Building Materials and Construction Technology
kidon: [citat] If you leave the panels alone, you won't have any problems with them; the danger comes if you start tearing them down.
arkTecko: As Claes said, floor chipboard that is glued properly so that there are no air gaps (and seal all joints against edges/in walls) and then a heavy floor, gypsum is the best choice. That way you get a good reduction in sound transmission. After that, I think it becomes expensive for relatively marginal effect. Possibly double layers of gypsum might be worth it if there is space and it is important
Simmeman: [citat] Thanks for the clarification. About 20m for incoming water and 12m for geothermal heating in total. Now I have a bit more idea about what to look for.
Alexander Åkesson: Also screwed new floor joists onto the old ones as you probably see
Dr Benz: [citat] no worries. We have done the same with KC mortar in the foundation wall, and it seems to be really good. Soon it's time for macadam, but water and electricity must be taken care of first. thanks for clarifying about the board. It felt strange to leave it in the mix so to speak…
hus520: "Concrete is a natural product and lime is a component in the concrete. Efflorescence can occur and they pose an aesthetic issue. Efflorescence is not grounds for complaint. They do not compromise the product's durability, but are a natural part of the concrete curing process. Typically, the efflorescence wears away after a shorter or longer period depending on the strength of the attack and the
Rammega: I think so too. The 220 rule is about 10 m. So it gets help in several places to relieve.
Evilerm: Hello good people! I was going to fix (sand/paint) the exterior panel under the window but noticed it's in much worse condition than I thought. I'm going to replace that entire section instead; currently, it's tongue and groove panels, 80-90mm with asphalt board behind, but I can't find any panel in the same size in today's offerings. To my question, I need some tips on which panels would fit
TechChad: When I lived in an apartment, I removed a wardrobe. It wasn't glued but rather worse, as it was nailed, likely into the concrete wall. It was hell to remove; I hung my whole body on the hammer and hit it. Eventually, one nail at a time came loose, and with it, a large chunk of concrete came off from each nail.... Luckily, I was going to paint anyway, so I had to fill those up. The tenant who came
zarkov: Carve the edge of the drywall so that about half of the wooden stud is visible. Place a new stud just inside the sliding door track and put up a new piece of drywall to cover the holes. Don't forget to tell your electrician that there is an incomplete joint between the electrical conduit and hose underneath (or even better, get someone to fix it before you put up the new drywall, it's not really
Anna_H: [citat] You're right, the square is right in the middle of the hobby room on that drawing! I should have seen that! Regardless, it works fine where it's supposed to be too.
Davion: Hello everyone, Quick question.. I am renovating the entire house right now, and I've reached the kitchen. I'm soon going to put up another layer of boards on the existing layer of particle boards that are still in place. They remain because I was methodical with the dismantling. Anyway - I don't want (unless someone has good arguments that might convince me otherwise) to have drywall as a second
Amatörsnickaren: Worked like a charm - fits "rock-solid"...
eztoril: Hello again, I'm wondering what type of wooden post I can/should use? The floor beam that will rest on this post is about 215x50mm. Therefore, I'm thinking that a 70x70 mm would be a suitable dimension. But then we come to load-bearing capacity - there is everything from C14 to the expensive laminated beam. What would be sufficient in my case? Feel free to link to a product. Best regards, Martin
sinuslinus: [MEDIA=youtube]peQ0ggAueRY[/MEDIA] Here you see the principle with gipsbruk.
Carl Johansson: Became a Weber hydraulic lime mortar after good advice from a local dealer
Metamatik: Good threads need to be revived. Check this one out. Absolutely superb and works excellently with heavy benches. Easy to assemble. Built these for a CNC bench that is heavy and requires stability but sometimes needs to be moved. [MEDIA=youtube]tR_wtVE4_qQ[/MEDIA]
byggeskafram: We plan to do the same thing. Is a building permit required for such a box?
människa: Thank you After talking with the seller at our wood supplier, who is an old carpenter (old school, so I already knew what he would say :crysmile:) it will be an air gap with a ventilated ridge. So now I'll let this go and move on :) It was fun to follow your discussion
fangalid: Drill holes in the beam and attach the rings with a shackle
Lindgrenski: [citat] Of course, you do it that way, I've even done so with regular walls when insulating. :) Both 1200 and 900 are available now, but the insulation is most common for cc60 so I'll go with that.
scareman: Hello, I know there are many threads with questions about load distribution, but the circumstances are always so specific that it's difficult to draw conclusions on your own. Therefore, I am creating this tailored thread, although it addresses what is likely a common problem. An extension is to be added to a rectangular house with a gable roof, measuring 13.5x8.5 meters. The extension will be
nino: [citat] Yes, it is, the northern part But I'll happily drive
Derbyboy: Check the old drawings of the house and you'll see where the pipes are located. I went to some kind of archive and accessed the drawings. It might have been called the stadsbyggnadsarkivet?
Anonymiserad 184001: [citat] At the same time, the indoor humidity levels are low because we have FTX. An air gap between the wall and PIR through glue strings at maybe 5 mm that drains straight into the drainage if anything should still condense. Flexfix tile adhesive with vertical setting for the air gap above theoretically holds 100 tons/m2 (1 MPa). Assume one hundredth practically, that's still 1 ton/m2. Then,
16386: Your guess should be correct. Similar things can often be seen on older drawings, especially by fireplaces like tiled stoves.
MrJay: [citat] We've considered that idea, but I think it would create a thermal bridge since both the walls and the edge elements are insulated.
Larsa: Yes, drive it into the walls too