Building Materials and Construction Technology
Tage97: [citat] Hi! What do you think about putting drywall over the masonite? Would that work better? Or remove the masonite and then drywall?
AJ82: Thanks for the answers! It still feels reassuring. I will of course bring in a professional to investigate as well, so we'll see. It's not a job I'm comfortable doing myself.
Gabbe1: I would not hesitate to use elslang in such cases.
Workingclasshero: Hello Avoid sawing, it might go haywire, chop, crack, etc. As previously suggested, cut with a sharp knife against a steady surface. /W
Slipdamm: I'm curious about this too. Did you find any good method?
jonaserik: [citat] Have no problem with it not being reliable, it's probably your data saying something.
BirgitS: The stair noses seem to be nailed so start there. When they are removed, you can see the edge of the risers.
JonazThern: [citat] Yes, the idea in that case is to install steel studs to allow for circulation.
Albans doktor: Ask the board if they have k-drawings of the house to start with. If the association doesn't have them, the municipality usually has such stored and you can request it from them if so.
Gazzi83: Hi. Is the smell kind of plasticky and sweet?
bergquist: [citat] Thanks for all the help "Testarn" but as you saw in another thread, the municipality has stopped our greenhouse because they imposed protection on the pond that we had the conservation agency construct on the village's farmland, the pond is meant to promote birdlife.
wildeside: I have windows (wood inside/aluminum outside) from villafonster.se in all the houses, the oldest windows are 10-12 years old now and still look like new. Didn't hesitate for a second last year when it was time to buy windows for the new build.
Skalman9: Hi, We have a little attic smell sometimes creeping in between the baseboards (in the wall connected to the cold attic space). I've tried taping between the floor and the wall, and it works! The smell disappears. Is it okay to use tape without consequences, or do you think it’s better with something like insulation cord that might breathe a little more? It concerns the upper floor, 1.5-story
AJ82: [citat] Something like this should be it: https://www.bauhaus.se/bultsats-admiral-till-toalett-tvattstall?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb6-1Ss0pGvyVoPPUj5wr2dT9B-Tk-S6LsuUQ7n8vvDivZUIan_c6rX0aApzOEALw_wcB#go-to-description
Skalman9: Then I have to call a stair company or something. I would need to know that it's not load-bearing before I tear it down. The boards on the back are about 1cm thick. Let's see if someone on this forum knows about this and has done something similar, and takes the time to reply :)
hapazard: [citat] The thing with bamboo is that it's always block-glued or some kind of veneer since bamboo stalks are hollow. So the weakness is always how well the glue holds over time, indoors dry and room temperature - no problem, outdoors in moisture and sun, summer and winter - ???
Anonymiserad 405730: If scraping and brushing don't work, then sanding is required, unless you want to completely chip off the plaster..:
Albans doktor: I would guess that it refers to a wall rail =) For the thread starter, your 5x60 screws should work fine for this project if you use 4 per cabinet, but it depends a bit on how far the screw goes into the wall. Generally, when I put up cabinets and shelves, a minimum of 6mm screws are usually used, because it's better to have a little extra margin for what a screw can handle. But as I said, I
Naesstrom: Here's a better picture I took today... thinking of placing a 45x95 horizontally around the nearest hole and letting it protrude 30mm so I can later align the rest of the wall straight to that level. The floor will of course be removed and re-insulated, and a vinyl flooring will be laid throughout since it will become a "boiler room" and utility toilet. The question is how to construct the
JanneJanne123: Yes, I think I'll try that a bit more controlled next time I tile, I hate when everything is straight and nice except for the last silicone joint.
Anonymiserad 405730: I am not a designer..but it helps you if someone who is can help you..
Villa Tunnbrödet: Adding an image here, in case someone else comes to the forum looking for an answer to the question. [bild]
Cattis Steffensen: Thank you for the very detailed answer! I'll put obs on the walls and plaster in the oven room. Now I know exactly how it should be done;)
KJD: [citat] Ok, I see. I'll do it on the doM (two) walls that already have visible cracks. Thanks (y)
Calle666: Thank you!! 😀 excellent advice
KJD: attaching before/after pictures instead .. ;) before (a 600x2000 element had cracked and has been removed): [bild] after: [bild] (the angle iron solution comes from the Gds article - there is a 20mm air gap behind so wanted to make sure it stands stable - no fastening to the left either where the sewer pipe goes). Now I'm going to finish building the wall upwards and then build a layer on the