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HEM2121: [citat] That could probably work with bendable masonite board and then fill the gaps with suitable material? That's how I would do it if it was just the bend that needed to be evened out. [citat] That could probably work with bendable masonite board and then fill the gaps with suitable material? That's how I would do it if it was just the bend that needed to be evened out.
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Centano
Centano: Tear out all organic material, smooth the wall and paint with diffusion-open paint. Or you build a ventilated construction that can handle incoming moisture.
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Ulf1: Hello What connection should I use for the coil in the storage tank?
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Demmpa
Demmpa: That is a mollyplugg/metallexpander. http://www.husrenovering.eu/mollyplugg.htm https://www.biltema.se/bygg/fastelement/expanderskruvar/metallexpandersats-m4-70-st-2000047091 https://www.gelia.se/products/infastning/skivinfastning/metallexpander/4443637/
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Workingclasshero
Workingclasshero: Ahhhfyfaen for all the times the drywall screw did not sink into the OSB board....... It went better in the plywood boards, but OSB has so much glue in it that they don't sink in. /W
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Olf Oggler: That fiberglass-reinforced renovation wallpaper linked to earlier in the thread. Do you think it works to glue it directly onto OSB? Is it possible to achieve an okay wall surface that way?
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MathiasS
MathiasS: [citat] "Hard" but not hard like a concrete floor, right? If it's also brown under the paint then you can be sure it's masonite.
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Odi et Amo: Our blåbetong is a bit darker, but there were several variants
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Anonymiserad 170696: [citat] Of course, I don't want the house to move, that's why a beam must be placed under the wall, over the opening according to the engineer's instructions.
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Händige_Helge: These I think look exciting for a house like mine🤔 https://bauroc.se/product/bauroc-renove/
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Porsibygg: Hi, have the same machine. Tried brads from Jula/Bauhaus and never had a problem. Used pneumatic versions before and then Hikokis and am really satisfied with the Ryobis. Have a 2.0 ampere battery and what you describe is more like when the battery runs out.
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BirgitS
BirgitS: Whether or not using gypsum is appropriate depends on whether there's a risk of moisture entering through the walls. Considering that it was previously decided to paint or tile, it has likely been assessed that some moisture intrusion occurs. Moisture and the paper layer of a gypsum board are a combination that mold really likes. Having living rooms with painted walls is not unusual.
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Testarn: [citat] Well, I just meant that there might be too much ground pressure for a wall of lecablock, but the hole in the wall might not get ground pressure if a staircase is built in front where the structure of the staircase takes the ground pressure. We cast because we also cast a slab and stairs and did it at the same time. There are alternatives if you want to avoid a casting mold, and form
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zingo: I'm planning to start building the framework for a small barn that will be uninsulated. However, I won't be able to construct everything at once to get a protective roof up. Therefore, the framework will likely stand exposed for a couple of months and be subjected to the rest of the winter and possibly spring rain. Will it hold up until I can put the roof on?
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Dan M: It turned out like this, hope everything stays in place when I attach the sink! [bild]
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anders07
anders07: Where are all the källarnördar when you need them...? 😅
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bendu309: Hello! We live in a brick house from 1959 where most of the interior walls are made of particle board. In many of the joints where the boards meet, cracks appear, which I understand is common with particle board since the house moves a little. I have tried reinforcing with both paper tape and fiberglass tape, but sooner or later the cracks return. In renovated parts of the house, we have
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Karrock
Karrock: I got some autocorrection. It should be Finja and Benders :)
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tobbecokta: Agree with @Jonatan79, install ceiling gypsum. You can also check in the group https://www.facebook.com/groups/microcement there should be someone else who has done this before and maybe has advice or tips.
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AndreasLarsson89
AndreasLarsson89: Looks very airy. If there are no problems now, I would keep it. In the worst case, you'll have to tear it down later.
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Albans doktor: [citat] Yeah, if so, the only option is probably just to paint over the mess. Unless you want to involve the board/property owner to potentially get permission to dismantle something that's installed, but it's not very likely that such an intervention would be approved. However, if you have a good rapport with someone "in charge of the property," you can always broach the subject.
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Workingclasshero
Workingclasshero: Hi You can complement with a snow guard from the overlying roof, if that was what happened..... /W
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Anonymiserad 405730: When it comes to ceilings, there is often not full coverage behind the reed matting.. I have experienced reed matting directly on a brick wall as well, so there is no guarantee that wood is behind it..
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haxxen: I have a balcony with wooden beams with plywood on top and a waterproof membrane/mat of some sort, it's about 5-7 mm thick and likely has some oil content, I would guess. It has held up well for 15 years but needs to be replaced now due to mechanical damage. There are many different types of "rubber" mats. Can anyone suggest what might be best to lay as a new "mat"/waterproofing layer? It will be
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Småbrukaren: Searched with Google image search. The best results are accessories for Thule roof boxes or bike racks, clamps for drums, or awnings for caravans.
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myrstack: [citat] Yep! In my case VE Sten. Not cheap but not something they claim to be. In my case, the options were a bit limited since I started with a specific limestone in a hall and then continued with a bathroom where there was also supposed to be a baseboard in exactly the same limestone. The cheaper dealers were out since they couldn't custom-make the baseboard, and I had decided to spend my time
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13th Marine
13th Marine: [citat] Not according to the floor plan, I think it would have ruined the impression somewhat. Now, it's not a budget manufacturer, so it's not impossible that they use what should be a quite expensive steel beam up there.
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r91: [citat] Yes, we will leave it for now. Have taken down the other wall. Also tore down the tension paper in the living room. [bild] [bild] [bild] Just noticed that there's about 11 cm from the ceiling to the floor joist [bild] Got a bit tempted to saw down all the planks in the ceiling. It should be okay to put up new framing against the floor joist (and also have the opportunity to level the
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