Building Materials and Construction Technology
Emelie Larsson: Okay, thank you so much for the response and tips!
BirgitS: [citat] Thanks! So you mean that the wall between the dining area and what is called the hall outside the bedrooms as well as between the two smaller bedrooms is load-bearing. I thought you meant the wall between the dining area and the hallway by the front door, and I thought that was strange.
Galten: How did it go? How you should do it depends a bit on the look you want. Do you want a completely even surface or for the stones to be visible?
Andréspe: Is one layer of Multi Force or Minerit 12mm enough as a ceiling in a carport with an apartment above? In terms of fire protection, that is.
z_bumbi: I would have a greater distance between the firewood and the fireplace.
Mats-S: [citat] I would go with that solution, OSB + drywall works perfectly to replace the previous tar paper :)
z_bumbi: Plaster anchor and any hardware store. May have additional names for the specific type of anchor but it seems to vary depending on the manufacturer.
magnil: Raising the entire roof is an option, but it should be considerably more expensive? (It's for just over half the length of the garage I plan to raise). Unfortunately, I no longer have an experienced old designer to contact. Maybe it's better to completely replace the roof trusses. Does an A-truss work with a hip roof? Didn't manage to find that with googling.
Afterquake: Regarding the candy cane marking/hatching, I guess it indicates a different type of wall. Most of the walls might be lightweight concrete, for example, while the rest are studded gypsum walls that are hatched? Normally, I would interpret such drawings as walls to be rebuilt when I see a project drawing, but this I assume is a drawing of how it currently looks.
ToreJ01: [citat] This is probably how it should be. Max between the purlins is 1000mm
Sommarstuga 2017: [citat] okay awesome, it's so nice when you can see the fire
hempularen: Then having the panel directly against the roof trusses without battens is mostly a problem of whether the panel is "self-supporting" over the larger distance between attachment points (roof trusses are often at cc 120) and can carry the load from the insulation. If it's a thick panel, it might work.
Simsgrodan: [citat] Yes, or as I wrote, let the pros handle it. You don't have to do everything yourself, asking what it would cost could be a good start.
Klabbarparn: [citat] Yes... And they seem to be using some sort of armored transport for these gold screws. 250 (!) bucks in shipping!
Tompafix: [citat] So you want the stairs to have an angle and not go directly from the starting point to the decking? We need some measurements to be able to give suggestions. What is the height difference between different parts of the terrain along the proposed route? How long would the stairs be in total if built like the picture?
BirgitS: It looks like it is an exterior wall designed to support the roof weight, i.e., load-bearing. When making modifications to load-bearing constructions, you should have an approved building permit (or planning permission) before you start, and this usually requires calculations of how the loads will be supported going forward. These calculations should be carried out by a structural engineer to
Maalkl: [citat] What is the difference? It might be similar enough that you don't notice it when it's in place.
Keiller: [citat] What do you have on the other side of the wall you plan to hang the TV on? Do you have space there to utilize? I have just ordered a Frame myself and I'm waiting to receive it. Fortunately, I have a closet behind the wall where the TV will be mounted, so I plan to set up a shelf in there for the one connect box, router, Telia box, and all other equipment needed to watch TV and movies. A
Magnusrex123: I should have talked to the board. Understand if it becomes expensive to send the craftsmen back, but if you do it wrong it might become even more expensive. I've never done anything like that but I would never have dared either :)
adis431: Hello, the constructor has dimensioned 1 pc 115x450 OR 2 pcs 115x360 glulam beams as a support beam when we open up a load-bearing wall between the existing apartment and the attic. To avoid the opening feeling uncomfortably low, we are thinking of using 2 pcs 115x360. These thus need to be screwed and glued together to achieve full capacity. What distance is necessary between the screws and what
Marqvist: moving the thread here.. https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/sprickor-i-kaellartak-hur-skulle-ni-resonera.502589/
Linkan90: [citat] Now that you've mentioned it, yes, it looks like träullit. Thanks Larsa 🙂
wildeside: Finding out what the pipe is for and if there is backflow or a blockage in the pipe is a good start.
Olf Oggler: How did it go with this? What kind of beams/reinforcements were used above the doors?
snuttjulle: Looks more like a riveted extension cord than an outlet. I haven't seen an outlet that's not meant to be opened and have cables connected to it. If it's as I suspect on an extension cord, it probably won't help to successfully open it since there are probably riveted connections inside there as well.
Perhof: Hi! Not sure if this thread should be under insulation or here; the moderator can move it if it's deemed misplaced. I have access to a part (two sections) of a hall constructed of arched trusses (length 15 m, mid-height about 5-7 m, and 3 m between each truss) with corrugated sheet metal. These two sections have their own door on the short side and are uninsulated. The other part of the hall has
Hamstraren: [bild] How do I solve this most easily? I have wall panels left so there will be a lot of fiddling. Does anyone have a good idea for a simple solution? The goal is to have a wardrobe in this space. Thanks.
Hamstraren: I filled with sand and laid the floor. It wasn't 100% perfect, but it was much better than before. Thanks for the tips.