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jamaica: [citat] we'll go with that then, thanks
14 replies · 2,6k views
iamrane
iamrane: I think it was picture 1
26 replies · 37,8k views
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D
Danne213: Glue works, but I probably would have used a sheet metal bracket instead. Another option is double-sided tape.
1 reply · 2,1k views
Hep
Hep: If you have any pictures of how it looked before you tore it down, or from when you bought it, it might be possible to see if it is original or later.
4 replies · 6,8k views
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F
fribygg: [citat] Then maybe 10mm rebar might do
3 replies · 1,5k views
pacman42
pacman42: Drill into the frame and insert brackets with screws. Place wire between the brackets.
1 reply · 1,6k views
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Mats-S
Mats-S: [citat] No, there is an alternative :) Make double layers of OSB/chipboard. Glue them together with construction adhesive so that you get maximum overlap of the boards between the layers. Then you have, in the end, one board onto which you can glue all the mirrors, if that's what you want? Then you glue the mirrors on with construction adhesive and again make sure they overlap the joints on the
1 reply · 1,9k views
FredrikR
FredrikR: [citat] Absolutely.
3 replies · 1,2k views
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JohanLun: [citat] I wouldn't take the risk. There's a high chance of getting mold. Place a tarp loosely over it so it dries instead.
1 reply · 949 views
Niklas_Syl
Niklas_Syl: [citat] Thanks! The support wall will remain. I will build dressers outside that wall and keep the crawl space as it is.
2 replies · 1,3k views
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ByggareBobbyMcgee: Thanks a lot for your response! I suspect that most of the error for me lies in the low-price fix I bought. I discovered that the best before date had passed. Since fix is likely to have a rather long one, I guess the bags have been collecting dust for a while… I've used the primer on the same surface once before, so it's good. About three out of forty tiles are stuck to the floor, the rest are
3 replies · 3,8k views
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Skogsmusen: I did it like this. [bild] What I used was the overhand router, glue in the joints, and then they are clamped together on the underside with these. [bild]
2 replies · 2,5k views
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K
Kowarts: Mix boiled linseed oil and balsam turpentine in roughly equal parts and paint the chimney stack with it after you've filled in the joints.
6 replies · 1,9k views
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Störstmjölken
Störstmjölken: [citat] Tec7, for example, can, according to the manufacturer, be frozen and thawed several times without losing its properties, so it absolutely does. Whether it extends the expiration date, I'll leave unsaid.
2 replies · 1,3k views
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Tompafix: [citat] There are pipe baseboards, but most are plastic. If you still have the old ones, you could cut 95 mm to the right dimension to match your 87 mm. What dimension are the pipes?
1 reply · 1,5k views
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Mjärn: I am going to build similar shelves as these. They look to be made of slightly thicker material. Where do you buy such things? And what material is it?
0 replies · 986 views
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BillyT: [citat]
43 replies · 72,6k views
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jamaica: Another question I just thought of. What type of screw & what density should I have on them?
8 replies · 1,9k views
surris
surris: [citat] Sounds reasonable. Some sealing compound for external use.
5 replies · 1,5k views
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hfkdkfvmsd: Is it good if there is an angle on the wind deflector to direct the air towards the air gap for better ventilation... or can it stand directly on the floor and vertically upwards (red) and then connect to the air gap (green)? insulation (yellow). [bild]
9 replies · 4,4k views
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C
Christoffer Stenmark: I have a problem that I'm not quite sure how/if it's possible to solve as I'm supposed to install ceiling moldings on a sloped ceiling and the ceiling at the transition isn't level. I understand that I need to do something special at the angle between the transition, but how?
0 replies · 1,9k views
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JH86
JH86: [citat] Yes, it is an allmogelist. At least of the same type. But the curved part is much higher than a conventional allmogelist.
4 replies · 1,3k views
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A
August.E: [citat] I would go with 10mm OSB/chipboard + 13mm plasterboard. Considerably cheaper than 15mm OSB plus renovation plasterboard, which is both expensive and fragile.
1 reply · 2,0k views
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Testarn: Hmmm... I read through my previous post and realize that I struggle with short, concise answers, like "buy ready-made vangstycken and screw them on"... even if that might be good enough. 🙂 Glad you found something that works and you're satisfied with. (Then the language police in me can't resist... The side piece on a staircase is called a vang, not vagn. 😁) Hope you find a varnish that
3 replies · 1,9k views
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Snoflinga: [citat] There is water on the old roof under the new metal roof, it rains through the metal roof.
15 replies · 5,2k views
mexitegel
mexitegel: There you go, it's been done properly so it's just natural color variations that have arisen during the polishing.
4 replies · 1,2k views
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witten: [citat] There are no moisture risks with placing it there, and it is the only reasonable thing to do in your case if you don't want to tear down more.
4 replies · 901 views
Nyfniken
Nyfniken: [citat] It looks like maybe a socket that is too shallow was used?
106 replies · 30,3k views
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T
TH885: [bild]
14 replies · 4,3k views
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