Building Materials and Construction Technology
Stensson11: [citat] It is mitered 90 degrees against a small piece that is also mitered. It looks strange anyway. A skurkloss would have done the trick there.
A bygg: Do you need to have a door?? Otherwise, it's simple to remove the frame, install "trim" which can be gypsum with paint. That should save you a few centimeters. Then just fill in on the left side. Doesn't affect any potential load-bearing at all…
tensiden: [citat] Feels like it will get torn up when we harrow and then we’ll have a mix. I'm thinking more like using it when we need crushed rock for "something else". Either improve a forest road or something similar. Then I'll scrape everything together somehow, load it up, and use it for "the other thing", then I'll buy a few loads of fine gravel and lay it out.
total: [citat] Did it happen? Do you have any pictures and more info on how you built it? Did it have any soundproofing effect? Regards, Total
Ironside: Hello, After renovating the stairs and laying a new floor, we installed a baseboard to cover about 10 mm of movement space. Unfortunately, we failed to consider and nailed it straight through both the list and the parquet. The floor should, of course, be able to expand and contract, which becomes problematic with this solution. The result is that the floor pushes the list against the stairs,
BirgitS: Do you want to upload the entire floor plan?
Kurtivan: [citat] There is sheet metal with a bit of texture, that might fit.
snoooze: It will be time to email customer service in the good old-fashioned way. That's also what the all-knowing chat bot advised :D
KJD: Running a fantastic basement project, beyond exhaustion - and now working on finishing walls. (Should have been before the floor: I know). Anyway, I'm using a fantastic scraping tool after having gone through steaming/wire brushing and diamond grinding to remove wallpaper. Now I'm wondering what is recommended for prep work before silicate painting? Interior concrete walls fully clear. Exterior
rickardsv: Hello, I have a house with a rather low eave, about 240cm, that lacks a patio roof. I've seen aluminum roofs with glass, but the dimensions don't quite fit. I've searched for custom-sized options, but I can't find anything reasonable. Does anyone know where to buy custom-sized roofs? It seems to me like a sensible solution that is strong and convenient, without needing large glulam beams and
Inger_1: [citat] Thanks! I will check that out!
wildeside: Cc60 is no problem on a wall, screw in every third or fourth valley.
Ulf1: [citat] Thanks- I will make the fittings myself so I can adjust them to the dimensions of the storage. It's easy to build your own. Best regards, Ulf
ninhuo: A little follow-up I took down the stairs when I discovered mold up by the ceiling on an old wooden beam. Started tearing down in the bathroom because we were going to renovate the bathroom but it ended up with having to tear down quite a lot when we discovered both mold and rot in the old construction. So all the walls are gone now and I will build up new ones and a new staircase is coming to us.
kniv: The rule has likely been used either as a base for a temporary workbench and thus has been slightly sawed, or someone has previously dismantled panel material by sawing. If one is to make any alterations to the standing studs (for flex pipes, VA etc), it should be in the middle of the stud since it is the fibers on the outside that bear the most, as I have been taught.
Hep: You have received both tips and questions in your other thread. You might want to address those things before moving on, since you're not finished there, as it seems based on your pictures here.
Ironside: [citat] I can't imagine it has any significance for the construction above; what might possibly be the issue is if the lintel over the door falls down, but that seems unlikely, as many others here have also said. After all, there's about 10 cm of reinforcing bar left on the right side of the lintel (viewed from the inside). On the entrance floor, there's a bathroom\toilet here, but there's no
Mindboggle: Could very well have been the wrong type of nail on the neighbor's roof. The slope of the neighbor's garage roof was constructed almost as your description, but without the raw boards. Tar paper, sloped battens, metal roof. Correction: The battens were nailed and the nails walked out from the battens through the metal roof, not the tar paper. Probably it got quite hot between the metal roof and
-MH-: Is a two-story house (from 1937) and this is on the ground floor. No window above the intended opening. The intermediate floor to the second floor is about 450mm c/c, if judging by the floor structure down to the basement.
Peter_Ker: We used renovation wallpaper from Rusta.
Surly: If you don't have a roof on it, it will definitely hold. Träguiden has free dimensioning programs, I think there is also an app but I have never tried it. Below is a link to the dimensioning of the pergola, but there are lots of other constructions to choose from. https://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/dimensionering/pergola/
AXS: [citat] Glue can be stronger than a screw. I would ask at your nearest hardware store and buy whatever is available. But something not too viscous and definitely in a cartridge applicator. Like this: https://www.byggmax.se/lim-byggfog-tec7-svart
z_bumbi: Daylight panels, i.e., LED panels with the same frequencies as daylight in the ceiling and/or triple glazing in the wall.
Mats-S: 10cm diameter, no problem with such a small round hole :coffee:
Centano: [citat] It depends a bit on the rest of the staircase's structure and how it's supported. If the steps are solely supported by the footings, the staircase must be secured before removing the footings. If the staircase is to be demolished, do so first and remove the footings when it's safe to move them. There might also be a larger footer cast at the bottom of the footing, making it a bit