Building Materials and Construction Technology
z_bumbi: If it's only 10-12 square meters and you still need to replace 1 square, it's best to replace all the paper at once. A water leak in the next few years will feel very unnecessary.
Rolferts123: I have taken over my parents' house built in 1902 in wood, which has since been covered with plaster and asbestos cement panels 300X600 (overlapping). Now several panels have fallen off, as well as plaster. So I need to do something. I have received a building permit to remove the asbestos, add insulation, and put up a lock panel. But in hindsight, I am considering finding something more
Ted Hörman: Hello! I'm in the process of plastering the interior walls of a newly built Ytong house. But I'm a bit unsure about reinforcing the plaster; is this something that is necessary? There seem to be divided opinions on this. Of course, it gets a bit more complicated to incorporate mesh than just applying 8mm and smoothing it out, so what would the steps look like in that case?
bossespecial: If good resources are available, it's at least as easy to hire someone remotely(y)
pdov: [citat] Hope it goes well for you. Feel free to post a picture or two of the result, it could help others who find the thread in the future.
cpalm: [citat] The product in my picture is "real" wood wool, yes, just as it has always looked and still looks today. And, to my knowledge, it has never contained asbestos. https://traullit.se/
MrJay: [citat] Always amusing with new users responding in threads that are about 10 years old where the original poster (OP) was last active several years ago.. Welcome.
kniv: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/forums/isolering.14/
Andre.k: [citat] Hi. I placed wooden strips as spacers behind the sheet metal.
yonna: I had the pergola/(in my case a) frame structure not attached to the facade but with a couple of cm gap. I was mostly worried about cracking in the plastered facade. It has worked excellently these years. The additional cost was just a number of extra posts with cast foundations. Since my construction required heavy load for sailcloth roof near the coast, this was sensible. But maybe over-kill
andreasö: Yes, exactly, it doesn't seem to be a common construction at all. But from what I've heard from older people around here, it was considered a very good construction at the time. Built in the 50s but with a U-value like a house from the 80s, they've said. I have no idea myself. Right now, it seems like we're leaning towards installing it the same way it was before, but I'm not quite confident in
cpalm: If it happens again, another (stupidly obvious) tip is to put the machine in reverse, if there is one. But if you unfortunately end up right at the edge of a reinforcing bar, it can be game over and may end with the drill eventually breaking.
Anonymiserad 170696: Blast the metal clean and apply a proper rust protection before repair.
amoreex: After much hemming and hawing, I went today to pick up floor chipboard while I had the trailer at home... Since the last short piece is set. A bit of insulation and some things around remain before the floor can be laid.
Stefan1972: The end cap for the pipe is probably available from plumbing sellers, but the plate you screw into might need to be custom-made.
Stefan N: Just drill gently and use a concrete drill but without hammer action.
saiter: "]Thank you! I think I understand what you mean. 2 layers of rectangular frame of 28x120). Let's say that the left vertical one closest to the panel is all the way up in the upper corner, so you mean that the left vertical one farthest from the panel is all the way down in the lower corner. At the same time, the horizontal ones fill the "gaps" in the corners after the vertical ones?[/QUOTE] Yes
Kinzeei: We are working on fixing up a small room on the upper floor. We have moved the window to gain a bit more reveal inside and laid a new solid spruce floor. Now we are working on the walls where the first thought was plasterboard directly on the panel, but I realize it isn't as firm as I had hoped, so I don't dare to plaster there. What do you think is hidden behind the panel on the exterior wall?
AntiusII: I can’t make sense of exactly what my outer wall consists of. The documentation (1947) from the municipality describes it as follows: [bild] Based on that and my own measurements, I come up with the following: [bild] From "45 lying regel" and outwards, I know it's correct since I can see and measure it. What I'm wondering about lies between "12,7 (½") Porös träfiberplatta" and "15 rörning
myrstack: [citat] the workflow is basically to prepare plaster strips, mix plaster putty, dispense this into the approximate amount needed, and then press the plaster strips in place. If you have slightly too much plaster putty behind, you can often achieve full adhesion and press out the excess if you're a bit careful. The plaster putty is so sticky that even the upper part will be able to be pressed into
Acora: [citat] Sorry, forgot to write. Already decided, will be interlocking single-cup tiles.
Mats-S: [citat] Thank you, thank you, yes, I got a little experience during my 20 years as a carpenter and joiner :)
Kardan79: A clarification. We don't care about how the panel is treated. We will paint the existing one white. /Daniel
Sam_u_El: Feedback again. Now it's been almost another 6 years, so a total of about 8 years. Still sits perfectly.
Karrock: Something like träullit has been common in noise barriers of similar construction. You can tuck in awning fabric or the like, so you can choose a cheerful color.
juanxxx: [citat] Small children will bike on them (and myself, of course). Then it's nice with a bit of comfort :-)
Musseh: [citat] Yes, probably.. found some pictures with the text "Baseboard of fiberglass-reinforced polymer composite board with a surface of crushed natural stone." Seems likely :) thanks
Knallskalle: Since I haven't received a response, I'll simplify things here. I'm planning to proceed as follows, let me know if you think anything is unnecessary or overkill. Brush clean, as dust-free as possible Keep it moist for a few days according to the instructions for korrohäft Cover the drain with plastic Mix and apply korrohäft to the walls (assuming it's not needed on the drain) Directly after