I am in the process of building a workshop and have built all the walls with lecablock without bonding mortar. This results in gaps here and there, and since the workshop will primarily be used for welding, cutting, and grinding, I would like to have an interior surface that is tight.
Additionally, the walls will be clad with wood paneling on the outside (purely for aesthetic reasons), so I would prefer that no sparks pass through the gaps and settle on the inside of the outer paneling.
Can someone explain how this wall should look in cross-section? Something like:
FROM OUTSIDE TO INSIDE
- wood paneling
- battens
- membrane
- lecablock
- battens
- sheet metal/drywall/whatever can be used
Am I thinking wrong, or will I be building in a lot of favorable moisture accumulation areas? The premises will be somewhat heated, about 12-15 degrees.
Additionally, the walls will be clad with wood paneling on the outside (purely for aesthetic reasons), so I would prefer that no sparks pass through the gaps and settle on the inside of the outer paneling.
Can someone explain how this wall should look in cross-section? Something like:
FROM OUTSIDE TO INSIDE
- wood paneling
- battens
- membrane
- lecablock
- battens
- sheet metal/drywall/whatever can be used
Am I thinking wrong, or will I be building in a lot of favorable moisture accumulation areas? The premises will be somewhat heated, about 12-15 degrees.
Polish, polish, polish.
Preferably both the inside and the outside, so it becomes tight, robust, and fireproof, and can stand for 100 years without maintenance, kind of.
I suspect that it also becomes both cheaper and faster.
It is, of course, fine to cover the outside with a wooden panel on top.
Preferably both the inside and the outside, so it becomes tight, robust, and fireproof, and can stand for 100 years without maintenance, kind of.
I suspect that it also becomes both cheaper and faster.
It is, of course, fine to cover the outside with a wooden panel on top.