Building Materials and Construction Technology
Cold Gin: Hello. I am going to open up a wall. It is about 2 linear meters that need to be opened up. A little more or less depending on the position of the studs. In my house from '68, there is about 45/60cm center-to-center between studs. I suspect this is a load-bearing wall. There are two parallel load-bearing walls running through most of the house, including where I want to open up. The main body of
AG A: Unfortunately, no calculation programs help in this situation. You need to know what loads the beam will take. This requires a real load calculation, which is very complicated. Unfortunately, you need to get help from an engineer. I am a trained engineer myself, and I cannot possibly say which beam is needed without seeing all the construction drawings. Or possibly come and look.
Purre: [citat] You have to buy loose screws then. Otherwise, the toggle model should handle even higher loads. https://www.amazon.se/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGGLE-zinkpl%C3%A4terad-tillverkad-UNC-f%C3%A4ststorlek/dp/B0051IBBUE
Faceb00k: [citat] Thank you very much for the help! The molly did the job.
Manganbangan: [citat] When my mother-in-law entered the room, she asked if it was underfloor heating. No, there are plugs under the carpet😂
putte22: No, unfortunately not any idea. But the ones I bought at 2 meters have cost between 300-500kr. But they are really worth it. You can check at K-ruta if they have them in store, otherwise order from Beijer bygg etc.
BirgitS: Concrete walls in apartments usually don't look like a concrete floor or a concrete countertop; instead, there are cracks and holes. Is that the kind of surface you want? Mikroliten has probably been installed precisely to hide cracks and holes.
MathiasS: [citat] I guess people renovate basements because they want to use the space. There are many residential purposes that a basement is excellent for. An alternative might be to add a floor, which has many advantages, but also a completely different cost.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] The shadow molding hides more than the cove molding.. Usually, I don't miter cut inner corners with shadow molding; instead, you set the first wall with a whole piece, then butt up against it with the next, usually at an angle of about 26 degrees if I remember correctly.
linvige: [citat] Exactly. They manufacture stairs on order. An installer comes out to take all measurements, drafts proposals, and provides a quote.
jonaserik: Those boards were put up to prevent echo in the room. Just attach them sparsely with longer screws that grip into the concrete.
Lexington: The rules for spark protection on a stove (closed fireplace) state 30 cm in front and 10 cm on each side. The rules that jonaserik writes are for an open fireplace. Additionally, if you have an elevated open fireplace (over 40 cm), you should add half of the excess measurement. For example, if you have an open fireplace where the opening is 50 cm above the ground, you add 50-40=10, 10/2=5 cm
z_bumbi: Most adhesives come loose with heat, so a heated putty knife should work even on construction adhesive if you want to remove them in the future. Test on some scrap wood. Otherwise, just screw from the inside of the closet with wood screws with large heads and/or washers. You can apply a few dabs of adhesive if you don't trust the screws.
Johan Gunverth: Sure, but the idea is still to unscrew the bolt. It's a bit difficult, though, to know in advance if the expanding part remains axially fixed, i.e., that it doesn't start spinning around. It's important to choose a product that prevents that. (Consider what happens when a Molly-expander's thread detaches from the shaft.) Something that is designed for disassembly. A threaded sleeve, which we've
Benjamin Pålsson: Found this thread as I'm facing a similar problem. How did you solve it?
Hank_Ö: [citat] No, I do not know for sure. I moved in 5 years ago. Before that, the same family had lived here for a very long time, but it's unclear if it was that family who built this extension in 1967. I have not opened the floor to check, I drilled through it once 5 years ago but can't remember what I learned then. It is a light concrete beam slab, I can see that, and on top, there is a plank floor
fribygg: [citat] Glue or latex paint is common, right?
Freniño: [citat] Faced a similar dilemma with a meeting between a glulam post and gypsum. Never found a really good answer when searching, except for the only tip to prime the wood before plastering so it doesn't draw out the moisture from the plaster too quickly. Primed the post and plastered in a paper strip between the post and gypsum. So far it hasn't cracked, but it's only been a year. Have been
Dr Benz: Ok. Next question then. Which insulation material is most suitable to use. I was thinking of using fiberglass like in the rest of the house, but since the height will be limited to about 15 cm, maybe there is a material that provides better value at the same thickness?
manner: [citat] Thank you and welcome to the byggahus forum! Here at byggahus, there are plenty of projects members have done where they have saved houses that were more or less derelict and made them beautiful! In the future, we must be more careful with what has already been built and just upgrade and repair so it lasts for many more years. We cannot demolish fully functional houses just because they
Husköpare: [citat] Hello, Did you find any good company? I'm also looking for someone in the Stockholm area who can build/renovate/help us with a staircase.
neo11: Steel brush the bricks and joints; if the plaster is loose/soft/very hollow. Knock it off with a hammer. Pre-wet quite a lot and apply a loose base coat on all clean bricks with 3 mm c mortar. A few hours later or the next day, fill in with the same mortar, you can apply it with a felt float. And maybe stay 5 mm inside the existing plaster surface. The day after again, pre-wet and plaster with 1
NoiseMaker: [citat] I read the instructions on the can, but I think I've seen somewhere that if you're gluing textiles, it's enough to apply it to one surface. Good tip about the foam roller. I'll see if I can get hold of one. It might be worth using a cheaper carpet adhesive on the tread surface and just have contact adhesive on the stair nose...
pennybridge: I have personally taped with such age-resistant tape in these cases. A little hole here and there probably doesn't make a difference?
Lars Ryden1: But no moisture barrier if the house is unheated during winter, as I understand it??
Argastesnickaren: [citat] Nope, higher humidity both indoors and outdoors in the summer.
Matti_75: Drill and screw from underneath