Building Materials and Construction Technology
MathiasS: [citat] No advantages besides being able to hang things up. Worth every penny.
Harald Blåtumme: https://www.gransforsbruk.com/produkt/gransfors-snickaryxa/
Fransroland: I am installing a vapor barrier in the attic and am considering how to handle a specific area. I have emptied the attic of sawdust and am placing the membrane between the rafters but not wrapping it around and over in this case. I have installed a masonite board with an air gap against the outer roof. The membrane has an sd-value of 18. At the edge of the ceiling, there is a beam on which the
AG A: The wall at the blue arrow is not load-bearing. However, walls at green and red are load-bearing, with the greatest certainty. The same applies to the wall between the kitchen and living room/hallway.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, the starting point is there, but the important thing is the overall picture. Sometimes you have to adjust the measurements a bit for the whole to look good.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] But as far as I'm concerned, we can end the discussion since you have explained it😉
Mido11: [citat] That’s a real rip-off... I believe your roofing contractor is getting a 50-70% payback on it, or another larger job they got scaffolding set up for has been billed to you, sadly.
Anonymiserad 156139: Södra trä had quite good information here https://www.sodra.com/_download/sp/cedertra.pdf
imported_Benno: [citat] Gypsum is preferable if there are going to be tiles on the floor as it doesn't move like wood.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, since you have OSB, it will be stable. Usually, you do the outside first, and if you don't have diagonal braces when you're working on the roof, the house can easily settle.
KJD: [citat] Maybe, but mine will look nicer and avoid accidentally tearing up the chip more. In this case, we need to disassemble several times due to how/when we get different parts. All solutions suit different people differently. Here, this fits well. Notice that I asked what such a gadget was called. All good. Thanks for the feedback.
jonaserik: It is the shell that is load-bearing, not the plaster and insulation; the latter is merely cosmetic to make it a bit warmer and provide a surface to look at.
surris: [citat] It is just on the edge that folded tiles work with that roof slope. So I wouldn't go for it.
Eluner: Hi, I need help finding a bröstlist that sits on a bröstpanel. Unfortunately, the panel was torn out by previous owners and now we need to fill the hole, we have arranged for the panel but the list is missing. It would be nice to find a similar one instead of replacing the entire bröstlist.
mgranbom: Do you need drywall on the walls? I would rather have painted OSB than drywall if it's just going to be one layer. /M
neo11: Don't think it's doable. And with such incomplete info from TS, I probably won't bother to add more.
neo11: Thin plaster thickness about 8mm finished, plastic in. Lifespan 20 years+ Thick plaster thickness about 20mm finished, diffusion-open. Lifespan 60-100 years+
Installation: [citat] Yes, it is stated in BBR. Chapter 8.1.1 if I recall correctly
Installation: [citat] Use rockphon or ecophon ceilings. They reduce reflections and reverberation time. The impact and ball bounce differ quite a bit. The higher frequency from the impact goes towards the screen and it should handle those reflections. The corners around the screen can certainly give a certain clap echo. You should address the ball bounce at the source. That is, dampen the area around the
plåtrickard: Start with references and pictures of old jobs.... In terms of base material, the smoother the better.. The best base material I've used is tongue and groove roof plywood
MathiasS: Four of these and the deal is sealed, it doesn't matter if you have a rule or not: https://www.hornbach.se/p/traskruv-grabber-6-0x40mm-c1-kullrig-10-styck/10114349/?wt_mc=se.paid.sea.google.alwayson_assortment.eis.smartbidding.19573218363.146436118978.&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgK2qBhCHARIsAGACuzkmS-QQIGHBEp_rXuIR6utw7dnhEPI2C7SWsopA7inxCzs1WB-l0isaAlDmEALw_wcB Or you can step it up a notch:
Viktor.J: [citat] Knock off all loose plaster. Apply new plaster and follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
ccx: Just occurred to me. If I make a multi-cut right at the floor sill on each side, I get 10mm of movement allowance and don't have to fuss with the wall itself. Pure win 😀
Dynamobonka: [citat] Thanks a lot for the feedback! And sounds smart. Didn't know ready-mixed was available. Had some builders here today for another matter but heard what they thought. They said that it absolutely works with gypsum plaster, but even an experienced painter would need to spend quite a bit of time to get it right. An alternative that has come up is primer + paint with some texture. We don't
jonaserik: In a crosswise manner, the angle becomes larger to counteract the wind/wave sway that occurs on a floating structure by the shore. Otherwise, there will be no difference in the rocking when you step on it. Preferably more bottom pipe at the ridge if possible.
gryden: [citat] Yes, it is a concrete slab, but the basement does not extend underneath. I haven't considered that it could be a potential problem. There are many other houses of the same type in the area that have already enclosed the porch in the way I'm considering. I don't think any of them have done anything with the foundation. But it's worth a little research.
StarkK: [citat] Thanks, I'll look into that. Just like for you, when we were in the house this weekend, had a fire going, warmed up to room temperature, etc. - it became noticeably better. Not odorless but better and not comparable to how it was before the major repair.