, it is locked in place by stacking more. I have plastic pallets, they don't rot, have a few left 12001200 mm.