surris
Construction veteran
· Sverige
· 1 692 posts
surris
Construction veteran
- Sverige
- 1,692 posts
surris
Construction veteran
· Sverige
· 1 692 posts
surris
Construction veteran
- Sverige
- 1,692 posts
For rooms up to 30 m², you can mix the filler and distribute it yourself, whereas rooms larger than that should be filled with the help of a concrete pump truck.
* https://bolist.se/guide/flytspackling/
* https://bolist.se/guide/flytspackling/
Generally speaking, you can easily manage 10m2 by yourself. Then it depends on how thick you plan to pour. The thicker it is, the more buckets you'll need to mix, and there's a risk it starts drying in places. Personally, I find it easier with 2-3 masonry buckets at a time. It's a lot of running around with one bucket.J jacha said:
It’s 25mm that needs to be poured to embed floor heating coils in the hall on top of EPS concrete.Klodsmajor said:
Generally, you can handle 10m2 easily yourself. It's also somewhat controlled by how thick you plan to pour. The thicker it is, the more buckets you have to mix, and the risk that it starts drying in certain spots.
Personally, I find it easier with 2-3 masonry buckets at a time. There's a lot of running with one bucket.
Does it matter if it starts to set while you’re working?
It won't set too much on 10m2. Have everything well prepared. Good mixer and tray, easy to measure water. Wide notched trowel. I usually have it on a handle to reach well. Make sure the heating cable is well fixed so it doesn't float up anywhere.J jacha said:
When we extended the house, we poured self-leveling compound in our bathroom of about 13 sqm. My partner mixed and I poured and leveled it. We had two buckets for the compound, she mixed in one and I poured into the other. Then we were prepared with a bucket where we had measured the right amount of water. I recall we did everything in about two hours. When everything was leveled, it was just right to scrape around the local slopes near the floor drains.
Regardless of whether you need to level slopes or not, I recommend using level pins placed quite closely; I set mine with a 0.5m distance so there was always one near my 500mm wide trowel.
If you've done it before, you can probably handle it yourself, but I thought it was nice to have two people
Regardless of whether you need to level slopes or not, I recommend using level pins placed quite closely; I set mine with a 0.5m distance so there was always one near my 500mm wide trowel.
If you've done it before, you can probably handle it yourself, but I thought it was nice to have two people
To make it easier, you can:
* Use a large barrel, 100l
* Use a tiltable barrel, jointed, and with handles.
* Use a spike roller for better leveling
* Spike shoes to walk in the spackle without disturbing it.
* Spackle with extra flow capacity (often more expensive)
* Divide it into several sections, e.g., 2 for 10m2 (I have done 40 m2 myself this way, the drawback is that it involves a lot of measuring, cleaning, and tidying).
* Use spackle with longer "open time"
* Use a large barrel, 100l
* Use a tiltable barrel, jointed, and with handles.
* Use a spike roller for better leveling
* Spike shoes to walk in the spackle without disturbing it.
* Spackle with extra flow capacity (often more expensive)
* Divide it into several sections, e.g., 2 for 10m2 (I have done 40 m2 myself this way, the drawback is that it involves a lot of measuring, cleaning, and tidying).
* Use spackle with longer "open time"
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