Building Materials and Construction Technology
karlmb: [citat] No. But people who work rationally.
Testarn: Is it clear from the assembly instructions whether it should be mounted at the height of the finished floor or not? The pocket frame I installed before Christmas (from Swedoor) had a bottom piece that was screwed into the floor, and I had to install a support on the concrete slab to reach the same height as the finished parquet on either side of the wall. Then the "inner edge" wasn't screwed in
Tompafix: [citat] Yes, good question. The gypsum shouldn't rest against the concrete slab anyway. I thought you were the one who built it this way, so I didn't think to ask why you did it this way :rofl:
BuildersBend: [citat] I laid a 45mm thick pine floor and waxed it with linseed oil wax. It's still nice after almost 10 years of use. There are 30 large barrels with plants that are messing around. Just need to sweep it off. It's possible to mop it as well.
Tjrex: There's a difference in that, yes. There are baseboards, for example, Steni has them.
Snickarkirre: Now, perhaps you have already bolted the cabinet. But if you're worried about drilling deep into the plate, you can use expansion anchors instead. Then you only need to drill about 50mm depending on what size you choose. It's stated that you need the right tool to fasten the sleeve, but it works with something like a drill bit or a rebar that fits into the sleeve without damaging the threads.
Brejj: [citat] but at 5000mm it seems to require 630mm on glue-laminated timber with 10mm "flex". So glue-laminated timber is probably ruled out. Might be a steel beam with 3 supports.
Ken: [citat] Oh, you mean instead of the "limträbalk" (don't know the english word for it). I was thinking about the poles holding it up. I already bought one now, 315 x 115, but thanks anyways.
Räknenisse: An old croft foundation? I would say that doesn't even count as a hole in that context...
Greggen: [citat] Showing might be difficult perhaps. But in the middle of the bedroom floor, there is a peak. Large enough to be felt but small enough that I took a chance with a laminate floor where I glued the joints for it to hold. It has held up nicely for over a year now. If I place a 120mm pass on it and press down on one side, it differs by about 10-15mm or so. The peak of the "bump" runs along the
sturnus: [citat] Unfortunately... The geometry in Sketchup has wrongly oriented surfaces (the dark grey-blue ones). Select one of the correct surfaces (white) then right-click and select set surfaces. If you grouped objects and you should, you need to repeat this for each group/component. After that it will be "toppen" This one is "toppen" ;) [bild]
Trixern: [citat] Hi, I think I have the same problem. Did you solve it?
AnnaHeart_74: [citat] You need to ask the association if you can tear it down, as it may be about how big the cottage is allowed to be. I'm in that situation right now as my brother rebuilt without permission, and now I have to build it back again.
Jonatan79: You should scrape off loose fix, render/cast a smooth surface and then buy real outdoor fix.
Fadai: If you're not insulating the floor, gravel and plastic are sufficient. Then you can put up joists and lay floorboards on top. You might even dig away some of the soil so you're not building much in height.
Rickard.lj: Try to maybe rent a concrete grinder and remove everything, then prime properly and on tiles, and it will probably be good.
tensiden: [citat] Yes, now that I see the pictures, I'm wondering if I shouldn't fix that a bit. It turned out a bit too much like "we'll do as it was before"... Otherwise, half of my life is focused on challenging old traditions and trying to think new, so why not here...
lillespillevinken: I've reconsidered the parquet. It's probably best to just cut the parquet so that the wall stands on the slab everywhere, and then resolve the seam with a joint / strip / tile.
guggen: [citat] Plaster of a suitable type is usually used, e.g., c plaster mortar.
Adam.A: [citat] Yes, I will actually investigate that and see if it's possible to do something similar considering that the baseboard seems to be lower as mentioned in the thread above. I have a vent guy coming over tomorrow to possibly see if an air vent can be installed to get some circulation.
Avemo: [citat] The doors I replaced were spray painted. I believe it was done in 2004 when the previous owner renovated the kitchen after a fire. It wasn't a perfect result either. And it was definitely not durable. It was worn down to the primer in many places. Moreover, the appearance of factory-painted MDF was not what I was after.
Manganbangan: [citat] Curious about what type of protimeter you use. [citat]
r3jonwah85: [citat] I think at least a hole has to be made to get to the beams, there is a semi-floating new inner-ceiling underneath that is from 2007 or 2008 when they refurbished the kitchen, contractors then added a new inner ceiling on the floor below, and unfortunately all of that structure is attached to the old one with the current skewed levels which is why the crack between wall and ceiling showed
cpalm: [citat] Yep, Wellit. I have it in a couple of places too. Seems to be a good material in that it has a decent lambda value, stays fresh over time, and doesn't cause any moisture problems or the like. However, flammability is mentioned as a disadvantage.
_KirderF_: Is the strip at the bottom sealed with silicone at the top edge?