Building Materials and Construction Technology
Wittlock: There are sheet metal studs with "foam rubber" that are well-suited for use against ceilings and floors. They provide a tight fit and offer a better grip than, for example, a wooden stud does against a wooden floor.
OJO: I myself have been thinking about building a stand like the one described in this video: [MEDIA=youtube]2EQox84Xpzg[/MEDIA] The guy is a boat builder, so he probably knows how to build something sturdy!
z_bumbi: May I guess that the boiler was removed more than 5 years ago and not replaced with radiators, ventilation, and/or a dehumidifier? As long as you have a heat source that extracts air, the house manages humidity from outside, but when the boiler disappears, the humidity builds up. Drainage is nice, but a good dehumidifier and a radiator are cheaper, especially since the floor is not drained.
anders07: [citat] Yes, the main thing is to remove everything loose and "roughen up" what is stuck.
Peter_Bromma: [citat] Not an expert, but guessing it's recently pressure-treated. When I've installed freshly pressure-treated decking, liquid has come up at every screw. There should be a label attached somewhere where you can see when it was treated, but I don't think it could be anything else when we're talking NTR-A. Heavy to work with, but otherwise more malleable when it's wet. Make sure to store them
FKARLSSON: It should work to just move the rule out ~100mm I suppose? [citat] Considering just moving the rule out so nothing is closer than 100mm to the chimney. Do you think you can let 100mm gypsum "hang" between the last rule and the chimney?
Oldboy: Polish, polish, polish. Preferably both the inside and the outside, so it becomes tight, robust, and fireproof, and can stand for 100 years without maintenance, kind of. I suspect that it also becomes both cheaper and faster. It is, of course, fine to cover the outside with a wooden panel on top.
Huddingebo: Glue, e.g., PL200 and 100-120mm screws in the rules. That's what I would have used.
ricebridge: Everything helps to a greater or lesser extent. Getting it completely silent is almost impossible, especially when retrofitting in an existing construction. Just as you said, you have to weigh the cost and effort against what you want, can, and will achieve. Feel free to install double layers of gypsum board with staggered seams if there is room.
olofh: Set up along the stairs a few weeks ago, thought it was quite difficult material to work with but tried to use the plunge saw as much as possible. Was thinking about a Japanese saw for the finer details but didn't have one at home [bild]
Patrik V.: It's easier to put full boards under the stairs, so it becomes completely tight.
Peter2400: [citat] I would use this type of machine, much more control and more ergonomic than an angle grinder. But an angle grinder will suffice if the surfaces are smaller. https://www.bauhaus.se/renovator-rex120c-1300w-inkl-syntetborste-remsborste?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyZLSrvGQ_gIVEt2yCh1GqwlrEAQYASABEgKEFvD_BwE#yotpo-recension
Dan1891: Good then! But Moelven's door trim was even more different than what you have now :) But, maybe it will still work?
Hemmasnickarn85: [citat] Thanks, then it will probably be a new stove and chimney later!
Mjärn: [citat] Ok, so there's no other way than to fill it in then?
Kalarne: Nine years later! Sitting in the same boat you were in. What did you polish with and how is the result nine years later?
MrJay: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/vilken-fogmassa-till-bleck.151278/
AJ82: [citat] It sounds convenient if it solves the problem. I would also have chosen felt carpet, but we have cats that like to use such surfaces as vomit/scratch places.
TeroM: [citat] Yes, but you need to find a built-in kit for 70 mm studs. That's actually what I have; 95 mm as I said is the finished width of the opening so the cassette is 70 mm.
cpalm: No, it is at least the daily average temperature that is meant. But I would wait until it is guaranteed frost-free throughout the entire curing process. Towards the end of May in Stockholm if you want to be completely sure.
Ulf1: [citat] Gypsum is not an option. It seems like cellulose has good sound properties. And making holes in the walls' upper parts in several places is not a big problem. Patch and cover with moldings afterward.
raveper: I think I paid 11 and did everything myself. So it's probably quite okay.
guggen: Regular wind barrier works well. I have personally installed new floors by applying wind barrier against the sleeper bottom and then packing sawdust. Warm and nice.
Nygge72: [citat] Hi, I haven't tried yet. What I'm a bit worried about is how they hold up in UV light (though they should be fine under the deck, which will be in shade), or when it gets cold and snow accumulates on it. I think you'll manage it brilliantly. If you dig away the topsoil layer, then lay a piece of ground cloth, put some "stone dust" under the plates so you can adjust the "rough height," and
b431: [citat] Thanks for your response. I mostly think it will be more energy-efficient by installing a vapor barrier, especially now when you get a bit better ventilation. But I'm afraid you might cause more harm than good by making such changes...
Aron Roger: [bild] I would guess that the floor structure is built like this example. Quite standard
Spikotrix: [citat] Scent-sensitive person with infection and allergy issues moving in. Hence, gutted to the frame. Considering the order of roof-walls-floor during demolition, then removing the metal facade and insulation outside the barrier. Lastly, I'll take the moisture barrier. Reconstruction: External insulation, New floorboards. Moisture barrier for walls and ceiling. Then 45mm installation layer