Building Materials and Construction Technology
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] 70mm sounds thin, concrete slabs/floors are usually 120-200mm thick in single-family homes… I don't think 70mm will hold, depending a bit on the load…
Norktork: Thanks for the reply! The shelf managed without gluing as it's wedged in (it's meant to sit between the bunk bed and the wall). For the board, we need to secure it so it doesn't slip, small children will be using it and they're stronger than you think :)
Knox11: Hi, I'm decorating an upper floor in an SMV Kalmar and planning to have the pipes for the radiators coming out from the wall, but I'm wondering if it's enough to have a 45x45 beam or if I should use a 45x70?
BirgitS: [citat] There is no waterproofing layer in the ceiling, so it doesn't need to be sealed. However, it is good if the material can withstand a bit of humid air, so if you're worried about the molding, paint it with wet room paint. [citat] With such a construction, regardless of how it's technically solved, it will mainly be decorative light, I think. It probably won't work very well as cleaning
BirgitS: The later in the 70s the carpet is from, the lower the risk for asbestos.
roli: I did something similar about 25 years ago when I had to cast two small bases for my boiler because the mason had made the flue pipe hole at the wrong height. I made two wooden molds that I screwed together (easier to take apart during formwork removal) and placed them on the concrete floor. I marked on the floor where the casting was to go and made the concrete surface rough for better adhesion
Henrik Eriksson: [citat] Bought all the wood material from Calexico Wood.
Petter Forsen: [citat] Maybe put polystyrene with open texture like podrän and then plaster on the inside.
Rättochfel: Super [citat] , thank you, then it was excellently explained, I even understand it😀 That was a new angle, interesting!
Lengan: [citat] The problem might already be solved but this is how it looks in our place, one room without molding covering the gap, another with a wedge inserted to create a nice finish:
jonaserik: [citat] No, but it's not a bad idea to seal the chimney top, so it doesn't rain in, and otherwise it's an open residence for new tenants, crows/jackdaws. They are quick to move in.
neo11: [citat] I always use Weber, but Finja is okay. You must always water regardless of what you use. If it's brick, you need to water a lot; otherwise, it will set too quickly. I'd say the hydraulic is a bit more convenient, but air lime is a bit cheaper, although it cracks more easily if you plaster thickly and don't water properly. You have more time with air lime. Is C mortar not an option? Do you
Liljeros: I would definitely consider working with sheet material instead of panels as a surface layer. They are both lighter and allow for thinner construction. Are there any environmental requirements involved, i.e., that it should be built sustainably? Otherwise, I would use PIR insulation. The wall loads on a trailer become quite low as the house will be fairly long and narrow, so the roof area to be
Boende45: [citat] Yes, it's true that the double-walled chimney starts a few centimeters up in the ceiling. However, there is a stone wool board about 100 mm high around that part of the chimney, which I assume is the solution.
fribygg: [citat] 15 min/ a quarter of an hour, get out immediately so you don't have the roof on you and make sure to craft new roof trusses as soon as possible.
TryBran: Absolutely. It has been the best, and also the most convenient. Unfortunately, this time it was different, so I had to do the best I could.
EPG: Yes, having to occasionally shovel snow off the roof every few years is something I account for, which means that the roof must be designed to handle the weight of the snow as well as to support someone walking on it to remove the snow. With a slope of 14 degrees, that means there will be a height difference of 1.5 meters if I build 6 meters deep. Most likely, I will build it shorter, but it
Perrekk: Thanks for the feedback and different input. At the risk of having to "try again and get it right," I might still lean towards using ankarmassa. I thought I could make do with what I had at home but perhaps it's best to purchase it after all.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] No, it won't be useful since it's concrete.. If it's, for example, plasterboard, then it would have been appropriate..
Golvläggaren89: [citat] Ok! Thank you very much! That was basically all I needed to know! :)
Jonatan79: [citat] Even less because of the concrete roof ;)
bergquist: Hello About a year ago, we completed an extensive renovation of our house, and our original wish was to keep the old staircase, but we have now realized that it is too steep/narrow. Therefore, we want to start looking at what a new staircase might cost and how we can solve it without taking space from other areas. What I wish for is to find a staircase supplier who comes highly recommended and
Johan Gunverth: You can run the power supply to the LED strip behind the ceiling molding through the ceiling to the attic (looks like there's an attic hatch on the left) 🙂 Otherwise, you might be able to cut out the glass blocks and instead put up some simple shelves inside the bathroom
salcin_l: I am currently in the process of renovating an old barn intended to become a simple workshop, about 30 m2. Loose plaster has been chipped away and the floor has been dug out. The next step is to pour the floor and then fix the walls, hence my question: ✔️ What should I do with the walls - is it enough to replaster them or do I need to insulate, and if so, with what? The workshop will be
BirgitS: I perceive that the wall between the garage and the hall, as well as between the laundry room and boiler room, etc., is load-bearing because it is under the ridge. Typically, walls that run perpendicular are not load-bearing, especially with your description that it seems to have been installed later. However, it's likely that a part of the wall, about ½ - 1 m closest to the outer wall, is
FredrikR: [citat] No experience, but judging by the price it's probably not much quality, unfortunately. A Senco costs about four times as much in Sweden, but then it's quality and precision.