Building Materials and Construction Technology
First Clas: [citat] Perhaps try with a piece of square tubing that slides on, on top of the post, with a welded-on cap and plates on either side of the beam as side support. Should be able to work. It will act like a U-profile that the beam fits into.
plåtrickard: Open the falser and flatten, double fold into new pieces..
cpalm: [citat] I have some nice examples here of what happens if you let a carpenter do masonry work (= repairing plastered walls with a mix of treetex, planks, and masonite) or let masons do carpentry work (= repairing timber walls with concrete). 🤔 OK, I guess what you're saying is that it's puttied/painted directly on the (damaged) plaster(?) Will the chimney be used (fireplace)? If you want a
myrstack: Difficult to see, but isn't it the case that the "syllen" is the horizontal beam and it's elevated for some reason? Uneven foundation wall? Placing a more normally placed beam there seems like a time-consuming effort, but if you can lift the wall studs slightly to get some sill paper underneath, you prevent potential capillary forces. If they can't be lifted a few mm, you can always support from
pennybridge: I had something similar. Removed the elements and bent the pipes after the renoveeungsgips was in place and painted.
Dr Benz: No one else? Opinions on fruit brakes and insulation directly against the ceiling? Opinions on insulating the floor about 5cm and then laying parquet on top? Opinions on running radiator pipes in a crawl space about 12m one way.
CissiSimon: [citat] Hey! Haven't fixed the stairs yet, but I plan to do it like this, after advice from a carpenter and the paint shop. 1. Wash the whole thing with hydrochloric acid. Rinse off. 2. Knock off all loose mortar. (all hollow pockets). Use a wire brush to remove loose paint. Rinse off. 3. Prime and repair with Finja A-mortar. Brush a bit in the mortar so the next layer adheres better. When it has
DanTö: Hello, I have a house with a timber frame, and now I'd like to "shorten the wall (open it up)" in the pictures, and I know that it's also braced sideways, which is what this is about. I also know there are threads here about this, but I haven't found any answers to this specific issue, just claims about lateral force and that the wall helps the gable not to "warp." In picture 1, a yellow-marked
GalliMattias: [citat] At least 400 mm, preferably 500 if possible.
BSOD: 3mm feels little. It's easy to remove a few more mm to get a little better coverage on the pipe. Considering it's so little, I would have taken a cheap chisel and knocked out a couple more mm. https://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-och-maskiner/handverktyg/stamjarn-och-trasnidarverktyg/stamjarn/stamjarn-125323/
Jonatan79: A non-issue, drill an 18mm hole, insert a 16mm conduit and pass the cable through.
Kalle Olsson2: Hello. I have bought a house with a crawl space foundation, and it's not possible to get down and see what it looks like. There is a vent on each gable. How should I think? How were crawl space foundations built in '62? The chimney is concrete.
Skogsmusen: [citat] This page I used when I was looking for information for a staircase build. https://www.zhitov.ru/sv/lestnica/ Or: https://www.zhitov.ru/sv/lestnica_k/
neo11: You keep going on about your primning all the time, yeah prime all you want. I haven't seen any product sheet for your primer, which primer do you use? But that your only question is about primning, I can't understand. Goodnight
jonaserik: I can't comment on what white waxing does in slippery conditions. Whether it will hold and when waxing the wood raises and needs to be sanded and waxed again, from what I know about it. So, a painter would have to answer that, maybe someone on the forum knows.
neo11: https://www.amazon.se/MP90-skyddsmedel-milj%C3%B6v%C3%A4nligt-begr%C3%A4nsar-absorptionen/dp/B08499CY24/ref=asc_df_B08499CY24/?tag=shpngadsglede-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=476512334607&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10500852216014756532&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9062467&hvtargid=pla-875599667030&psc=1 This one is very good. However, it depends a bit on how the water comes
Jenseo: [citat] There seem to be some overlaps on the film where there are larger open sections, so maybe you can "repair" them with the tape then. Sounds good!
Mats-S: [citat] Regular drywall screws for 3 layers of drywall should be enough to reach the wooden wall. Use the screwdriver you have, regardless, you'll get the technique after a few screws :)
jonaserik: Probably OK, but it's like Heraclitus, it's hard to attach anything to those walls that the linked is set on.
JF.: [citat] [citat] I want to cut half of the truss to free up more space in the loft. It's a truss that I want to modify. As it is today, part of the old roof still remains in the loft. The construction drawings are not relevant anymore as they were done with the idea that I would do a roof lift that never materialized. There was nothing wrong with the proposal, but it became far too costly.
jonaserik: No anchoring of the irons is needed as long as they are graded out, try pulling out an iron straight up that is in the rock with grading. You can't do it. When the concrete arrives, the irons are fixed so that all stress is upwards. Some transverse iron is not wrong, as it keeps mutual distance. With that height, the irons will sit firmly in the concrete and not slide out.
NiSim: [citat] I am quite dissatisfied with this company overall since the rest of the renovation is not yet finished, so I am not going to accept the invoice before it's done. But I have pointed out that I am not happy with the ventilation solution and only got the response that it will then be more delayed. So I'm considering disputing part of the invoice on the grounds that I need to hire another
