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3 replies
1k views
3 replies
Some questions about ongoing staircase renovation
I have 13 liters of acetone to remove glued fabric from the stair treads of the pine staircase and with various sanders managed to sand down and remove all glue residues. The plan is to whitewash the treads and paint the stringers white.
1. How fine should the treads be sanded? P240?
2. The sanded parts are of course noticeably soft as pine is. The stringers are clear-coated so the pine there is significantly harder. How will the treads be with the whitewash, as soft as now? Is there anything that can be done to achieve the harder lacquered surface that the stringers have?
3. White paint adheres to metal as well... do the stringers also have to be sanded down or can you paint over the lacquered pine? (I understand that over time there is more risk of the paint peeling)
1. How fine should the treads be sanded? P240?
2. The sanded parts are of course noticeably soft as pine is. The stringers are clear-coated so the pine there is significantly harder. How will the treads be with the whitewash, as soft as now? Is there anything that can be done to achieve the harder lacquered surface that the stringers have?
3. White paint adheres to metal as well... do the stringers also have to be sanded down or can you paint over the lacquered pine? (I understand that over time there is more risk of the paint peeling)
240 is enough, then about painting them, regular paint will wear out quite quickly and look bad. If it’s to be painted, it should be a 2-component type to last. But a WARNING finger must be raised, the stairs become like an ice road from it, easy to slip, slide down on your tailbone or break a leg or arm. Preferably with an anti-slip protection on the front edge of the step.
The steps are intended to be white-stained, but do you mean it will still be slippery?J jonaserik said:240 is sufficient, then regarding painting them, regular paint will wear out quite quickly and become ugly. If they are to be painted, it should be a 2-component type to last. But I must raise a WARNING finger, the stairs will be like an ice rink because of it, easy to slip, slide and fall on the tailbone or break a leg or arm. Preferably with an anti-slip protection on the front edge of the step.
I can't comment on what white waxing does in slippery conditions. Whether it will hold and when waxing the wood raises and needs to be sanded and waxed again, from what I know about it. So, a painter would have to answer that, maybe someone on the forum knows.
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