Building Materials and Construction Technology
PGS70: [citat] The house was built in 1968. Can I put something on the inside to seal it?
AnnikaSta: Oops, you're right... The other metal is brass on the shelf.
justusandersson: Plaster can withstand being unheated, but may be a bit sensitive to moisture. Personally, I think plasterboards don't belong in more rustic environments. 6 mm board is still available. However, I don't know in which formats they come. A good alternative is 7 mm pine plywood that you just whitewash. The best is sheet material with natural hygroscopic (moisture-absorbing) ability.
Rickard.: [citat] The overlap is more precise today, but tape is still used quite sporadically on regular constructions. Overlaps that are clamped in one way or another are the best.
Harki: Hello! Does anyone have experience with light frame structures? Thinking of options like Masonite Beams and Hunton. Both sell pre-cut frames. How do these compare to a traditional frame structure in construction timber in terms of: - Stability - Durability - Assembly time - Price - Moisture safety
kulle: The hinge side is always set flush with the wall, then you add to the inside so that it also becomes flush with the wall.
kulle: The important thing is that the wood is dry, then you can use whatever you want.
DaDolly: [citat] If they have made a mistake and you plan to complain, it is important not to install the slab, but it sounds like you don't intend to go that route. A drawing and description of what is wrong, and you can surely get good advice.
Tompafix: [citat] No. It's fine to use fabric or boards in the ceiling. But the wind should not be able to find its way into the transition wall ceiling.
KJD: [citat] Ok, I find that Finja varm has Lambda value 0.07 W/(m · K) While for example, Combimix cm-630 has: Thermal conductivity 0.1322 W / (mK) Found a supplier that. Online charged 50% extra so it will have to be that one + temporary pause and no casting today. (Lucky there's no shortage of other projects).
neo11: [citat] Actually, you don't need to use mesh in the basement unless it is over different materials. And if you use base mortar A, you don't need any mesh at all. Since the mortar is so strong, it tears the mesh in any case. Skip using base mortar A altogether, and explain a bit how you're going to mesh. One doesn't use A mortar on walls or even indoors. It's used on plinths outdoors, is concrete.
Lilllen: I would turn the top side up. You shouldn't need tape. Lower the saw very slowly. Since the material in the trim is very thin, there's a risk that it might catch otherwise. I haven't cut such thin material in the miter saw, but if you clamp the trim between two pieces of wood on the underside and cut through everything, it probably reduces the risk of any catching. Keep in mind that it will
Christian.a: Hello. I have a thought. I have a central chimney stack in a 1960s house. There was an oil boiler until the early 90s. Subsequently an electric boiler followed by an air-to-water pump. Anyway, the chimney stack has a central chimney flue that's not so tricky to get approved, but fitting a wood boiler is a bit more complicated. The existing boiler (CTC EcoEl 1550 + an air-to-water pump) is located
KJD: [citat] btw my construction has previously been discussed and what I have is apparently called voter, and I've had a construction firm that advised against breaking up the slab. [citat] Additionally, I've realized that the lightweight concrete blocks in the walls rest on the rough slab, and the "fine concrete" layer is cast to that height. I have now removed the wall piece by piece and cast new
jonas_da: Hello everyone! I saw the spotlight about this system on LinkedIn and checked out their website. I think it seems really neat and extremely convenient. But I see some problems with the insulation technique; it looks like there should be a significant thermal bridge as it appears that there is a continuous element through the outer layers of the wall blocks. Otherwise, it seems really handy for
arkTecko: [citat] Doesn't it depend on the manufacturer? You can't refer to a specific instruction and claim they are universally applicable, can you? But of course, TS should search around until they find a product that works.
Henrik.woll: Yes, it is as it sounds, the underside or top side of something. Then there is usually, for example, ÖK+xx. Where +xx is the specified height from an established reference object.
Friskt kopplat: [citat] We've envisioned a kitchen without upper cabinets with a 70 cm deep countertop. We will likely extend an Ikea frame 10 cm from the wall. The wall behind the fridge is wider than in the pictures, about 96 cm, to fit a 70 cm or preferably slightly wider fridge/freezer. Would have liked to fit a 90 cm wide one, but that's too big. We plan to vent the stove hood through the wall. The black
SteelyDan: [citat] I think that's what they've priced at just under 7000.
Daizen: Thanks for all the help. Called Götenehus who built the house and got help from one of their designers, the max load after the cut was now at 104%, which meant that if we have a party upstairs and everyone stands in the corridor, there's a risk it could break. However, he said they've been quite conservative in their calculations. So, fortunately, we only need to do proper reinforcement. Happy
Demmpa: A blacksmith workshop should be able to manufacture gates and/or fences according to their own design. For example, the following company (albeit in the Kalmar region), https://www.sspkalmarab.se/
Julius Bohem: It is probably correct if you simplify it, but the flow from the living area is strongly limited. All rooms that have had their floors renovated have been meticulously sealed against the outer walls so that air does not move there. Some small leaks may exist, but it should still be more open to the crawl space from outside. I would assume that most of the airflow goes from outside into the crawl
Snickarkirre: Either as anders07 wrote. Otherwise, if it works, you can saw off the boards right next to the pipe and remove the boards, then force the pipes up above the glesen. However, it's hard to tell from the pictures if they can handle it due to the height that the glesen and plaster build.
Lena Olofsson1: I got it up with salt and water! It worked