Building Materials and Construction Technology
Anonymiserad 156538: The question is what the benefit is? If you're putting a hook on the wall, the hole doesn't need to be perfectly straight; it works anyway. If you're making a long hole that needs to come out at a specific spot, it won't be accurate enough to be of any help. Often, when you accidentally drill crooked, it's because the space is tight, and then this gadget likely won't work either.
anis16: I used a track and... ta-da... plunge saw when I shortened our pax wardrobes. If I remember correctly, it was the front part of the base that was a bit more tricky to get exactly right.
hempularen: I encountered that issue and was about to go insane. I glued the strip to the seam instead of putty underneath to minimize the thickness. It worked, except in two places. Discovered after puttying and priming. Sanded off putty and strip from the bad spots. Initially, I glued the strip, let the glue dry for several days, puttied, etc. When I redid it, I only let the glue dry for about 20 minutes
hansulainen: Yes, it was plaster. Had submitted it for testing because I had never seen pink plaster. Anyway, if anyone encounters it - no asbestos (😃 - know that some people are worried)
f-ander: [citat] Thank you very much! I suspected this... Well, that could have been a solution, but we are keen on having nice doors or drawer fronts in the front. But then it will be quite a bit of DIY to try to achieve a decent result instead of being able to use ready-made frames and doors.
S.Strularsson: I have Kirkedal. Excellent. PM for pictures.
Tompafix: [citat] There are extensions for certain brackets, and some brackets come in different lengths from the wall. However, I think I've only seen a 5-6cm difference. But a thorough Google search might find more. Otherwise, the alternatives are to use a spacer or ask a blacksmith to modify a bracket.
Evalarsson36: [citat] I am very grateful that someone is mature and reads thoroughly and gives a good answer indeed.
Karoleva: Hello I am planning to build a pantry in the corner of our workshop. That part of the house is insulated but the electricity isn't on there, so it gets cold in the winter, almost frozen. My idea is to build a pantry in the corner as shown in the picture at an angle to create a space that is dark and where the temperature doesn't fluctuate too much, especially during autumn and spring. In the
wildeside: How to easily lay underfloor heating pipes in the spacing directly on the floor joists. The plan is to lay pine flooring on the spacing. At the outer edges, there are no problems with the turns, but further in where the interior walls will be, the underfloor heating pipes need to be turned so that each room gets its own loop. One idea is to fasten a 45X70 or 45X95 to the joist and splice the
ccx: Well, now it's clear. The door stands on the additional insulation's sill. Then cast against the existing concrete. We'll see how it holds up when it gets cold. Wood stud doesn't insulate very well, so the risk is that the ledge becomes cold. Couldn't find a better solution to the problem.
Rickard.: The wind barrier is probably as close to completely diffusion-open as you can make a membrane that still should prevent air movement; it probably does very little in that regard. If I'm not mistaken, a vapor barrier should have about 100 times more vapor resistance.
Naesstrom: I've started renovating 2 small rooms (hall and WC) in our old cottage, and it's just about 8m2 right now. When I removed the floor in the hall, it turned out there was no insulation at all, and directly under the wooden floor, it was open... No wonder it's been cold there in the winter :D The plan now is to dig out and re-insulate between the floor joists, but how do I do it the smartest way? My
Timelloffer: Hi Richard! I am facing the same question you had, even the same sink, Svedbergs Nerby. I want to fit a 160cm sink into a 156cm space. How did it go for you? Did any cutting take place?
Trafikverket1: [citat] I removed (almost...) all the nails and in places where there was 15-20 mm too much, I cut off the majority with a circular saw. Held it sideways, a bit tricky because the beam was twisted. Then a plane to get it exactly level. You don't have to use a circular saw, but you mentioned it was up to 30 mm that needed to be removed in some parts, which means a lot of material has to be planed.
Tebax: No, just primed with Kiilto's start primer. The plates are screwed in a grid pattern. The floor feels completely solid otherwise except for these 2 seams in the middle. It could be that the seam is right between the screw row and therefore left "in the air"? I don't think the floor layer should spackle on the gypsum board, it's he who asked me to glue the boards like this, then he would spackle
cpalm: Test it! It can't get worse than going wrong. 🙂 But in principle, it should go well, I think. It's like demolition and smoothing; you have to time the exact right consistency. But easier said than done if you ask me. It's probably best to include it from the start. The surface will be nicer too.
BirgitS: [citat] In 1978 it was well known that asbestos was dangerous, and it had already been phased out in most products.
yonna: I had the top of the chimney repointed, but that was many years ago. The bricklayer, as far as I remember, didn't charge much for the actual work, so the number of working hours was acceptable. The major cost was the scaffolding to the roof, both the rental and the setup and takedown.
BirgitS: Yes Then I don't know how it might affect the fire protection between the apartments. The gypsum is probably there to ensure that the fire protection requirements are met.
Kretikos: I made a similar wall from a sheet of k-plyfa with glued beadboard. It would work just as well to glue drywall on both sides if you want to increase the thickness a bit. Glued to the floor (possibly an angle iron hidden by the fridge, I don't remember) and then sorted firmly in the fridge's overhead cabinet.