Building Materials and Construction Technology
jonaserik: A set screw from the side usually means that the part is threaded. A large adjustable wrench with possibly a cloth in between might work, so no marks are left on the ring.
LoweW: [citat] With plywood on the inside, 45x45 should do. The trickiest part will probably be the bottom if you're also going to have wheels on it. Good luck & share pictures when you're done (y)
somesundaymorning: Thank you both, it was possible to knock it out with kloss.
andreascarlsson: Have personally spent an unhealthily large amount of time on theory about this, and unfortunately, the only sensible thing is to scour the internet, books, and newspapers. https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=bygg+en+altan&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=build+a+porch …then it's just about ordering wood, details, and tools and starting to build.
Dublin: Or you go all-in on the building conservation track and create a period-typical plastered (kloasong) wall. https://www.instagram.com/p/BrPW_ttghhm/
calvin82: Have thought further myself. It has to work considering the limited use at the cabin. Might use a slightly lower stilt, possibly 22mm (mostly to use some timber I already have).
Mjolnir: Old thread but... I have always placed gypsum directly against the floor when it fits to the millimeter against the ceiling. Then I finish the floor 10 mm from the gypsum wall, covered by a regular 12/15 mm skirting board. On the other hand, I don't have floors with a huge span, at most about 4x6 meters, so I don't think it requires the world's largest movement joint.
rispalt: Yep, I'm on the Latex track, strengthened by your feedback. A little worried about remaining silicone residues on tiles, have managed to remove most of it with hard work. Probably need to use silicone remover and try to get rid of any (likely) residues. Thanks!
ricebridge: Well, lecablocks are not intended to replace the insulation, but rather the framework/structure. So it's a bit like comparing apples and oranges. Instead, build a narrower leca wall with insulation behind it, so you get both.
Frasse07: [citat] Approved installation with maximum heat exchange. [bild]
Anders.83: I ended up splitting some studs and bracing between the pipes. Even if the dimensions aren't ideal, I think they still provide some relief. Let's just keep our fingers crossed that it works in the long run. Thanks for all the responses.
Wadersss: Hello, I have a chimney in the house that has been treated so it doesn't dust, but it has a very red tone. Is there a way to treat it so that it gets a more industrial feel?
J OReilly: [citat] Interested in this specific part too! Update Anton? Joakim
olotor: Or studs on the two walls and legs between the machines.
calvin82: Yes, that's what I was thinking. I was preferably considering using a duk instead.
murtland: Hmm yes, that sounds reasonable of course. Ok thanks, back to the drawing board.
guggen: Normally, you would have a usage and embed a stoss where the pipe is attached or cast the whole thing in place. Feels like it has never been properly secured before. The stove kit will probably work well too. Whether you need to refill depends on how much filling there is, and it's hard to know. I would probably make my way up and take a look when the weather improves.
mexitegel: You can start by treating the joints with water glass instead, it's both cheaper and significantly less work. Water glass is a product that penetrates and reacts with the lime, creating a hard and essentially waterproof surface. I just have to add that it's a very beautiful staircase :).
useless: Since it is supposed to lie against the ceiling, you only need to calculate the rungs themselves, right? A 50 cm long stick resting on supports at both ends and loaded with a point load from a foot in the middle is one of the simplest load cases to calculate.
Skodic: Aha, now I get it. For stair railing. Found a few among a bunch of other clutter in the garage. Thanks.
partysvensken: [citat] It is a former oil boiler, but now district heating is installed.
petterovski: Maybe it's good to take a 1200 board so you get it over 3 wall studs. Add another piece at 500mm above and splice together with a strip that you place behind and screw into.
pepparpajen: [citat] Yes, I guess you can just fill in on the easy cover if it looks uneven afterward..? But do you think the strips will hold as they appear?
PappasHammare: So it was adjustments again. Currently renovating or rather completely rebuilding the upper floor. I've been trying to find a constructor for a long time! I live in the middle of Skåne (snow zone 1.5) but there doesn't seem to be one here. Spoke with someone in Lund but they wanted 5000 just to come out and see IF they could help, and nothing would come out of it for that cost. Also felt like