Building Materials and Construction Technology
Hibbi: Hello! I'm looking for a structural engineer in the Uppsala - Gävle area who can calculate the relocation of a load-bearing partition wall and the possible reinforcement of the current structure. The idea is to remove built-in closets that zigzag in the partition wall so it goes straight. Replace a regular door with a sliding door (which will go in the partition wall), I probably need to install
Limträpappan: Hello builders! I need to enclose an apartment door as we have combined two apartments. The new fire compartment must not communicate between two stairwells, so one door will be closed with an EI60 rating. I screwed the door shut (solid wooden door from the 30s) and only built a wooden stud wall inside the old door frame with double drywall on the door side and OSB + drywall on the inside. 70 mm
HåkanV: Hello again, I've been googling further into how floors were historically constructed on concrete slabs, but haven't found any really good information. The tip about EPSCement seems good, but at the same time, I'm a bit concerned if it has the same properties as the existing fill material. A possible alternative I found was with weber, something called dolomite crush. Uppbyggnad med Weber
KnockOnWood: I don't have many overall pictures, but a few, and some viewpoints. We built a house in 2010 and installed horizontal paneling on all the interior walls except in the wet rooms, of course. Something like this: [bild] But we white-waxed it first as much as we could, which unfortunately didn't cover everything... Some pictures: First the white wax: [bild] And then a few pictures of the walls:
Impulsiv optimist: Calexico wood online... I visited a local sawmill first to look at similar ones. [citat]
cffol: Sounds like it should just be a matter of casting up to level then!
Hammare&Spik: Feel free to check out my new thread that I started today. You might have some good advice to give me there. The thread is called: How much paint and rust do you need to sand off?
JJL - Ljungen 4: [citat] Oh, are you sure it's pine, maybe mixed? I've considered veneered, but I've only seen it with very thin veneer, 0.6, and I think that at least the kitchen cabinets will take quite a beating inside with pots and pans being moved in and out :) Also, I don't like MDF anymore, I've cut enough of it. What do you think about laminated wood, in thinner dimensions, is there a risk that it's only
Byggglädje: If it stays for a long time, it's good if you can keep it taut. Like battens and ratchet straps. Lying straight up and down, they'll turn into boat timber.
Jotre: [citat] It helps a lot, thank you so much for the help.
Fixerskan: [citat] Thank you very much! If you were satisfied, please feel free to recommend the company to me in a PM. :D
GardenMinion: Hi! It would be fun to hear how it has gone with this project? We are in the process of building a guest house of just under 30 square meters in southern Skåne, and are also considering hemp.
nikasp: I am going to paint and I don't have the energy to remove 40 decking boards, so I plan to saw everything off and install a border board instead, like the one I've placed along the facade in the picture. Any tips on an efficient way to attach approximately 110 mm of free-standing joist to the wall so I have something stable to screw the border into? I'm thinking angle brackets and anchor screws,
Mekstr: Thank you for your response. I took 145 on each side and 3 rows of kottlingar. It seems stable.
Patrizio: Hello! I will be renovating my apartment in a building from the late 1930s. Problem: A new kitchen (tiles, and countertop and wall cabinets) will be installed on a so-called Kloasongvägg (reed and wire on a frame of planks covered with plaster). There is also quite a large gap between the plaster and the planks in my apartment (I estimate about 50-70mm). Question 1: If I do not want to tear down
Tornhuset: Thanks for the reply! Yes, wood fiber buffers moisture, while stone wool is completely permeable. At first, I thought about taping, but I might go over with sealant from the outside if I experience drafts, because the most critical place is where the boards meet the planks that hold them up, and it would be a heck of a lot of taping from the inside if I have to do it around in each compartment.
Burtraskkutaren: Without knowing where the question fits best, we're trying here. Considering the most sensible construction for an electric wheelchair storage with "extra space". The thoughts are along the lines of a log cabin, like the picture/link but extended by about 1.5m so that the storage becomes the extended space. http://www.solbostugan.com/sv/produkter/solbostugan/-solbo-149--pid102.htm It would then
raveper: You can use wire or perforated tape to support it.
zana kader: Heard a few different answers so I'm a bit unsure.
FGLIN: [citat] Above a certain roof pitch, you can reduce the snow load; I think it's linear between 30 and 60 degrees. I don't think the standard differentiates between tile and metal, even though such a difference probably exists in reality, and tiles are significantly heavier than metal. But it's still the snow load that's the big factor. Additionally, my parents had a shed with a corrugated plastic
Lindgrenski: [citat] I have nothing in the corners except for the horizontal battens, so for that reason, I don't feel I need them vertical. But I chose to keep them anyway, mostly because they are nailed and too cumbersome to remove. :)
16386: Your gray boxes make it more difficult to read. The top one even removes all text underneath/behind the box. The left box states that both the outer wall and inner wall are load-bearing. In the lower right box, it says the load-bearing inner wall is like stair enclosure, i.e., the text above. If I had to guess, I would say that the "rear" inner wall, which separates the kitchen, is load-bearing
cpalm: [citat] Then you probably have to compensate for the fact that it consists of 75% wood and not cast iron?
karlbrutal: Hello. How did it go for you? We heard the same from our contracting company that Pergo says 75%, which in practice excludes new constructions. Unfortunately, we have already purchased 160m2 of Pergo laminate, so it's a bit late for us to back out now...
Jockose: After X number of attempts and swear words, the solution came. We took 2 nails and simply pried out the plugs. This was about 10 seconds before the angle grinder came out.
vincentt: 110 cm between the posts, but the maximum is 150 cm. Can warp and also bend (in/out, up/down) and then the screws break. Uploaded a drawing with measurements. There are two different measurements because the short side is higher. We'll see if it was included. It's a PDF.
Rickard.: [citat] It's almost the same, just that flexi has a soft side to better fit in wooden walls that are not always perfect, and the other is adapted for steel studs so they are a bit wider for the same cc measurements since the steel studs are mm wider compared to the wooden studs' cm.
tergo: molly M5/52 should be able to fasten 28mm material thickness without changing screws
useless: I agree with previous writers. It is Treetex where they've puttied over imperfections.