Building Materials and Construction Technology
erik211: What do you mean by "come into contact with it"? What it's about is the bjälklag between the house and the basement.
z_bumbi: It is possible to glue/mortar a retaining wall of paving stones if you want it sturdier. I can't make out what's what in the picture, but if the slope is a bit larger, you will need quite large concrete slabs to get a sufficiently large part below ground.
volvo51: Fill the hole with some hardening compound, tap in the plug, let it harden.
cpalm: I also think it's the easiest way. Although pin screw expanders with the projection you need do exist, they are hardly something you can easily find on the shelf.
ByggaByggahus: Planning to convert our carport into a garage, but two of the carport's three walls lack insulation. There is a wind barrier in the walls. Total 40 sqm room. How can you add insulation in the walls without tearing down the interior walls? Is spray insulation possible? What does it cost?
AndersS: Forgot to mention that we have a half-meter thicker pipe with a stop at the top that we slide over the slats, for appearance.
sinuslinus: [citat] It only works on inner corners. In your case, it is a compound angle. The simplest way is to set the saw at 45 degrees and simultaneously tilt the blade at the angle the floor slopes. Then, it becomes easier for both you and those you ask for help to turn the test piece the right way.
Mjärn: [citat] You can't just go to a restaurant and taste the sauce on the plate and then demand that they replace the sauce, can you?
AmatörDonaren: [citat] Absolutely, if I go that route, I'll probably implement such a solution. Of course, it means there won't be any insulation in it, but it's a significantly smaller area than the entire element. However, with that solution, I risk hitting the element with a kitchen drawer and might have to move the entire kitchen a bit, so I lose that advantage, which is actually a quite desired advantage.
BosseHansson: It will probably work to apply spackle directly on the expanding foam. Alternatively, you could buy cellplast and cut out the shape to press it in. The expanding foam might need to be shaped afterwards unless you are very experienced in using it.
Anonymiserad 358496: [citat] Nice work, nothing to be ashamed of! :)
Chirre: I am going to put sandstone on a concrete wall and am now wondering if I should water the concrete first or if it should be dry? Has anyone also used Cemix Rockfix for this subject? Grateful for answers.
BillyMcByggsson: I have just built a bunch of planter boxes out of untreated spruce. As soon as the last screw was in, it started raining and continued all night. I have a water-based wood oil. Question: When can I oil the wood? I don't really have the option to wait too long as this is at the summer house. (the insides of the boxes will be covered with Platon moisture insulation mat) Thanks for the help!
nimhed: [citat] I'll just have to test that. I'm thinking they're quite old and brittle, so I'm hopeful that it will work. You definitely want to avoid using the angle grinder if possible.
Jiji: Treetex can definitely absorb odors and continue to smell even if the source of the odor is gone, but it could very well be something else that's causing the smell too. We had a very small spot of moldy insulation in a floor that was the source of a bad odor. It didn't always smell, and it was completely impossible to determine where the smell was coming from. At first, we thought it was from old
joppz: How did it go? I have exactly the same situation in a bathroom.
Dowser4711: Yes, using a ledger is primarily cheaper, simpler, and faster, which is why it's often used if there's enough space. However, it increases the height significantly more, so if you want or need a lower solution, joist hangers are a good option. As long as it's done correctly, both solutions are equally durable.
Dowser4711: I have a corresponding attachment, but with plastered wall. The beams go in parallel with the floor joists on the corresponding floor level and are screwed in (or maybe nailed, it was a few years ago since I last opened the floor) about one and a half meters in.
Katner: We have gateposts that are likely built from masonry blocks. The posts were plastered about 15-20 years ago, but the plaster has now started to crack and fall off. We want to refresh the posts properly but are having trouble finding craftsmen for such a "small" job, and we know absolutely nothing about concrete, plastering, etc. Today, we knocked off what was loose, but we hear there are other
prototypen: Bark your branches so they dry, and they will last throughout your children's childhood. Protte
Bo arnold: Probably an old floorboard had a carpet made of paper, the underside of which was tarred and stained the floor. Nothing dangerous, have seen a lot of this in old houses.
Johan Sjöro: Anyone who can give me a "belt and braces" method for building this? Thankfully, I only laid about 10 stones, so not much lost. However, I do get a bit anxious when I have to try again. And is there a good way to test that you've succeeded that doesn't involve waiting until next year? In the worst case, you might have to hire someone who knows what they're doing, but it would be fun to get it
Davion: I built a wooden deck on a concrete/stone slab (patio). It feels like it's the same principle here. It has gone excellently. I just had tar paper between the joists and the concrete. I inspect it every year and it looks excellent, so it should work well for you too.
Rikards..: [citat] Thought it looked a bit sparse in the first picture :D
42-: Hello, In the laundry room, I have a concrete platform that the washing machine and dryer stand on. The old dryer broke, so I bought a new one, but I didn't check properly and it turned out I bought a giant dryer. So now I need to extend the platform by 10-15 cm on each side for the dryer to fit. I've never really worked with anything like casting, what do I need to do to make it durable? Can I
Rackarnsunge: Was there a roof? Do you have any answers to the questions you asked?
Åsa Lund: Boracol Probably doesn't remove what is already there? Possibly preventive against new fungus. Actually don't remember The most important thing for the future is to ensure that the conditions for the fungus do not arise again. That is, no new water damage
zarkov: I have removed damaged plaster in what will eventually become my office to prepare for the electrician, and under the plaster on the exterior wall, there is a shiny metallic paper, which I assume is the old vapor barrier. Should I tape all the tears and nail holes, or should I take it down as well and replace it with plastic? The house was built in 1968 and has FTX ventilation.