Hello
I am currently working on a rough sketch for the greenhouse we are planning to build in a few months.
The idea is for it to be approximately 3x2.5 meters, with a combination of glass and fixed wall sections.
The foundation will consist of a cast footing, followed by lecablock that will be plastered, and a wooden structure for both walls and roof.
BUT, my question, which I've tried to find an answer to here but haven't quite succeeded:
How do I incorporate braces in the greenhouse without it looking unsightly? Of course, I can place them where the wall sections are, but these are no larger than about 100 cm each.
How is it solved in cases where, for example, it's prefab with only glass walls all around?
I am currently working on a rough sketch for the greenhouse we are planning to build in a few months.
The idea is for it to be approximately 3x2.5 meters, with a combination of glass and fixed wall sections.
The foundation will consist of a cast footing, followed by lecablock that will be plastered, and a wooden structure for both walls and roof.
BUT, my question, which I've tried to find an answer to here but haven't quite succeeded:
How do I incorporate braces in the greenhouse without it looking unsightly? Of course, I can place them where the wall sections are, but these are no larger than about 100 cm each.
How is it solved in cases where, for example, it's prefab with only glass walls all around?
It's a bit varied, but in simpler greenhouses with steel frames (aluminum?) I've seen wire running from the corners down towards the floor, and then the glass/plastic panels bear some of the load.B bergquist said:
In a wooden greenhouse that I've seen in a picture in a magazine, they placed wooden bracing inside the posts joined with "half-and-half" - it looked good as they had square glass panels that aligned with these dimensions.
If your wall sections are on all sides and of some height, it might be sufficient to place sheet material there to stiffen it up, provided it's not in an exposed location?
Thank you for the response, it's quite an exposed location as we live with open fields to the south facing area, but no shelter from either the east, west, or north.
On the long sides, there will be two 50 cm walls on each side that are full-length with inner paneling, and I can also put OSB if that helps.
On the short sides, there isn't very much space to place any wall, however, the triangle above the windows up to the ridge will be covered with paneling and no glass.
On the long sides, there will be two 50 cm walls on each side that are full-length with inner paneling, and I can also put OSB if that helps.
On the short sides, there isn't very much space to place any wall, however, the triangle above the windows up to the ridge will be covered with paneling and no glass.
Then maybe you should try to design the frame so that you can include some form of diagonal braces in the corners. At least on the gables it seems to be needed, but possibly also on the long sides.
Oh no, how wide does a crossbar need to be?
Would it be enough if you do the following
Long side:
50 cm wall, window, 50 cm wall, window, 50 cm wall, window, 50 cm wall = each wall has a crossbar
Short side:
50 cm wall, window, 50 cm wall
Would it be enough if you do the following
Long side:
50 cm wall, window, 50 cm wall, window, 50 cm wall, window, 50 cm wall = each wall has a crossbar
Short side:
50 cm wall, window, 50 cm wall
It's hard to say, the walls you have on the long sides might suffice if you have OSB or something similar that braces laterally, but I guess something more might be needed on the short sides. If you put a short piece of wall in each corner, that should be enough, maybe not even 50 cm is needed, 40 might suffice. It's about getting enough resistance so that it doesn't collapse.
Hmm worth testing, I'll put together a wall as big as the gable and see how strong it is, thanks for the tips!
It will be OSB and panel on the inside and just panel on the outside, then I can put shelves on the walls without worrying if there's something to attach to behind, except the flimsy panel.
Best investment when we completely renovated the house, OSB on all interior walls...
It will be OSB and panel on the inside and just panel on the outside, then I can put shelves on the walls without worrying if there's something to attach to behind, except the flimsy panel.
Best investment when we completely renovated the house, OSB on all interior walls...
Yes, OSB under gypsum/panel is a good thing - both for being able to screw things in where you want and to contribute to stability.
Regarding building a test wall, don't forget that it may seem stable at first, but weight high up (roof and snow) and wind loads affect stability more than you might think. After it has stood for a while and has "rocked" back and forth a bit, small "gaps" can occur in joints that further affect it. (otherwise, I'm all for doing tests
)
Regarding building a test wall, don't forget that it may seem stable at first, but weight high up (roof and snow) and wind loads affect stability more than you might think. After it has stood for a while and has "rocked" back and forth a bit, small "gaps" can occur in joints that further affect it. (otherwise, I'm all for doing tests
)Thanks for all the help "Testarn" but as you saw in another thread, the municipality has stopped our greenhouse because they imposed protection on the pond that we had the conservation agency construct on the village's farmland, the pond is meant to promote birdlife.T Testarn said:Yes, OSB under drywall/paneling is a good thing - both for being able to screw things up wherever you want and to contribute to stability.
Regarding building a test wall, don't forget that it may seem stable at first but weight high up (roof and snow) and wind loads affect stability more than you think. After it has stood for a while and has "swayed" a bit back and forth, some "looseness" in joints may occur that further affects it. (otherwise, I'm all for testing